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Transfer Switch Question-NASA-Space Weather

Stargeezer

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NASA is predicting all sorts of nasty CMT's and Sun related problems in the next few years as we move through a new Solar Cycle. Now like a total dumb sheep, I over-reacted a bit to Y2k . However, I sort of feel this time that it is more science than software hacks backing these claims. Global warming and massive Sun events? I don't know whom to believe. This time it is NASA; not Al Gore. I have a gut feeling we all need to take heed on this. We do still have time to prepare if we do something soon-if you buy any of this stuff.

Here is what the recent warnings are all about: http://science.nasa.gov/science-news/science-at-nasa/2006/10mar_stormwarning/

..and here is where you can check the Space Weather every day: http://spaceweather.com/


Anyways, I personally need to get some sort of backup generator-even if it isn't the end times like my whacko cult neighbors think it is.

So here is my specific predicament: We are very rural and prone to power outtages that last a while even during routine transformer repairs etc. Totaly grid-dependant for everything:

  • All Electric Home
    Deep Well 2HP Pump and 3/4 HP boost pump
    Electric Water heater
    Electric Furnace
    Electric Stove.
    Electric Drink Blender :spit:

To make matters interesting-the power comes into the back of the property and goes to a pole and a main breaker box. From there it is all underground: and gets split out 4-times: 1) 70 feet to the garage where there is a 100 AMP Breaker box, 2) 150 feet to the house where there is a 100 Amp Breaker box, 3) 90 feet to the Pumphouse where there is a 60 AMP panel and then 4) 10 feet to the pole Barn where there is another 60 AMP panel.

So how do I configure a standbye LP generator with ATS? Size it to run the whole shebang? That is a huge gen-right? 12 KW?? More? Very costly. Or should we just go conservatively and only cover the pump house so that at least we have water and a few outlets and some lights there? Guess we could cook on the BBQ and use a small Solar Panel to charge flashlights phones and batteries for radios etc. in that case. Gotta at least have water! I do have an insulated 1,500 gallon water storage tank in the system and could gravity feed from that to save juice too.

If these predictions and warnings are correct-you and I may be without the grid for months on end if the major transformers get smoked. So I was thinking about getting a LP generator and getting a 500 gallon LP tank dedicated to the gen. Should last 3-months or more.

Wish I could imagine how to get the transfer switch to feed, say, just the Pumps, the furnace and the fridge and microwave and a few lights. With all of these different sub-mains being 100's of feet apart-I don't see how to be selective on the circuits to activate from the main breaker box panel on the pole. It sure doesn't sound practicle to put in multiple LP tanks and smaller generators at different stations does it?

If anyone has sufferd through this mess of a post and has any idea what I'm asking help on- then please feel free to make some suggestions if you are familiar with setting up a system like this.

Thanks.
 
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Stargeezer

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This is all for the sake of space weather?

27001301-450x344.jpg


Solar Ma xThreat Map: If you are living in a red dot zone-then you are vulnerable to the 2012 sunspot threat.
Here is the short version: "The storms can interfere with global positioning systems, cable television, and communications between ground controllers and satellites and airplane pilots. Radio noise from solar storms disrupts cell phone service. Damage to power grids and other communications systems in a century-class solar storm, the National Academy of Sciences warns, could be catastrophic, causing twenty times more economic damage than Hurricane Katrina."

Well the threat of a few months without electricity in the next couple of years; a plus just being set-up to withstand a power outtage in general.

Drastic measures? Perhaps...

Smart to be prepared for any emergency? Good to have in your pocket..
 
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rodnok1

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My 12k Generac Lp standby is 50 amps max. No way is a 12k going to power everything. A dryer is 30 amp, water heaters are 50-60 if I remeber correctly, stove probably 30 amps. What amp circuit is your well/booster on? In time of needing heat I use a couple space heaters. We use the mocrowave, air conditioner(window), fridges, freezers, lights, tv's, pumps, etc. The big draw items like dyer and such are not hooked up to generator.
 

lametec

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Well, your total supplied wattage is 77kW. If you want to be able to power everything just as if you're on grid power, you'll want probably a minimum of 50kW generator.

But if you're planning on being out of power for 2 months or more, you'd better stockpile the fuel to run the generator.. lots of it. a 50kW diesel generator will down over 2 gallons an hour at 1/2 load, over 4 gallons at full load.

