Triple wall HDPE pipe for under slab sewer main

[GSRinmyCRX]

I will be running the main sewer main for my house. it will be under my basement slab and I am trying to not have glued joints under the slab. They have this at home depot. we have used it for storm drainage but never sewer. Ideally I would like to use push joint sdr-35 but we are working on it tomorrow and I have not sourced any locally.

any thoughts?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-x-10-ft-Triplewall-Pipe-Solid-4550010/100135310

 

[Handyfarmer]

does it meet local plumbing code, and will it pass inspection, check with your local inspector,

 

[nh_yota]

You can't use that for DWV pipe.

 

[GSRinmyCRX]

i have been calling around this morning and found a supplier for sdr-35 and the cost is about equal to sch-40 so i will end up going that route.

Thanks.

Levi

 

[nh_yota]

Normally SDR-35 or HDPE pipe is only permitted for use outside the building such as the septic leach field or as perimeter/french drains. Using SDR-35 for the sewer main under the slab makes no sense because it's a thinner wall pipe than sched 40 PVC.

 

[GSRinmyCRX]

they install the stuff under roads I don't see why it would be in issue under a slab.

Levi

 

[GSRinmyCRX]

702.3 Building sewer pipe. Building sewer pipe shall conform to one of the standards listed in Table 702.3.

TABLE 702.3 BUILDING SEWER PIPE


MATERIAL STANDARD
Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS)
plastic pipe ASTM D 2661; ASTM D 2751; ASTM F 628
Asbestos-cement pipe ASTM C 428
Cast-iron pipe ASTM A 74; ASTM A 888; CISPI 301
Coextruded composite ABS DWV
Schedule 40 IPS pipe (solid) ASTM F 1488
Coextruded composite ABS DWV
Schedule 40 IPS pipe (cellular core) ASTM F 1488
Coextruded composite PVC DWV
Schedule 40 IPS pipe (solid) ASTM F 1488
Coextruded composite PVC DWV
Schedule 40 IPS pipe (cellular core) ASTM F 891;

ASTM F 1488
Coextruded composite PVC IPS-DR,
PS140, PS200, DWV ASTM F 1488
Coextruded composite ABS sewer and
drain DR-PS in PS35, PS50, PS100,
PS140, PS200 ASTM F 1488
Coextruded composite PVC sewer and
drain DR-PS in PS35, PS50, PS100,
PS140, PS200 ASTM F 1488
Coextruded PVC sewer and drain PS25,
PS50, PS100 (cellular core) ASTM F 891
Concrete pipe ASTM C14;
ASTM C76;
CSA A257.1M;
CSA A257.2M
Copper or copper-alloy tubing
(Type K or L) ASTM B 75;
ASTM B 88;
ASTM B 251
Polyethylene (PE) plastic pipe (SDR-PR) ASTM F 714
Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) plastic pipe
(Type DWV, SDR26, SDR35, SDR41,
PS50 or PS100) ASTM D 2665;
ASTM D 2949;
ASTM D 3034;
CSA B182.2;
CSA B182.4
Stainless steel drainage systems,
Types 304 and 316L ASME A112.3.1
Vitrified clay pipe ASTM C 4;
ASTM C 700

 

[SJR033]

I work for an underground pipe supplier. We carry SDR35, SCH40, triple wall and many others. We only sell the triple wall for leach fields and the rare roof drains. Yes, SDR35 is used up & down the street and stubbed to the property line. But, anything under a building is SCH40 (per our plumbing code)

Note: The "Building sewer pipe" chart would be the for the service TO the building. Under the building should be a different chart.

Just use the SCH40 and glue it. Every other building is the same. Why are you against a glue joint? A properly glued joint will be stronger than the pipe itself.

 

[GSRinmyCRX]

I spent my lunch break researching though our New York codes and you are correct. I plan to bed the pipe properly so the joints shouldn't be an issue. I guess I am just worrying about everything at this point, we are building this house on our own and although we have remodeled a number of houses over the years this is my first one from scratch.
A gasketed joint would give much more flexibility than a glued joint and I am focusing on that.

Thanks guys.

Levi

 

[simpler=better]

I spent my lunch break researching though our New York codes and you are correct. I plan to bed the pipe properly so the joints shouldn't be an issue. I guess I am just worrying about everything at this point, we are building this house on our own and although we have remodeled a number of houses over the years this is my first one from scratch.
A gasketed joint would give much more flexibility than a glued joint and I am focusing on that.

