Trim repair question

[nonhog]

Looking at a bent/dented body side trim and am wondering the best way to
straighten it. I'm thinking make a form to hammer it into.
It would be pretty easy to mold a form out of Bondo? or some such thing.
As the trim is straight on 3/4 of its length.
Or if I could find a router bit the same shape?

How would you do it?

 

[dv8uagain]

This guy does a geed 3 part series if you want to take a look.

 

[nonhog]

This guy does a geed 3 part series if you want to take a look.

Thats a good video but very much the same as all the others I found on youtube. None address the bent/kinked molding.
Probably because most replace it.
I got it better but needs more time to be real nice. As is its a good driver piece.

 

[galexander2]

Try a press to push out the dent to the correct shape

 

[rodknocker]

You need to keep in mind where the metal has stretched, you can heat shrink it then re-buff it out.

 

[Jack Burton]

Very difficult to do which I guess is why you've gotten lackluster answers. I don't know **** but I can tell you the way I'd approach it if that piece was irreplaceable.

I'd take the outer profile and make a form out of hardwood. I'd make some profiled chisel forms out of hardwood as well to fit the inner profile. Have someone anneal it for you and then you can "bump" or even push it back into shape using the wood block backup and chisels just by running the chisel form back and forth while pushing on it. Sharp metal edges used as forming agents seem like a no-no here.

I suppose if you screw it up, you can always weld and reshape.

 

[Hammer1963]

I use Nylon tools that I have cut/ground/formed to match various contours of mouldings.

I start by cutting a groove/slot in a piece of hard wood that matches the correct shape of the part to be repair. I use a clamp system that does not damage the moulding to hold the part securely.

I then take the Nylon punches/chisels position them on the back side of the damaged area and tap them with a 4 oz. ball pein hammer to the correct profile. NOTE: Do not attempt to remove the damaged area to quickly. Lighter multiple blows are much more affective.

Once the piece is straightened to my satisfaction, I use a 220 grit stone and remove the remaining waves and imperfections. Switching to 400. 600 and 800 grit stones. I finish with 1000, 1500, 2000 and 2500 grit wet dry paper. I use a Kerosene/cutting oil mix as a lubricant for all stoning and sanding.

Use buffing wheels and the proper rouge to finish to desired sheen.

 

[MP&C]

In addition to some of the other tips, here's one thing I used when we repaired stainless on the Fairlane drag car (build thread):

These are for installing the splined cording for window screens. I held a 3" fine grit roloc against the wheel to get it spinning and flatten it out. Once modified, found it real useful in working out small dings on the stainless trim. Laid the trim on a shot bag, rolled the dings from the back side...