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Treadmill motor

Playwme

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Because a pwm is a pwm. What do you think a dc speed controller is?

But then you need a housing for the board to keep out dust, you need either the treadmill control board or another potentiometer and wire it in. $20 gets you a nice single unit with basic wiring and saves a lot of hassle.
 
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69supercj

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So what would be the easiest way to wire this motor up to a vintage drill press? I'd prefer to not have that control board if possible, just the motor and a vairable speed switch if thats possible.
 

404

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So what would be the easiest way to wire this motor up to a vintage drill press? I'd prefer to not have that control board if possible, just the motor and a vairable speed switch if thats possible.


Big variac and a full wave bridge. RPM will vary with the load though, the motor driver compensates for most of that.

Don't think you will be happy with the result.
 

srmofo

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But then you need a housing for the board to keep out dust, you need either the treadmill control board or another potentiometer and wire it in. $20 gets you a nice single unit with basic wiring and saves a lot of hassle.

$20 might get you a 50 volt or 15 amp controller, but I dont think you will find a 90v 30 amp controller at that price. If you know of any please share.

Either way a project box that size $7~ and a pot is maybe .50. Maybe an hour putting it all together.
 

kbs2244

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When I converted my drill press I used a motor controller from Dart Controls off e-bay. Model 125D
I do not remember the cost but I think it was less than $20.00

www.dartcontrols.com

It comes as a bare board so I had to go to a Radio Shack (R.I.P.) for a “project box” to put it in.

I left the flywheel on and just added the belt pulley to the shaft.
It had plenty of length.

Instructables has a good write up on doing this.

"Use a Treadmill DC Drive Motor and PWM Speed Controller for powering tools
by rjeblogue on August 12, 2008"

You do lose some power at the real slow speeds, but over all I am glad I did it.
Much more convient than moving the belt from pulley groove to groove.
 

Rookie2

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ebay search: 90 vdc motor control

even a HO train transformer (with a lot of amps) will work, I also have a Dart controller on my DC drill press and I doubt you'll find one that is affordable.
 
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89GLH

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I used one with the potentiometer in a wheel polisher project, motor, rotary knob, and a hub. Makes polishing aluminum 100x easier. And safer, since Ive heard of people putting their car up on jack stands idling in gear to polish. No thanks.
 

404

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Interesting comment, would you mind elaborating a bit. To me a chopper supply is a switch mode supply, generally used as a constant voltage source.

These are SCR devices. Rectified AC goes in, out goes a segment of each sine wave. There is no capacitance. Current sine wave fragment out is provided 120 times a second.
 

Ed ke6bnl

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you guy got me to think about the treadmill motors I had and my $5 variable speed device I got at a garage sale. well the speed control put out DCV and I connected it to one of my treadmill motor and checked the speeds 0-4500 rpm worked great now a project for it. one was to be used as a wind generator when it hit a higher priority on project list.

just looked and my unit is a Dayton I believe sold by Graingers
 
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69supercj

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So all this electronics talk is great for someone who understands it. Bottom line is can I adapt this to a drill press and end up with a cigarette pack sized switch?
 
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R.Anderson

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You are not going to find what you need in cigarette pack size, it will be a little bigger you need to house the control board, power switch, and a potentiometer(speed adjust).

I like to use these for some of my projects but you still need a dc voltage source tho.
not 30amps but
6V-90V 15A
Ebay item#
331512857470
Here is one for 10-50V 40A not the full 90volts but may give you enough rpm to get what you want done. You need a dc voltage source with this one too.
Ebay item#
370962506627


Something like this is what you are going to want, 120VAC in with a DC output and easy to wire up. Three wires to a pot, two wires for the motor and two for the 120VAC.
ebay item#
131461939929
Theses have the right voltage but half the amps of the motor rating but this may work pending on your application (how much work the motor needs to do) On my mill the control board is under sized in amps and it does just fine for it.
 

srmofo

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An easy job and an hours time for someone like yourself who knows what they're doing. What about the guy who was going to wire up a lamp plug and test it on an AC outlet?

I don't buy that excuse. There is a wealth of knowledge at our finger tips, and with the help of members here to steer him and answer any questions it would be a great learning experience.

To the op, you can put the board in a larger enclosure tucked away close to the motor and have a matchbox size box to house the potentiometer wherever you want.
 

bubinga

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I don't buy that excuse. There is a wealth of knowledge at our finger tips, and with the help of members here to steer him and answer any questions it would be a great learning experience.