For 2 months at average 1/2 load, you're looking at almost 3000 gallons of diesel.
 

shotgunfatcat

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Good luck, I would buy coolers and batteries. If this happens you probably won't be able to get the good ol' petrol from the gas station. I suppose stocking up on fuel isn't a bad idea. it is just to bad that gas goes bad now a days.

In reality, running your well pump, at most is probably a 1/2 horse motor. I doubt you are going to be filling up your pool when this happens, a little honda generator would run that, but I would get a 5k-7k to run your house and run an extension cord to the pump house (don't worry about OSHA stopping by). That would cover just about any necessity you would need in your home.
 

kered

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I can't help but think of ........

"At midnight on the twelfth of August, a huge mass of luminous gas erupted from Mars and sped towards Earth. Across two hundred million miles of void, invisibly hurtling towards us, came the first of the missiles that were to bring so much calamity to Earth.

As I watched, there was another jet of gas. It was another missile, starting on its way. And that's how it was for the next ten nights. A flare, spurting out from Mars - bright green, drawing a green mist behind it - a beautiful, but somehow disturbing sight.

Ogilvy, the astronomer, assured me we were in no danger. He was convinced there could be no living thing on that remote, forbidding planet.

"The chances of anything coming from Mars are a million to one," he said.
"The chances of anything coming from Mars are a million to one - but still they come!"
 
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kbs2244

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First, all the load centers you listed are assuming full power draw all at the same time.
A not very likely situation.

Even inside the house you can pick and chose what loads will come on when just by unplugging them until needed.

Size your generator for the home and pump load and put in a shed at the pole.
You can build a switch panel that will allow you to power the other building when and if there is a need buy switching off the house and directing the power to the selected building.
In effect you are “unplugging” those buildings.
Those loads are very discretional.
You don’t have to supply the total possible draw all the time.

BTW, clothes line is cheap and doesn’t take any power except directly from the sun.
The dryer is the first thing I would unplug.
 

mrb

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First, all the load centers you listed are assuming full power draw all at the same time.
A not very likely situation.

Even inside the house you can pick and chose what loads will come on when just by unplugging them until needed.

Size your generator for the home and pump load and put in a shed at the pole.
You can build a switch panel that will allow you to power the other building when and if there is a need buy switching off the house and directing the power to the selected building.
In effect you are “unplugging” those buildings.
Those loads are very discretional.
You don’t have to supply the total possible draw all the time.

BTW, clothes line is cheap and doesn’t take any power except directly from the sun.
The dryer is the first thing I would unplug.

the transfer switch would have to be manual. With an ATS the generator has to be sized to match the connected load (not sure if automatic load shedding is ok or not)
 
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Stargeezer

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My 12k Generac Lp standby is 50 amps max. No way is a 12k going to power everything. A dryer is 30 amp, water heaters are 50-60 if I remeber correctly, stove probably 30 amps. What amp circuit is your well/booster on? In time of needing heat I use a couple space heaters. We use the mocrowave, air conditioner(window), fridges, freezers, lights, tv's, pumps, etc. The big draw items like dyer and such are not hooked up to generator.


Thanks for the info. How has your Generac LP generator been performing? Any issues? Would you buy one again?
 
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Stargeezer

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Well, your total supplied wattage is 77kW. If you want to be able to power everything just as if you're on grid power, you'll want probably a minimum of 50kW generator.

But if you're planning on being out of power for 2 months or more, you'd better stockpile the fuel to run the generator.. lots of it. a 50kW diesel generator will down over 2 gallons an hour at 1/2 load, over 4 gallons at full load.

For 2 months at average 1/2 load, you're looking at almost 3000 gallons of diesel.

Thanks..Yes I would not have to use the garage and pole barn sub-mains at all-just the Pumphouse/Well and the main house maybe. Still-It would consume a lot of fuel. When I listed LP Generator-I wasn't clear. Sorry. That is a Liquid Propane (LP) Generator and the fuel does not "spoil" and if a get a 500 gallon tank-it might last a few months if I were to be frugile with the generator use and had to go off-grid completely. After that-I'd be screwed.
 
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Stargeezer

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Good luck, I would buy coolers and batteries. If this happens you probably won't be able to get the good ol' petrol from the gas station. I suppose stocking up on fuel isn't a bad idea. it is just to bad that gas goes bad now a days.

