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Triumph c7000 pad install questions

tonydanzah

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So I pulled the trigger on a triumph c7000. I know I'm going to have to cut into my old pad and pour some new spots. Debating between underpinning, side drilling the pad and connecting with rebar or digging a deep hole and making a new freestanding pylon.
 
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JohnnyK8

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I have a C7000.

I dug down about 10-12 inches after cutting a 4x4 hole (or for each post) After the hole was cut I keyed under the existing slab another 6-8 inches (bases of new pours are about 5x5) and then put my rebar UNDER the existing slab. My floor was 3-4" and it is drilled and sunk the rebar in that it might have cracked...
I set the rebar on some little plastic rebar chaise to keep it off the ground when pouring my 4000 psi concrete.

Works like a charm now.

If you search for C7000 videos on YouTube you'll find mine. My son and I filmed a demonstration. Plus some installation stuff.

Have fun


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tonydanzah

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I have a C7000.

I dug down about 10-12 inches after cutting a 4x4 hole (or for each post) After the hole was cut I keyed under the existing slab another 6-8 inches (bases of new pours are about 5x5) and then put my rebar UNDER the existing slab. My floor was 3-4" and it is drilled and sunk the rebar in that it might have cracked...
I set the rebar on some little plastic rebar chaise to keep it off the ground when pouring my 4000 psi concrete.

Works like a charm now.

If you search for C7000 videos on YouTube you'll find mine. My son and I filmed a demonstration. Plus some installation stuff.

Have fun


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I actually watched your video. I see you have similar winters, that was really my concern. I have a buddy is Missouri that installed in at his house. He underpinned also, no additional reinforcement and did a 3x3x10" pad. I'm doing the pad due to the foot placement to my pad seam. I will add rollers to the post in the middle of the garage to move across the to the other side when not in use. I also plan on having two different width bolt hole patterns as i know i will occasionally need the width. Overall are you happy with it, wish you could go higher? I originally almost did the maxjax, but 48" isn't high enough make it worth it for me.
 

JohnnyK8

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The process I followed was a combination of Greg Smith's instructions and Mohawk's. In your situation with multiple sets of holes I would go with larger than 3x3 to stay away from the edges. Rebar is also super cheap.

I am thrilled with it! My car can be lifted plenty high and sitting under it with a stool is like heaven compared to laying on your back. My Bronco is a big ******* and the only real way to lift it at all is with a hoist like this. Otherwise I would have to use a jack with tons of treated lumber but then I'd need huge jackstands. The truck also goes plenty high. NO REGRETS.
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The extra advantage here rather than max height is the increased number of stops vs the max jax. The MJ only has 3 positions (maybe the new one is different) whereas the C7000 has one every few inches.

You will be happy with it. Careful with the anchor placement and drilling. I used epoxy anchors from wedjit.

Having a removable post is so sweet. I moved one of mine a few weeks ago so I could reposition my truck in the shop to painting it. Never can do that with a traditional lift.
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tonydanzah

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I'll have to check those anchors out. I drilled a test hole in my pad i'm be lucky, the spot i checked was 6" thick which i suppose might be correct how old the house is.
 
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keen

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Sep 12, 2010
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geneva, fl
So I pulled the trigger on a triumph c7000. I know I'm going to have to cut into my old pad and pour some new spots. Debating between underpinning, side drilling the pad and connecting with rebar or digging a deep hole and making a new freestanding pylon.


first: why? what do you know about your current slab that suggests it's inadequate? might be worth drilling some sample holes and possibly getting it tested - a few hundred bucks vs all of the work of ripping it out and pouring new.


for a 7k lift, (indeed, 9-10k too), a reinforced 4" slab in good condition is generally considered fine. the triumph is no different in that regard.


if you still need to - when I looked into doing this, I found this was a typical recommendation - note this is for a standalone slab-free install, which is how I'd treat it if I couldn't trust my floor, personally.

Q: How large "stand alone" concrete pad is needed for an
outdoor lift?

A: 2-post lift:
The concrete should be twice the required thickness of a "normal" concrete
floor for the lift's weight capacity. The "slab" should extend at least 24
inches past the outside of each column (side to side) and one foot (front
to back) longer than the end of the extended lift arms when moved to their
"fully extended" position.




I've seen similar recommendations with smaller footprints to be "keyed" under the existing slab, so you basically pour a wedge shape under the current slab. you could drill into the existing slab and use rebar - but I'd rather key it under, myself.

if you are unsure of the thickness and PSI of your concrete and want to
install a 2 or 4 post lift you should pour concrete pads. The
basic rule is that you need the pads to be 12" wider on each side from the base plates of the lift. For a 2 post, you'll need to go down at least 2 feet.
For a 4 post, you'll need to go down at least 6" New concrete must also
cure at least 28 days.



most slab thickness recommendations tend to run around this area - thicker for lower psi concrete:
* 7,000-10,000lb Two Post Car Lift 4" min. 3000 PSI concrete
* 12,000-18,000lb Two Post Car Lift 6" min. 3000 PSI concrete
* 7,000-40,000lb Four Post Car Lift 4" min. 3000 PSI concrete
 

scooter k

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Joined
May 20, 2017
Messages
11
I've been looking at getting one of these lifts for my garage. How's the overall construction of the hoist? Is it made well?
 

JohnnyK8

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