Thanks guys.

Levi

Deep breath, you've got it in the bag. Bed it properly so that nothing will move when backfilled, and you're golden.

 

[HemiRamOn22s]

HDPE/ADS make a pipe called San-tite which is both soil and water tight using double gaskets. Never used it but i would just stick with sch 35.

 

[SJR033]

HDPE/ADS make a pipe called San-tite which is both soil and water tight using double gaskets. Never used it but i would just stick with sch 35.

ADS's SaniTite pipe starts at 12" and goes up. For the love of everything, I hope that he doesn't need 12" sewer pipe out of a house.

 

[HemiRamOn22s]

ADS's SaniTite pipe starts at 12" and goes up. For the love of everything, I hope that he doesn't need 12" sewer pipe out of a house.

I never looked into what sizes it was available in just knew they made it for gravity sewers. They make another pipe thats used for drain fields as well.

 

[SJR033]

I never looked into what sizes it was available in just knew they made it for gravity sewers. They make another pipe thats used for drain fields as well.

The drain field pipe you speak of is the "triple wall" that the op was looking at. It's white on the outside and black on the inside.

 

[pstnbly]

Why would you not want solvent weld joints under your slab? This is common practice. I would prefer it over slip joint or ring tite. You can eliminate 50% of the joints by using bell end sch 40. Bell ends also are twice the area of a coupling.

 

[augustus]

I can relate to where the OP is coming from, sometimes I get down a certain path in my mind wanting to do the absolute best thing possible in a given situation, puts me into analysis paralysis. I'll add that since I had to bust up my basement slab to replace the old poop pipe which was COMPLETELY gone, I'm sensitive to the possibility of failure in this area, and I replaced it with the usual glued sch40 pvc pipe, and feel good about it. Good luck!

 

[GSRinmyCRX]

I can relate to where the OP is coming from, sometimes I get down a certain path in my mind wanting to do the absolute best thing possible in a given situation, puts me into analysis paralysis. I'll add that since I had to bust up my basement slab to replace the old poop pipe which was COMPLETELY gone, I'm sensitive to the possibility of failure in this area, and I replaced it with the usual glued sch40 pvc pipe, and feel good about it. Good luck!

"analysis paralysis" explains my situation perfectly. I ended up with SCH-40 bedded with 1a stone that I had left over from my superior walls footing. we got it all leveled and tamped in solid Saturday and I was very happy with it. unfortunately had a very big storm yesterday and washed a lot of the stone out. typical of how things have gone for us so far.

thanks for all your input GJ.

Levi

 

[59 wagon man]

I WOULD NEVER USE sdr 35 anywhere on my personal home plumbing system.i have replaced too much of it oval shaped after collapsing under a driveway.sch 40 glued joints using primer NOT cleaner would be the way to go for underground anything above ground would be no hub cast iron pipe if i had a 2nd floor

 

[SJR033]

I WOULD NEVER USE sdr 35 anywhere on my personal home plumbing system.i have replaced too much of it oval shaped after collapsing under a driveway.sch 40 glued joints using primer NOT cleaner would be the way to go for underground anything above ground would be no hub cast iron pipe if i had a 2nd floor

All different types of pipe have their place to be used. Under a driveway, should be fine for sdr35, assuming it is installed correctly. (depth/backfill etc). Just like anything to often we blame the product for failures when it was the installer/user. At the same time, as a member here, I support the over building of everything.

 

[aircommuter]

Sdr19 is the thicker variety for underground sewers. The smaller the number the thicker the wall. SDR pipes get thicker with diameter. Size Dimension Ratio the wall thickness is 1/35 of the diameter for sdr35, 1/19 the diameter for sdr19. Now you can figure the wall thickness.
Many municipal sewer districts require ring-tite joints for expansion and contraction. I have installed miles of sdr 35 and 19 in streets with no failures. The method is 4" of sand under the pipe and 4 times the pipe diameter of sand over the pipe then water and compact then you can add the additional back fill required for your application. Where sand is plentiful we found it cheaper than native soil for streets where 95% RP compaction is required, because sand can take and mix with water, without having to mechanically mix it. Plus it will compact in thicker lifts.

 

[SJR033]

That was my point. Given that sdr35 is used under roadways, under a driveway is no big deal. Given it is installed correctly. More than likely 59's driveway failure was from poor install and not from the product.