To the op, you can put the board in a larger enclosure tucked away close to the motor and have a matchbox size box to house the potentiometer wherever you want.
yeah, maybe house the Pot and the on off switch up front.
House the reverse switch too if you have one.
Don't really need reverse on a drill press, but maybe use-full for left handed drill bits.
You can use a plastic or metal electrical box, and use a piece of AL for the plate, or but a metal dummy plate and drill holes in it.

Myself and I am sure like srmofo above will help you with it.
There is not really a lot to it.
Pretty much L1 and L2 (marked on the board) are you power in. Fuse the Hot wire in, and put your switch after the fuse on the hot wire in(A/C wire)
P1 P2 and P3 are your 3 to the pot. P2 is the Center tap.
if you turn the pot clock wise, and it (the motor) speeds up, your good.
if it's backwards, reverse the outside wires to the pot.
A1 and A2 go to your motor. If it runs backwards, (Unplug your board first!).....................Switch the two wires going to the motor.
(Again, un-plug your board first)
Just be safe and always make sure your power is UNPLUGGED before changing or hooking up wires to or out of the board.
I understand this DC voltage can be deadly.
 

bubinga

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Check out this thread http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=159224 While they are bigger then a pack of cigs, the factory control boards don't require much electrical knowledge to wire up and make the motor work. The fun part is finding or making a pulley to fit onto the metric motor shaft for a reasonable amount of money.
True.
I got lucky and my motor mount was the same as a 56 frame motor.
Same as the OE drill press motor.
And an "off the shelf" 5/8 keyed pulley fit the shaft.
If you know someone with a metal lathe, they can bore out the pulley for you.
 

Hawk

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Not to change the subject, but I have a very good treadmill motor and control system. I am however trying to figure out how to change the pulley from a flat to a v pulley?
 

srmofo

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Not to change the subject, but I have a very good treadmill motor and control system. I am however trying to figure out how to change the pulley from a flat to a v pulley?

Most of the stock pulleys are reversed thread onto the shaft.

I've wanted to try spinning the motor up to speed cw under power and then switching the wires on the power source in an attempt to spin the flywheel off with physics.

I'm still not sure it's the best idea but it would be a slick way too get the pulleys off.

Other wise it becomes an issue of figuring out how to hold onto the shaft while wrenching on the pulley
 

Twisted Sid

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The reversing method has worked for me in the past on 3 different treadmill motors.

I forgot about it until just now but I saw a video (that I'm trying to find on youtube again but cant) but a guy took the motor and spun it up with the flywheel on and basically ground out the outer edge with an angle grinder to fit a vbelt into and made his own pulley. If you don't have access to a lathe, its an option. Was it perfect? Hell no, but it worked for what he was doing and I see no reason it wouldn't work for a drill press setup. Could also be done to the ribbed portion of the flywheel where the drive belt used to go too if your careful.
 

R.Anderson

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Most of the stock pulleys are reversed thread onto the shaft.

I've wanted to try spinning the motor up to speed cw under power and then switching the wires on the power source in an attempt to spin the flywheel off with physics.

I'm still not sure it's the best idea but it would be a slick way too get the pulleys off.

Other wise it becomes an issue of figuring out how to hold onto the shaft while wrenching on the pulley

It works rather well and it is kinda fun and a wee bit dangerous :D do it in the grass or over plywood or you chip concrete and aim it at something like blankets/tarps it can hit and not cause damage. Also do not reverse hookup the wires just short the motor wires together with the power supply disconnected from the motor and power source.
 
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bubinga

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there was a little bit of a threaded shaft sticking out from the tail end of one of mine, and I clamped it in a vise, and un screwed the flywheel.
It was not very tight, it came right off.
It was a lefty thread. So I turned it clock wise, looking down on it.
 

Hawk

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there was a little bit of a threaded shaft sticking out from the tail end of one of mine, and I clamped it in a vise, and un screwed the flywheel.
It was not very tight, it came right off.
It was a lefty thread. So I turned it clock wise, looking down on it.

Thanks I will see if mine has any thread sticking out past the fan blade to try this with.
 

Twisted Sid

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Here is a different video of a guy grinding his own pulley, sort of.
Not the one I was thinking of before but it still shows what he did.
 
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