Treading steel caster wheels. Help cutting rubber.

[CreteCoater]

OK so here is my ride on shot blaster that is in need of some love.

If you look at the wheels you can see they are steel. The old rubber got brittle and came off in chunks. I need some traction to drive into the trailer and a smoother ride.

After googling to find new wheels I see how expensive these bastards are. The two back ones are keyed drive wheels. The front isn't as expensive but I can still think of better things to spend money on.

I decided to see if there is any way of re treading what I have and after an hour in Lowes I came up with this.

I plan on cutting the rubber to size, epoxying it to the rim, and adding some steel pop rivets deep in the grooves.

Anyone have an idea how to cut the rubber in 3" strips cleanly without looking like a hack job? It is about 3/4" thick and made from recycled tires. Will a table saw work or will it bind the blade?


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[R.Anderson]

Odds are your fix won't hold with epoxy, the rubber will flex and the epoxy will not detaching the rubber. Look into maybe using a rubber cement.
As for cutting, easy. Use a straight edge and a utility knife on a piece of plywood with several passes scoring it, bend and that should do it. Using a table saw will most likely leave a rough ugly edge and stink like burning rubber. You may want to cut the mating edges at a 45 angle not 90 to avoid a bump.

 

[CreteCoater]

Good idea on the 45.

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[ilovevocs]

I would look for an adhesive more specific to you application. Something that comes to mind that is readily available is 3m super weather strip adhesive. Only way I know how to cut rubber cleanly is using heat. Know anyone with a tire groover?


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[Duke55]

I have cut 1" thick rubber blocks on my metal bandsaw and they turned out very good. I think cutting slow on table saw would work. Freezing the rubber first with likely help. I also think epoxy with pop rivets will do what you are wanting considering the old rubber was likely just bonded on.

 

[lukedwag]

I have cut lots of cow mats (3//4" rubber) on our band saw. It will cut lots of stuff, foam for seats, etc. Do some research on adhesive. Loctite makes some stuff that may work.

You will probably have better luck if you cut 4 rubber donuts and bond them togather. No seam should make it last longer. Plus you can downsize the inside hole and push it on with a shop press for tight fit.

 

[metaleltr]

I have cut thick rubber rollers with a miter saw. Table saw might work, but i wouldn't try it. I would use a bandsaw.

 

[Guster]

Second on straight edge with a utility knife using a fresh blade. I would clean the surfaces from what ever mold release was used(silicon or PVA products) I would also use a good brand high quality contact adhesive and perhaps even bevel the the edge to get a scarf joint rather than a **** joint sanding the overlap flush with a belt sander. I also like to have the edge overlap the side of the object and clean it up on the belt sander, giving it a slight bevel so it won't catch and lift on something.

 

[srmofo]

I have cut lots of cow mats (3//4" rubber) on our band saw. It will cut lots of stuff, foam for seats, etc. Do some research on adhesive. Loctite makes some stuff that may work.

You will probably have better luck if you cut 4 rubber donuts and bond them togather. No seam should make it last longer. Plus you can downsize the inside hole and push it on with a shop press for tight fit.

now that right there is an idea. I just cant see the rubber staying on long any other way if that machine any amount of weight to it.

 

[tarbellb]

I cut some rubber sheet (1/2") thick rolled up on a table saw, NOT a good idea.

Yes, it worked but it was very sketchy, the rubber likes to twist, binding the blade. And still smells like rubber years later.

I would recommend straight edge and razor.

 

[rsanter]

I think you are looking at a short term fix. You need to fine a seamless 'tire' to go on those wheels
If it was me I would look into using a tire. A small one like for hand truck or from a pnuematic caster. Look for one that the ID of the tire is as close to the OD of the wheel as you can find. Cut out the side wall and bond the tire to the rim. If you have a tire that is a little larger then you can use hard rubber stripping as a spacer and bond the whole works together

Bob

 

[kerrynzl]

Use "Simson" ISR 70-03 Urethane adhesive [ Simson is the correct spelling ]

Try and find a Solid Urethane or plastic tire of similar ID [ urethane can be machined out to the correct size ]

 

[wbrian63]

I'd look into having the tires redone by a place that works on forklift tires. Did this years ago while refurbing a 40's era forklift. The "tires" were solid metal hubs with a hard rubber compound that had been mostly worn down over the years and even had a couple of chunks missing out of the edges.