In reality, running your well pump, at most is probably a 1/2 horse motor. I doubt you are going to be filling up your pool when this happens, a little honda generator would run that, but I would get a 5k-7k to run your house and run an extension cord to the pump house (don't worry about OSHA stopping by). That would cover just about any necessity you would need in your home.

The down-well subpump is 2HP. That fills the big tank. Then the booster pump, which is 3/4 hp-it charges the pressure bladder tanks and feeds from the tank. So they don't run at the same time.

Might make sense to get what you said-a 7KW just to run all of that water system.
 
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Stargeezer

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First, all the load centers you listed are assuming full power draw all at the same time.
A not very likely situation.

Even inside the house you can pick and chose what loads will come on when just by unplugging them until needed.

Size your generator for the home and pump load and put in a shed at the pole.
You can build a switch panel that will allow you to power the other building when and if there is a need buy switching off the house and directing the power to the selected building.
In effect you are “unplugging” those buildings.
Those loads are very discretional.
You don’t have to supply the total possible draw all the time.

BTW, clothes line is cheap and doesn’t take any power except directly from the sun.
The dryer is the first thing I would unplug.

Gotcha! Thanks. I am starting to understand this better. I certainly could kill the garage, the pole barn and garden shed sub-mains and just feed the Pumps and then the house. Then I could throw the breakers in the House to just run the essentials. The electric furnace has two side by side 60Amp breakers in it. Maybe with everything else off-we could fire it up-take the chill off and then isolate it again and go back to running lights and the modem.. Something like that.

Still-I'm looking at a large gen and big propane tank to feed it.
 
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Stargeezer

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the transfer switch would have to be manual. With an ATS the generator has to be sized to match the connected load (not sure if automatic load shedding is ok or not)

Thanks mrb.
BTW-Still loving the custom drop cord multi outlet box that you made for me a while back!

I was not sure if there needed to be a match. With a lot of these generators-they state in the specs that unless you use their specific TS, then the warranty is void. The bigger units all have ATS units with the "package" deal. Hopefully I would be able to find a compatible manual model TS if I use a generator which is not "load matched".

I did a little resarch today and a top of the line Onan 20KW LP gen, with 200 AMP ATS would set me back $14,000.00 plus I'd have to buy a 500 gallon tank ($900.00) and then fill it ($1,500). So I would be looking at spending $1,6500.00 (plus some labor) to get some emergency peace of mind. Wow..

and it looks like if I had a 20 KW system as described that I could last ~40 days running the gen at 1/2 load, 6 hours per day..on 500 gallons of LP.. I could maybe double that time if we went cave man..survival mode.

Thanks for your suggestion
 
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Stargeezer

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Here is the answer I got from generac: "the best way to do it would be to use one large generator with multiple transfer switches. "

had not thought of that..

Anyways..thanks for the input so far
 

VHF

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The electric furnace has two side by side 60Amp breakers in it. Maybe with everything else off-we could fire it up-take the chill off and then isolate it again and go back to running lights and the modem.. Something like that.

Still-I'm looking at a large gen and big propane tank to feed it.

You would need at least a 22KW generator--maybe larger--to run that electric furnace. Even if you got a large enough generator to handle the load, it would not be a very efficent way to convert propane to heat. Overall system efficency would be less than 30% (thermal efficency of an internal combustion engine) vs. the 93-96% effeciany from a modern condesning furnace. Your propane won't last very long using a generator to run electric heat.

Even without running electric heat, generator run time would need to be very carefuly managed if you want a 500 gallon supply to last more than a week or two.

If you are thinking of getting propane anyway for the generator, you should consider switching to a propane furnace. Depending on the price of propane, it could cut your energy bill over using electric for heating. In that case you might want to get a 1,000 gallon tank to serve both the furnace and the generator.

(Most propane suppliers will lease you the tank for a nominal fee, but then you are locked into buying propane from that one supplier. Some day I want to replace my leased 500 gallon tank with an owned underground 1,000 gallon tank, but that project is a ways off yet!)
 

HoosierBuddy

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I think your fears about solar activity having any impact on your electric utilities ability to deliver power is pretty sketchy. OK, to be honest, I think you're nuts.

