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Transmission oil cooler

DXN1EL

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Feb 10, 2014
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Texas
Just another idea of mine. I looked at this thing and thought this might work.
It's rated to 175PSI
Its made out of 3/8" copper tubing with 5 passes so its highly unlikely to get cluged. I figured it just need to fabricate a shroud to attach a 16" electric radiator fans with a ground temperature switch.
What do you guys think?

 
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jack stand

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Feb 29, 2012
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Lakes Region Maine
Back in the late 90's Ford trucks with the 7.3 and that era a/t were junk. Long story short with a lot of experimenting with gauges & various coolers it was amazing how much cooler it ran with Amzoil. Iirc that was worth 60* alone.
Can't comment on the wood boiler coil but I don't see why it won't work, but if you're having transmission heat problems, try Amzoil. Possibly any synthetic will help, back then Amzoil was about the only game in town as far as synthetics go. 👍
 

Lou's Garage

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Anderson, SC
You might want to check your transmission specifications first. You mentioned that cooler is rated to 175 psi. In the past, I've researched a number of transmissions and the coolant line pressure was often in the 200 to 300 psi range max. I'm not sure a 175 psi rating is enough.

Lou Manglass
 
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DXN1EL

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My truck has the Vortec 8.1 5 speed Allison. The cooler inside the radiator is leaking, lucky i only got ATF in the coolant and not coolant in the ATF. A buddy of mine gave me a Hayden 1290 cooler that i mounted with two radiator fans but my temperature climbs to 195F on long stop and go trafic when the torque converter doesn't have time to stay locked.
 
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DXN1EL

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My budy gave a 34" radiator from a 6.0 that i want to install and do the Efan conversion
 

CraigStu

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My truck has the Vortec 8.1 5 speed Allison. The cooler inside the radiator is leaking, lucky i only got ATF in the coolant and not coolant in the ATF. A buddy of mine gave me a Hayden 1290 cooler that i mounted with two radiator fans but my temperature climbs to 195F on long stop and go trafic when the torque converter doesn't have time to stay locked.
Admittedly I haven't spent any time w/ auto trans coolers but engine oil temp of 195F is actually too cool. I just did a quick search and see recommendations ranging from 150 to 250 for ATF. It seems to vary by trans make/model/personal opinion. What is the standard for ATF for your trans?
 
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DXN1EL

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Admittedly I haven't spent any time w/ auto trans coolers but engine oil temp of 195F is actually too cool. I just did a quick search and see recommendations ranging from 150 to 250 for ATF. It seems to vary by trans make/model/personal opinion. What is the standard for ATF for your trans?
A transmission repair shop told me to try and keep it below 165F
 

racecougar

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My truck has the Vortec 8.1 5 speed Allison. The cooler inside the radiator is leaking, lucky i only got ATF in the coolant and not coolant in the ATF. A buddy of mine gave me a Hayden 1290 cooler that i mounted with two radiator fans but my temperature climbs to 195F on long stop and go trafic when the torque converter doesn't have time to stay locked.
Where did you mount the cooler, in what orientation, and with what fans? Is the transmission completely isolated from the exchanger in the radiator end tank now?
 

Busted_Knuckles

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Long manufacturing, makes the patented ( or at least I think it used to be ) stacked plate trans coolers, that the OEs used mostly on trucks.

B&M sells them in capacities of up to 30k. These things are near bullet proof ( for the intended application ) in comparison to the conventional tube and fin ( spelled fragile ) aftermarket coolers, ie Hayden. The Longs, also are rigid as all get out, with mounting flanges top and bottom, they DO NOT mount on the face of another cooler, which Ive always thought was a really bad idea...


Id not bother trying to re-invent the wheel.

I have an 01 PSD F250, with a cooler made for a 03' or later PSD ( about the size of the radiator ). I cant get my trans hot, or burn the fluid now, and my truck is pretty much a dedicated tow rig ( full disclosure, I installed a Tugger 2 shift kit at the same time ). I drive a silverado for a DD. I did bypass the radiator OE cooler. I bought the OE cooler for convenience, not durability. Id have used a Long, if Ford hadnt make a massive cooler for the Torq ****, like they did.
 

