Trim for drywall to block wall transition?

[rothwem]

My garage uses a stick built 2x4 frame set on top of a three course block wall. The wall is 8" thick and the stick built wall structure is 4" thick, so I've got a 4" wide block top sticking out from the wall along the perimeter of my garage. Any thoughts on how to make this look nicer? They filled the top course with concrete (grout?) to make a bond beam, but it doesn't look that great and is ugly. It also collects dust, and since I'm exercising in the garage fairly frequently, I'm on a mission to cut down on places for dust to collect.

My initial thought is maybe using some 1x4" wood and just screwing it to the block, but I think I'd like some kind of L-channel on there? Is there a baseboard product, maybe something rubber/vinyl that would work on there?

Here's a pic of my bike, you can see the top of the block wall behind it.

 

[duneslider]

Nice looking Epic.

You can get vinyl base to put on that will cover the gap at the bottom. There are a number of ways that people take care of the top and block but one I see a lot is smoothing it out with a patching cement and then putting epoxy or some other finish on it. My brother had his stem walls epoxied when they did his garage floor. Looks nice. I like ugly garages so mine looks like yours...I have enough bikes you can't see the joint anyway

 

[larry4406]

Build 4” deep shelves above to hold all your cans, nails, etc?

 

[Snakecharmer383]

Following

 

[rothwem]

Nice looking Epic.

You can get vinyl base to put on that will cover the gap at the bottom. There are a number of ways that people take care of the top and block but one I see a lot is smoothing it out with a patching cement and then putting epoxy or some other finish on it. My brother had his stem walls epoxied when they did his garage floor. Looks nice. I like ugly garages so mine looks like yours...I have enough bikes you can't see the joint anyway

Hm, I might try the patching cement on a small section to see how it looks. One of my issues is that the concrete that they filled the top course with is not perfectly level with the top of the block in all places, so the cement might not be flat. I might be able to get it *flat enough* to do an epoxy coat on.

 

[tarmy]

Where mine is raised like that I epoxy coated that area and the rest of the mud sill with what I was putting down on the garage floor. Then ad a baseboard if needed.

 

[olds70supreme]

Z-channel or flashing tucked up under or butted up to the drywall, w/ the other end hanging over the edge of the block?

 

[atch]

Build 4” deep shelves above to hold all your cans, nails, etc?

Ding ding ding. Winner; winner.

 

[pima67]

" not perfectly level with the top of the block in all places"
Masonry chisel and hammer will knock down the protruding parts. Then patching cement.

 

[RegeSullivan]

Get a couple bags of morter and finish them off how ever you want. I'd probably form a bevel because I hate that stuff starts to accumulate then multiply on any flat surfaces in my shop/garage.

 

[no704]

Fill to level. Then peal and stick vinyl tile. Or lay real tile if you are feeling froggy!

 

[Zeke]

A nice piece of vinyl trim laid on the block in adhesive would make a nice shelf. A small scotia molding under (apron to some) would finish the job. Don't want any overhang? Put the flat piece down flush with the edge of the block and backfill the crack uneven or not.

 

[jsigrist]

In my attached garage I covered that ledge with a piece of 1 x with a mitered top edge so I would not be able to line **** up along the top of the wall. With 8" block plus a brick veneer I had to use 1 x 10. In the workshop I just filled in with 2x material ripped to the correct width. Most of those walls are covered with shelving or benches.

 

[Viper98912]

I just put regular baseboard trim on the wall, sitting on top of the block edge. Looks nice.

 

[Black300zx]

I had a similar situation in my garage. I cut some 1x common boards to fit, tapcon'd them to the top of the blocks, added some 1/4 round, caulked and painted. My main goal was to cover up the void that bugs used to get into the house.

Sorry for the grime, my garage is well-used

 

[gahrajmahal]

I have the opposite challenge, so stand on your head and look at your photo. I have poured concrete walls and a drywall ceiling with a gap. They ran the wires to the house and garage on top of the concrete wall there, so at random places a wire would come down into the garage space. After several years of breezes going in and out of this gap I bought garage door SIDE weather strip trim and screwed it to the concrete walls with the flappy gasket facing up towards the drywall. Where a wire came from this chase into the garage space, I cut a slit in the rubber and then caulked it. A caulk edge along the trim board side sealed it up even better. Something like this…

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Metrie-PVC-2100-Garage-Door-Stop-7-16x1-7-8-F09/5013353107?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-mlw-_-ggl-_-LIA_MLW_122_Mouldings-Specialty-Millwork-_-5013353107-_-local-_-0-_-0&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_PXfsoWIhAMVimhHAR137AynEAQYASABEgIGCvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Dig Doug]

Any type of cap can be made…

sheet metal bent to fit - L or a Z
wood cap 2x or a 1x with a baseboard on the drywall
Lay a 4 inch brick cap on top use mortar leave a small gap between drywall and cap.
patch the top course so it’s smooth then use 4 inch cove rubber base, glued to the drywall

I think I would prime and paint the drywall prior to attaching any type of wall cap

 

[BombShelter]

Good luck, they all look the same to me, none have ever spoken to me and said, I look marvelous.

I love Moraccan Concrete, it can be hand shaped before it dries so you could do your own artsy transition. You could also find cap blocks, some may have a slant, to make it look more finished.

 

[CraigStu]

I'd do what Black300zx did except I'd PL Heavy Duty adhere the 1x to the block. I'd also, if possible, have the 1x overhang the block by maybe 1/2 inch which would mostly hide the inevitable slightly uneven gap. BTW I find PL Heavy Duty is slightly thicker than PL Premium so I use it 90% of the time. I did use the Premium to adhere two layers of 3/4 plywood together to make a door. There the thiness helps.