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Transition between Block Wall and Drywall

wishin4snow

New member
Joined
Aug 1, 2023
Messages
3
Hey guys,
My garage has a sill between the block foundation and the drywall. Right now there is some crappy board sitting on the sill but easily comes off. I was thinking of taking the old board off, spray foam the hollow blocks, and gluing on a new strip. Anyone have any better ideas? Please ignore the mess4f93d225-216b-4f5d-a0e5-3326405a4a1f.jpg
 
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billconner

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Jul 20, 2021
Messages
6,941
Location
Thousand Islands NYS
I don't know how you will use that "shelf" or place/hang things around it but you might consider a row of pavers or bricks. I think it would look good and obviously wear well, better than a painted wood.

I used a 2x8 as sill to cover it in new "barn".
 

Zeke

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Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Something that won't wick moisture whether it's present or not. You might consider using something that will bear some weight as well. I would use the space for shallow bin storage and/or shallow shelves. All shelves get filled at some point. I could use some.
 

no704

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Joined
Apr 27, 2016
Messages
5,207
Was placed to keep the drywall off the bricks👍 That’s good. Can be removed now that it’s screwed in. Whatever you do keep in mind not to let moisture wick into the drywall.
 

mrbill55

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Jun 23, 2016
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1,258
Location
Greenville, SC
Am I the only one thinking a proper parge coat of concrete on top and wrapped down the lower face to the floor?


Bill S.
 
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FordTruckWench

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Jan 8, 2015
Messages
539
Location
California
Am I the only one thinking a proper parge coat of concrete on top and wrapped down the lower face to the floor?

I'm thinking that the block cavities should be filled with concrete (i.e. grouted) with the top surface troweled smooth. Strong. Durable. No need to trust fasteners nor glue. If the OP doesn't want to buy/mix so much concrete, there are tricks to grout only the upper end of each column.
 

mrbill55

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Joined
Jun 23, 2016
Messages
1,258
Location
Greenville, SC
I'm thinking that the block cavities should be filled with concrete (i.e. grouted) with the top surface troweled smooth. Strong. Durable. No need to trust fasteners nor glue. If the OP doesn't want to buy/mix so much concrete, there are tricks to grout only the upper end of each column.
You and I are of the same "less is more" mindset. Plus, once it's done, it's solid, usable space once again.

Bill S.
 

Solpainter

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Joined
Oct 27, 2011
Messages
156
I had a similar situation. I filled the hollow interior spaces of the face brick with a vinyl concrete patching compound. I applied an adhesion bonding agent first and added some to the compound to thin it out. I applied it using a wide putty knife to get it smooth. I was able to sand it with a 60 grit paper, applied a second thin coat, sanded and painted with a grey latex paint. I applied the trim, caulked the edge and painted the trim with exterior latex semigloss. Painted the walls with eggshell latex. I am very pleased with the results.
 

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CraigStu

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May 22, 2014
Messages
4,017
Location
Blacksburg, Va
Solpainter did a beautiful job but it was a lot of work. Like Cobbler, I'd use a 1x piece of pvc trim board ripped to proper width (I'd overhang it 1/4-3/8inch) and installed w/ construction adhesive. Depending how many feet is needed overall I might rip boards out of a 4x8 sheet of 3/8 pvc.
 
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