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jwilson645

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Alabama
I put this on my 6.0LS Chevy 2500 after we bought our bigger camper. My temps came down from 225 to barely reaching 180 towing. Easy install too, especially if you already had a cooler. I just replaced the tiny OEM cooler and the rubber lines.

 
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DXN1EL

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Texas
Where did you mount the cooler, in what orientation, and with what fans? Is the transmission completely isolated from the exchanger in the radiator end tank now?
Yes the transmission is completely insolated from the radiator.
The cooler is installed with the inlet and outlet pointing up and it's in front of the ac condenser monter as close to the grill as possible to allow the two fans to be monted behind the cooler as pullers.
This are the fans
 
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DXN1EL

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Long manufacturing, makes the patented ( or at least I think it used to be ) stacked plate trans coolers, that the OEs used mostly on trucks.

B&M sells them in capacities of up to 30k. These things are near bullet proof ( for the intended application ) in comparison to the conventional tube and fin ( spelled fragile ) aftermarket coolers, ie Hayden. The Longs, also are rigid as all get out, with mounting flanges top and bottom, they DO NOT mount on the face of another cooler, which Ive always thought was a really bad idea...


Id not bother trying to re-invent the wheel.

I have an 01 PSD F250, with a cooler made for a 03' or later PSD ( about the size of the radiator ). I cant get my trans hot, or burn the fluid now, and my truck is pretty much a dedicated tow rig ( full disclosure, I installed a Tugger 2 shift kit at the same time ). I drive a silverado for a DD. I did bypass the radiator OE cooler. I bought the OE cooler for convenience, not durability. Id have used a Long, if Ford hadnt make a massive cooler for the Torq ****, like they did.
Would this be the cooler? If so what size are the inlet and outlet?
 
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DXN1EL

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I put this on my 6.0LS Chevy 2500 after we bought our bigger camper. My temps came down from 225 to barely reaching 180 towing. Easy install too, especially if you already had a cooler. I just replaced the tiny OEM cooler and the rubber lines.

I bought one of those and i returned because the inlet and outlet are about 1/4" my truck has 5/8" lines
 

Busted_Knuckles

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Would this be the cooler? If so what size are the inlet and outlet?
Yes, but I have the OE, that Mishimoto is likely better quality,... honestly dont remember the size, seem to think I ran 3/8" hydraulic hose to the OE steel lines, with some kind of brass adapters to get to a barb fitting. I also installed one of them small inline filters, I just change it every year, which is likely crazy, I dont think I put 5k miles on it a year.

Looking at that Mishimoto it occurs to me, the unit I have is probably for a 2004 up S/D, and Mishimoto, is selling an upgraded replacement for 2003 down ( which is essentially what I did ). That unit may have different size fittings on it, to better suit the older trucks, but essentially that is exactly what mine looks like in size and mounting points, etc.

Its been too long for me to remember how big the OE cooler on my 2001 was, but seems to me the replacement has 4-6 times the surface area. It was crazy bigger.
 
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fitter30

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Peace Valley,mo
Go to a pick and pull junk yard found the size i was looking for trans fluid was red. Blew the fluid out piped it in. All $15 cooler and $15 for hoses and misc.
 
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DXN1EL

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Texas
Go to a pick and pull junk yard found the size i was looking for trans fluid was red. Blew the fluid out piped it in. All $15 cooler and $15 for hoses and misc.
Very few pick and pull yard left here, people dont have consideration for the next guy. They need a ECM they cut the cables, like what the hell? Can't they just unplug it. They need a piece from a door they destroy the whole door. They other places charge like 70% of what its worth new and you have to be there like 2hrs for them to remove the part.
 
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DXN1EL

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I was looking at this video
Think I am going to buy one of those or Two put them in series and maybe i can remove the one i have in front of the radiator.
They sell on Ebay for $85
 
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DXN1EL

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Yes, but I have the OE, that Mishimoto is likely better quality,... honestly dont remember the size, seem to think I ran 3/8" hydraulic hose to the OE steel lines, with some kind of brass adapters to get to a barb fitting. I also installed one of them small inline filters, I just change it every year, which is likely crazy, I dont think I put 5k miles on it a year.