BUT!!! That doesn't mean I think a backup generator is a silly idea. A lot of electric utilities aren't doing nearly as much tree trimming as they used to. That can mean a lot more damage during thunderstorms or ice storms. There have been many storm related outages around me that have left rural sections without power for several days.

I don't believe solar activity will make things worse, but I'd dearly love to have a standby backup generator. It's on my list too. Just not high enough to get funded at this point.

I know an electrician that specializes in installing backup generators and he does A LOT of business. I've seen many of these installed over the last couple of years. They are becoming quite common.

Phil
 
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kbs2244

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Here is the answer I got from generac: "the best way to do it would be to use one large generator with multiple transfer switches. "

Excuse me!!
Just what is it that they sell???

Do some research on the PV and windmill off grid guys that use batteries.
Some of them have come up with some neat power routing boxs where you can set priorities for each load.
It then switchs the supply however you programed it.
 
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Stargeezer

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I think your fears about solar activity having any impact on your electric utilities ability to deliver power is pretty sketchy. OK, to be honest, I think you're nuts.BUT!!! That doesn't mean I think a backup generator is a silly idea. Phil

I think my original intent was to bring to light to study and possibility of a major storm in Sun Cycle #24 and then to see if there are any practical ways to prepare.

For me-being all electric-I am vulnerable. Right now I am considering a med. sized propane generator and then a solar well pump that I can use to maintain my insulated water storage tank. My well serviceman suggests either putting the solar pump on-line only in an emergency-, or pulling the sub pump and physically tieing them both together so that they could both work without thrashing the other. Been thinking of replacing the down-well pump anyways.

Just studying the isses at hand and thanks for all of the great suggestions and the solid information. Figured I'd need a huge genset to run the electric furnace. 22KW was suggested with a 1000 gallon LP tank. Don't think I am up for a system that big.

Does anyone have experience converting a Honda gas gen to propane? I see that there are conversion kits sold. Troubles? Or solid performance?Thanks
 
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mrb

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i want to put in a manual transfer switch for my whole service and get a 45kw trailer mounted diesel gen (no room to permanantly install one) I could power a couple neighbors too (as long as they can get their hands on some diesel)
 
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Stargeezer

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i want to put in a manual transfer switch for my whole service and get a 45kw trailer mounted diesel gen (no room to permanantly install one) I could power a couple neighbors too (as long as they can get their hands on some diesel)

Those units are pricey! Saw one on-line the other day for over $100K! Wouldn't mind having one of those and a load of Diesel to go with it! That would certainly get you through a bind..
 

mrb

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Those units are pricey! Saw one on-line the other day for over $100K! Wouldn't mind having one of those and a load of Diesel to go with it! That would certainly get you through a bind..

thats insane. the ones im looking at are NOWHERE near 100k. that kind of money will get you a 120kw movie quiet generator. Those are so quiet you can be standing next to it when its running under full load and all you hear is a faint low hum
 
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Stargeezer

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thats insane. the ones im looking at are NOWHERE near 100k. that kind of money will get you a 120kw movie quiet generator. Those are so quiet you can be standing next to it when its running under full load and all you hear is a faint low hum

Speaking of Gens... What is your opinion on the grounding of portable Gensets? The Manual on a Honeywell HW7000EH that I am looking at specifically provides a ground lug and instructs you to ground it at the point of use. The neutral floats on these systems? Manual also says a normal circuit tester will indicate fault in a house hooked to a gen like this?

So...I looked it up and it seems to be a controversial topic on the net.

Ground them-or not ground them? I value your opinion. What do you say mrb??
 

kered

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Ezzie

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Here is a paper published by Schneider about this topic. It discussed the issue of floating or grounded neutrals on portable gen sets.

http://members.rennlist.org/warren/Gen_Panels_Appl_Note_EN.pdf

In summary, if you are going to connect it into your panel using a transfer switch, a portable gen set must have a floating neutral (isolated from the frame of the generator). The frame of the generator must be grounded at the service entrance ground. So for a single phase 110V/220V generator, you need a 4 wire cord to the transfer switch - L1, L2, N & Gnd. and bond the ground on the supply side of the panel.
 
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djb2

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I don't know why someone in Nevada would be that worried about solar flare activity.

The problem is with those big antennas uhmm powerlines strung across the country. Your local power grid might have some stability problems, but is likely to remain operational. And with plenty of power to spare since the first thing that will happen is an automated disconnect of California. (Now *they* will be completely screwed. NIMBY means "completely dependent on power from far away".

