Tree where my foundation needs to go -- Advice needed

[DOHC427]

I've got a 15 inch oak tree that's about 25 feet tall and it is where a corner of the foundation for my new garage will go.

I've talked to tree companies and all seem to offer the same thing...to cut it down and grind the stump. I don't want future problems with the slab.
What is the right way to do it?
Should I hire a geo engineer to inspect the foundation prep?

Thank you.

 

[ConCretin]

Ideally you want to remove any organic material under your foundation and slab. I'd have my excavator rip out the stump and as much of the root system as he can find and then compact the disturbed areas.

I wouldn't bother with an engineer. Excavate to undisturbed soils. If the subgrade gets disturbed a little, run a compactor over it. Try to keep the trench dry until you place concrete. If you anticipate water issues, over excavate 6" and add a layer of stone so you can pump out the water and work without churning up the sub grade.

Good luck with your project.

 

[ishiboo]

If there is nothing for it to hit, I'd fell it and offer the wood up for free with a liability release signed. Once the tree is gone, I would think that whoever is digging the foundation would dig the stump up in not much time, and once you're there they will know if there's any concerns with roots undermining the new foundation.

You don't have a location, how deep is this going? Is it a mono slab, frost wall?

 

[DOHC427]

Ideally you want to remove any organic material under your foundation and slab. I'd have my excavator rip out the stump and as much of the root system as he can find and then compact the disturbed areas.

I wouldn't bother with an engineer. Excavate to undisturbed soils. If the subgrade gets disturbed a little, run a compactor over it. Try to keep the trench dry until you place concrete. If you anticipate water issues, over excavate 6" and add a layer of stone so you can pump out the water and work without churning up the sub grade.

Good luck with your project.

Man,

What a great response. Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!

 

[MattN03]

I've had stumps ground and the ground always collapses as the roots decay. I'd get an excavator to dig out the stump and roots. Have your tree guy leave a 1' or 2' sticking out of the ground so the excavator can pry on it a little if necessary. That's how I do it with my Kubota backhoe and it makes it a little easier.

 

[larry_g]

The root ball is your problem. I had the same issue on my building and to get all the wood/root out of the ground left a crater t hat I could drive the bulldozer into. Then a lot of fill and compaction to get things back to grade again. If I had to do it over again I would move the building placement. I have a few cracks in the concrete, which I expected, that follow the the fill/undisturbed soil line. Understand this going in and you'll have no surprises.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[ScottsGT]

Yep, have it all pulled up an out of the ground. I had 3 Hickory trees in my front yard about that size 8-10 years ago cut down and stumps ground down. Every spring I have to add about 2" of sand when my grass starts turning green again.
EDIT: FYI, when it's cut down, leave about a 3' tall stump so there is leverage to pull on it to break the roots up and pull it out.

 

[EnduroRdr]

Ideally you want to remove any organic material under your foundation and slab. I'd have my excavator rip out the stump and as much of the root system as he can find and then compact the disturbed areas.

I wouldn't bother with an engineer. Excavate to undisturbed soils. If the subgrade gets disturbed a little, run a compactor over it. Try to keep the trench dry until you place concrete. If you anticipate water issues, over excavate 6" and add a layer of stone so you can pump out the water and work without churning up the sub grade.

Good luck with your project.

What he said! Yes good response.

Been there done that, had cracks in garage slab about 5 years after construction.

I removed the stump shavings only but should have dug out all loose dirt and roots then replaced with clay base and pack it in let it cure and pack again after a couple of weeks.
Live and learn!



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[rburke65]

Curious.....why leave only 2'....3' trunk for the excavator? Why not 6'....8'?

 

[strutaeng]

I had a 12" diameter live oak that I just cut for a house addition. I left it about 4' high trunk and plan to excavate/uproot it with an excavator when the time comes for construction excavation in a few months...

 

[OneOfEm]

I removed the root ball and roots from 36" and 26" Live Oaks. I dug them out with equipment and burned them over several months (away from the building area).

I backfilled in "lifts," compacting between each. There may be other ways to get back to stable ground to go under a foundation, but I don't know of it.

For me, it was either deal with the trees or do without a shop.

 

[Copymutt]

Been there, done that. Cut it down,dig out the roots, compact soil and proceed w/ your plan. Otherwise just take a look at city sidewalks near trees! Oak is tenacious at coming back from the roots.
Jim

 

[My Old Tools]

I had 5 large oaks (up to 24") removed to make room for my shop. They brought in a large track hoe with a thumb on it. The trees disappeared, roots and all. Any good foundation crew will know what to do.

 

[glentre]

Good compaction is the key as others have mentioned. Also, installing substantial rebar over the area where the tree and roots were removed before the concrete pour will help the slab from cracking in case the hole sinks in the future. Additional rebar in the footer if you have one would be added insurance.

Glen

 

[ddawg16]

What state are you in? Some states have rules about removing oaks.