Looking at that Mishimoto it occurs to me, the unit I have is probably for a 2004 up S/D, and Mishimoto, is selling an upgraded replacement for 2003 down ( which is essentially what I did ). That unit may have different size fittings on it, to better suit the older trucks, but essentially that is exactly what mine looks like in size and mounting points, etc.

Its been too long for me to remember how big the OE cooler on my 2001 was, but seems to me the replacement has 4-6 times the surface area. It was crazy bigger.
Looking around that Ford oil cooler has 1/2 barb fitting. This will be route i will be going. I have a set of Dorman dual radiator fans i belive they are 12s the Ford cooler is 33 rows 16" x 34" so this will work.
Thanks you for bringing that Ford oil cooler to my attention.
 

kbeefy

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The benefit of that Ford cooler is that its a bolt in for earlier (99-2003) superduties, not that it's that great of a cooler.
I have one on my 2000 superduty as well.

I would think the B&M referenced above would give better performance. Not sure what the Ford/Mishimoto 6.0 coolers are going for now days, but I believe I paid close to $200 for mine.

The only times my trans temps get above 180 is towing very slowly, like 1-2 gear.
 
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DXN1EL

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The benefit of that Ford cooler is that its a bolt in for earlier (99-2003) superduties, not that it's that great of a cooler.
I have one on my 2000 superduty as well.

I would think the B&M referenced above would give better performance. Not sure what the Ford/Mishimoto 6.0 coolers are going for now days, but I believe I paid close to $200 for mine.

The only times my trans temps get above 180 is towing very slowly, like 1-2 gear.
I will have to see how much are they asking for them in the junkyard.
It should be better than the 12" x24" copper tube and fin cooler i have now with two 7" fans
Plus i will put one of these
 

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1redTA

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I used the b&m on my 4l60 , in place of the tiny factory air cooler, with a 3000 stall. even during the summer pulling a uhaul with a rx7 and truck bed full of parts it would get to 180° In the city stop and go traffic in Mobile
 
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DXN1EL

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I used the b&m on my 4l60 , in place of the tiny factory air cooler, with a 3000 stall. even during the summer pulling a uhaul with a rx7 and truck bed full of parts it would get to 180° In the city stop and go traffic in Mobile
Did you bypassed the cooler inside the radiator?
 
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DXN1EL

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Called all the salvage yards in the area and no one had the Ford oil cooler. Amazon has the Dorman for $179 It should be here Monday.
 
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DXN1EL

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I got the Dorman oil cooler and is not 34" wide or at least the core isn't. The mounting tabs are 34"
The core is 22 something
 

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DXN1EL

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At least it came undamaged very well packaged
 

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DXN1EL

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The radiator fan assembly on the other hand came completely destroyed. Just look at this ****
 

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DXN1EL

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Just very poorly packaged it only came wrapped in Buble wrap one time thats it
 

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matt_i

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My experience has been this, I think I have a Hayden cooler with a fan, the core is something like 10x12. The asm and all parts came from Summit. I can't comment on temps as my transmission pan has been waiting since 2004 to get dropped so a fitting can be welded into it for the temp sender (!!) However I've done a few things towing where I probably should have melted the truck* down into the asphalt on the side of the road, yet despite its 34 year age, it continues to roll on iron-acquisition missions, I just drove it 400 miles last week to pick up a "new" tractor. I equate the relatively trouble free experience to the trans cooler amongst other more minor improvements.

The much larger consideration is how to mount the trans cooler so it will get airflow but doesn't get taken out by a racoon making a poor road crossing decision at zero dark thirty...or some other more solid roadside obstruction Getting the line routing so doesn't chafe on steering gear or other accessory drive stuff takes the most work. I would choose braided lines and the anodized AN (really JIC) fittings. I would carry a U-shaped tube to get you back home if the cooler had a puncture/leak or blowout.

*The truck - 1988 Chevy R30 "square body" pickup truck running on inefficient simplicity: 454 TBI and the Turbo 400. An ancient relative of yours.
 
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