Don't think it was very much $, and there were no issues with bonding, etc.

 

[Steinmetz]

I'd look into having the tires redone by a place that works on forklift tires. Did this years ago while refurbing a 40's era forklift. The "tires" were solid metal hubs with a hard rubber compound that had been mostly worn down over the years and even had a couple of chunks missing out of the edges.

Don't think it was very much $, and there were no issues with bonding, etc.

Agree. This is the only way for the OP to achieve lasting satisfaction. I also had a forklift re-tired for a business I owned, and it wasn't much money. The wheels were about 16 in. diameter and 10 in. wide.

 

[CreteCoater]

Good ideas everyone. I will look into that option if my jerry rigging doesn't last through through the upcoming job haha. Will post pics when I'm back in town.


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[dbonne]

What about using some Tiger flex hose close to the OD of the wheels to cover them with? Or find some rubber casters at a salvage / surplus yard that will be close and adapt them.

 

[kbs2244]

If you end up doing it yourself you should bevel the ends of the strips wher they meet.
Place them so the overlap is "down hill" from the most common direction.

 

[Jack Olsen]

I would be very surprised by an adhesive holding up in that application. As a teenager, I worked in a company whose sole trick was to adhere rubber to steel (for machinery components). It wasn't a simple thing to accomplish.

With those wheels, my 'farmer fix' would probably involve some form of tape. Whether there's a strong, rubberized tape out there is something I don't know. But I would think multiple thin layers without a seam and with multiple layers of adhesive might make for something that would cushion the wheels and also have some chance of staying in place.

 

[CreteCoater]

Thanks Jack. I thought about the tape idea and I know I have seen it before. I looked everywhere I could think of locally to no avail.

Your right about the adhesive. I completed the front wheel and used steel rivets about every 2" around both sides of the "tread". The rivets are recessed 1/2 below the surface so hopefully they stay. The only benefit of the adhesive was keeping the rubber in place while I was drilling/riveting. I just used some of my epoxy crack filler for that since it was handy however will probably use spray adhesive on the last 2 so there is less mess. (The rivets are the only thing actually securing it anyway)

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[JonBoehman]

Would some type of keyed wheel and tire combo not work? Not sure what the drive shaft and keys are but those are widely available.
Something like this maybe???
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Misc-Tire-4...S_Outdoor_Power_Equipment&hash=item53fb3e0713

 

[Jack Olsen]

It reminds me of repairing the shoes in my old band saw. The easy trick was friction tape. A wider version of the same thing (with the right number of layers) might do the trick.

Edit: Wait, here's a product to consider:

Safe Way Traction 2" Black Rubberized Anti Slip Non Skid Safety Tape

 

[R.Anderson]

Thanks Jack. I thought about the tape idea and I know I have seen it before. I looked everywhere I could think of locally to no avail.

Your right about the adhesive. I completed the front wheel and used steel rivets about every 2" around both sides of the "tread". The rivets are recessed 1/2 below the surface so hopefully they stay. The only benefit of the adhesive was keeping the rubber in place while I was drilling/riveting. I just used some of my epoxy crack filler for that since it was handy however will probably use spray adhesive on the last 2 so there is less mess. (The rivets are the only thing actually securing it anyway)

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How did you end up cutting the rubber?

 

[CreteCoater]

Straight edge & a fresh blade. Had to take my time to not go off course but it did the job.

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[CreteCoater]

End result.....for now. The upcoming job will determine if I need a new plan of attack. I do plan on doubling the amount of rivets before mounting on the machine.

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[ilovevocs]

Turned out nice.


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[CreteCoater]

So far so good!

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[rodm1]

If it doesn't workout look into what they use for antique tractors to line there steel wheels.

http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10145

http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77167

 

[69supercj]

I was thinking of a solid chunk of rubber cut out smaller then the wheel diameter and then place the rubber on a exhaust pipe expander maching and stretch it enough to fit over your rim but your not using a solid chunk of rubber. Never mind. lol

 

[Strouty]

I had a lot of thoughts on this, but damn that came out nice! Hope it holds up, I would appreciate it if you update as to how it does work out. I could see using that as a fixe as well. The "tread" design looks great too.