You would be wise to have enough generator power available to run a minimal water pump, and know where you would get the wire to rig it if needed. No need to install it now. No need to install a transfer switch. After all, if a crisis happens you won't be worried about the VCR flashing 12:00 and the interruption of that **** download. You'll have nothing else to do but switch the wiring manually while managing loads and fuel. Moving the refrigerator to the garage seems like a big deal now, but it will be trivial if something happens. And an extension cord running through a cracked window will look downright fashionable.

Don't overstock on fuel. There will be some fuel even in a bad crisis. You'll not be happy paying $10/gal, but that's just an extra reason to get a small, efficient generator.

If you do want to prepare, minimize the power usage of your core consumption. Change from incandescent to CF lamps in your main fixtures and install LED task lighting under the kitchen counters and in the workshop. Florescent tubes are slightly more efficient for area lighting, while LED excel at directional lighting. Buy a Kill-A-Watt and make certain that your refrigerator is efficient. Find a good cold-cycle laundry detergent that works with your local water.

And added bonus of this approach is you will be considered "green" instead of "wacko".
 
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Handyman163

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I'd be thinking a tractor in the 35-50 HP range and a PTO-driven generator to fit your needs. We were able to run a whole house off of a 35 horsepower tractor and a 25kW (60kW surge) generator, just not running the dryer or stove at the same time as the water heater, etc. Just control the throttle on the tractor to keep voltage right, and you'll be pretty versatile (and can use the tractor for other things). The 35 horse tractor running at ~1530 RPM for proper PTO speed would use about 8gal of Diesel in 24 hrs.

Most tractors achieve proper PTO speed around 2200-2400 RPM these days to better absorb loads which will help with fluctuating generator load, but will use a hell of a lot more fuel. The tractor we had it on was a early '60's (I believe) Massey Furgeson.

This was used most recently during Hurricane Gustav in late Sep. or Oct 2008 when power was off in most of Baton Rouge, LA for a period of 2 weeks (and diesel was near $4 per gallon). The pics show the setup - it's putting 240V to the house, and that's a heavy 120V extension cord coming off the back of the unit going to a neighbor's freezer. For those concerned, we did not back-feed the panel to power the whole house!

And when your furnace and/or water heater dies - go natural gas if you can.
 

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djb2

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I'd be thinking a tractor in the 35-50 HP range and a PTO-driven generator to fit your needs.

A friend is help design the power system for a remote California house, and they are taking the same approach. Except that the tractor-driven generator is the backup to the stationary backup generator.

The issue they have is that downed lines can take a week to be fixed, and they need power to run water pumps if there is a wildfire (which will likely take out the power line).

But for more typical circumstances, where you don't have a (second!) tractor available, a better solution is a small portable generator just large enough to power the critical loads "plus a blender.".
 
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Stargeezer

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Here is a paper published by Schneider about this topic. It discussed the issue of floating or grounded neutrals on portable gen sets.

http://members.rennlist.org/warren/Gen_Panels_Appl_Note_EN.pdf

In summary, if you are going to connect it into your panel using a transfer switch, a portable gen set must have a floating neutral (isolated from the frame of the generator). The frame of the generator must be grounded at the service entrance ground. So for a single phase 110V/220V generator, you need a 4 wire cord to the transfer switch - L1, L2, N & Gnd. and bond the ground on the supply side of the panel.

Great stuff.Thanks. printed out that File too.

I don't know why someone in Nevada would be that worried about solar flare activity.
Thanks..Some great advise in your above post. Yes even the vulnerable grid maps seem to exclude Nevada for the most part. I actually split my time between Los Angeles and Central Nevada- and don't want to be in LA if the systems takes a dirt nap.. Rather take my chances in Nevada. We are tyring to be practical and use CFL's etc. Like the idea of being set for the dark times without actually being all rigged. makes some sense. Hmmmm... Thinking::headscrat
I'd be thinking a tractor in the 35-50 HP range and a PTO-driven generator to fit your needs. We were able to run a whole house off of a 35 horsepower tractor and a 25kW (60kW surge) generator, just not running the dryer or stove at the same time as the water heater, etc. Just control the throttle on the tractor to keep voltage right, and you'll be pretty versatile (and can use the tractor for other things). The 35 horse tractor running at ~1530 RPM for proper PTO speed would use about 8gal of Diesel in 24 hrs..