 

[strutaeng]

What state are you in? Some states have rules about removing oaks.

He probably lives in America somewhere, LOL.

 

[KEH]

Re DDawg's post about laws protecting oak trees: I'm in SC where trees grow like weeds. Live Oaks are the only trees protected AfIK and they are only protected in some areas along the coast. Google "Angel Oak" which is thought to be 400 years old and the oldest
tree East on the Mississippi. Charleston does not want Live Oaks cut but there are exceptions, such as storm damaged trees. Live Oaks are the hardest of the oaks, have a unusual grain pattern which makes the wood look all twisted together, and make a dense shade.

KEH

 

[ScottsGT]

I remember back when they built the Mark Clark Expressway through Charleston they had to cut some down. They were sent to the Navy and used on the restoration of the USS Constitution they did back then.

 

[JamesW84]

They have a lot more leverage with the whole tree. If they have room to push the whole tree over, let them do that. They used a track loader to push over about 30 trees for my shop area. Roots still mostly attached to the tree. The trees are all laying out in the field with roots attached. I had a 28" oak and he almost laughed at me for calling it big. He said it wasn't that big of a deal.

 

[jives]

They have a lot more leverage with the whole tree. If they have room to push the whole tree over, let them do that. They used a track loader to push over about 30 trees for my shop area. Roots still mostly attached to the tree. The trees are all laying out in the field with roots attached. I had a 28" oak and he almost laughed at me for calling it big. He said it wasn't that big of a deal.

^^This

 

[machsnell]

Do what i am doing and move it!

When you do remove it make sure to grub the area with tooth bucket and chase the roots that are in your slab area. Most feeder roots will be in the top 2 feet.

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[wdrumheller]

I've got a 15 inch oak tree that's about 25 feet tall and it is where a corner of the foundation for my new garage will go.

I've talked to tree companies and all seem to offer the same thing...to cut it down and grind the stump. I don't want future problems with the slab.
What is the right way to do it?
Should I hire a geo engineer to inspect the foundation prep?

Thank you.

Kill / grind the tree. Plant two more trees after research about roots / foundations.

 

[welder4956]

Kill / grind the tree. Plant two more trees after research about roots / foundations.

So, if you go this route be aware that the portion of the stump that is left in the ground after grinding is going to eventually rot and leave a hole under your slab. Could crack the slab, could fill with moisture, freeze and swell. Not something I would want to be worrying about. But hey, this guy on the internet says it is OK.

 

[Jazz1]

There were 3 big willows on my garage site 20 years ago. Had a big hoe stop by for a hour to dig them right out. No issues ever

 

[bczygan]

Moving trees that size isn't very successful.

I would redesign the garage if possible.


Bill

 

[tinysparky]

I removed the root ball and roots from 36" and 26" Live Oaks. I dug them out with equipment and burned them over several months (away from the building area).

I backfilled in "lifts," compacting between each. There may be other ways to get back to stable ground to go under a foundation, but I don't know of it.

For me, it was either deal with the trees or do without a shop.

We just did this as well. 42 inch maple. Backhoe dug then used is dozer to push it over. We have good compacting soil so dit it in lifts + water.

House corner was on this spot. No issue after 6 months yet.

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[ez-duzit]

They have a lot more leverage with the whole tree. If they have room to push the whole tree over, let them do that...

This is what I've done. Knock the whole tree over and cut it up while it's laying on its side. Haul away the stump. Backfill and compact the hole.

 

[Stevenanto]

I had 5 large oaks (up to 24") removed to make room for my shop. They brought in a large track hoe with a thumb on it. The trees disappeared, roots and all. Any good foundation crew will know what to do.

I’m in the same boat for my foundation, my foundation guy, who is someone I trust a lot and has done other great work for me said not worry. Leave the stump, he will take care of it and remove the root system and low as four feet and compact existing materials and build up from there.

 

[DOHC427]

Do what i am doing and move it!

When you do remove it make sure to grub the area with tooth bucket and chase the roots that are in your slab area. Most feeder roots will be in the top 2 feet.

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That's very cool!
I tried to get the local tree farm to move it or take it and they said that it was too late in the season and it probably wouldn't survive. I have plenty of trees so this won't be too sad, but I do like nice trees.

 

[DOHC427]

They have a lot more leverage with the whole tree. If they have room to push the whole tree over, let them do that. They used a track loader to push over about 30 trees for my shop area. Roots still mostly attached to the tree. The trees are all laying out in the field with roots attached. I had a 28" oak and he almost laughed at me for calling it big. He said it wasn't that big of a deal.

It would be really cool to find someone to push it over. I easily have enough space to do that. My contractor is bringing someone out to look at it tomorrow, hope this is what they suggest...

 

[machsnell]

If it's only a 15 inch tree whatever they use to dig footings can dig out the stump whether it's a mini or a backhoe.

Since its only 25 feet tall you should be able to just drop it and dig out the stump.

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