Thanks for the info- I had not seriously considered a PTO Gen. Didn't even know how they worked. That said-I will now take that into consideration-as I just happen to have 2010 30 HP Diesel tractor with PTO! Hmmm... More thinking...


...And when your furnace and/or water heater dies - go natural gas if you can.

No Natural gas in the neighborhood! We are 26 miles from town-and 120 miles from nearest stoplight in fact. So we are rather rural. You can either be all electric, Electric and Propane, Electric and wood/coal, or solar/wind. Bought this place and it was all electric; since the owner worked for the power company..

..... a better solution is a small portable generator just large enough to power the critical loads "plus a blender.".

Thanks. That is where I may be headed.

It is hard to pick a gen though. I like the idea of a Honda engine. Costco sells a nice gas Honeywell Gen with a Honda Engine. Then you have to convert it to LP-and take a 10% power loss. Then we are at 5,000 feet above sea level-so another big hit to the power. Figuring a 20% de-rating right off the top. Then I have read that those who have converted to LP are having to manually choke the engines to get them started. I don't like the idea of that.

This is a very interesting topic and there is a hell of a lot to learn in order to do it right and have what you need to get you through as planned. The more I learn the more questions I have..

Didn't realize that the transfer switches had to be selected based upon the type of ground configuration of the generator. And the grounding seems like a touchy procedure-if done right. Have to know what you are doing there. I do have a competant industrial electrician to assist me. Then there are fuel consumption rates to consider, Fuel storage issues, which brand of gen to buy;how big to buy...Figuring out which circuits to power in a crisis and having it all rigged manual or auto. Man O' Man... this is a good excercise for the gray matter..

Appreciate the input-All
 
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Ezzie

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Location
Lake Chapala, Jalisco
You might also want to investigate a diesel powered portable generator which have been in the market now for a few years. These things will run a long time on a gal. of diesel fuel at a constant speed. I picked up a 6500W portable a couple of years ago and use it for portable power on job sites as well as for backup power and really love the unit. It uses a 13HP direct injected diesel (Yanmar style but Chinese made). In a blackout I have a manual 6 circuit transfer switch set up to power the 1/2 HP submersible well pump (220V) and various other 110V loads such as the forced air furnace motor (NG), tankless hot water (NG) and fridge/freezer. I live in a rural area as well and experience intermittent blackouts in both the winter (due to ice storms) as well as summer (overload of distribution system). I usually have a bit of diesel fuel around because of the pickup (F350) and tractors (backhoe, landscaping mower/snowblower). I live at around 1500' above sea level so not a problem but you might want to check how these would work at your elevation (not recommended over 3000').

The one I have is here:

http://www.auroragenerators.com/diesel-generators/6500-watt/
 
Last edited:

macrylinda

New member
Joined
Aug 6, 2010
Messages
1
Well, your total supplied wattage is 77kW. If you want to be able to power everything just as if you're on grid power, you'll want probably a minimum of 50kW generator.

But if you're planning on being out of power for 2 months or more, you'd better stockpile the fuel to run the generator.. lots of it. a 50kW diesel generator will down over 2 gallons an hour at 1/2 load, over 4 gallons at full load.

For 2 months at average 1/2 load, you're looking at almost 3000 gallons of diesel.

Good luck, I would buy coolers and batteries. If this happens you probably won't be able to get the good ol' petrol from the gas station. I suppose stocking up on fuel isn't a bad idea. it is just to bad that gas goes bad now a days.

In reality, running your well pump, at most is probably a 1/2 horse motor. I doubt you are going to be filling up your pool when this happens, a little honda generator would run that, but I would get a 5k-7k to run your house and run an extension cord to the pump house (don't worry about OSHA stopping by). That would cover just about any necessity you would need in your home.
 
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Stargeezer

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 12, 2009
Messages
347
Location
Central Nevada, USA
Good luck, I would buy coolers and batteries.
In reality, running your well pump, at most is probably a 1/2 horse motor.

I checked my down-well pump. It is 10 Amps (13 amps Startup), 2300 RPM and 2.0 HP.. It is set at 205 feet.

I think I might dedicate a gen & transfer box to it.
 
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