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Trouble with Tapcons - Any Advice?

MrMark

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I had a bit of trouble getting one of them to go all the way down. It then broke off. This is to attach an interior wall sole plate. I don't want to use powder actuated nails, although I have them.

I have read all kinds of conflicting advice on how to drive them, ranging from by hand, to impact driver, to hammer drill. The hammer drill as the driver makes precious little sense to me, however, maybe it is right.

Any tips and tricks?
 
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shannonw

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Florida
Hi, unfortunately i don't have great advice, i have a concrete block house and used to use tapcons and always seemed to have problems, hand, hammer drill, you really have to use the recommended pre-drill bit size...but even then 85% time it would work then i'd break one off...i'm sure someone else knows the secret.

I use the redhead wedge type anchors for just about everything now...bigger hole but just less trouble to me.
 

luvit

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i've used tapcons a million times and love them.
though, i had many failures before i leaned to love them.

typically when i fail to get the screw all the way down it is one of two things.

horizontal holes:
1. i didn't clean-out the pre-drilled hole well enough to where mason dust interferes with the threads.
2. i didn't drill deep enough -- drilling an extra half inch or full inch can allow that dust to move back (after cleaning/blowingout the hole.

you may have checked this, but make sure your bit is the correct size for the tapcons.

i should have added:
i turn them in by hand
i use my cordless drill (not a hammer drill) if i don't care

another tip for my other posts, i use the tapcon bit to auger-out the dust, it may make the hole a hair larger, but it won't hurt.. augering reduces the blowing/vacuuming & helps to get that hole clean.
.
 
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DIC

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You need to drill a hole with a hammer drill, vacuum out the hole then screw in Tapcon in with a drill with driver attachment
 

eric_koski

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Add a little wax to the thread before installing. Had good luck with cr Laurence screw wax but beeswax or parafin would work also
 

DHCrocks

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as others mentioned clean out the hole. Use a shop vac or better yet, blow it out with your compressor. What is happening is that the dust in the hole is bottoming out the tapcon so it wont seat all the way in.
 

2chipped

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I use tapcons weekly.
My tips#1 overdrill by a third (example, if using a 2 in tapcon drill 3 in deep)
#2 always vacuum blind vertical holes.
#3 my preferences are redheads, then hexhead, and as few philips as possible.
#4 use an impact driver,start slow .....if it stops before making contact wi bracket...reverse and vacuum again.
#5 I use only Bosch brand bits(a pack of 5 can be had for$15 @ the depot.
 

thooks

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Use the proper size bit. Drill the hole deeper than the screw. I wouldn't break out the Dyson to vac out the hole, just drill deeper...

Those things (size of bit and deep hole) are the important things.

Then drive the screw down with a regular cordless drill, impact, your teef, whatever.
 

baartman

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I've had issues before, when using long 5/32" hammer drill bits for the tapcons, where the bit actually bends and drills a slight banana shaped hole. This usually happens when I push too hard on the drill, or when I'm holding the drill awkwardly. This causes the hole to seem deep enough, but the tapcon can't bend around the hole, stopping short.

I always try to use the thicker tapcons, where a 3/16" bit is needed, and I bought an SDS rotary hammer drill.

I use an impact driver to install them, but I find the impact to shear the heads off the thinner tapcons easily...

I only vacuum the hole when drilling into the ground, otherwise I'll just use the drill to clean the hole, by inserting the bit at full speed in and out the drilled hole.
 
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rlitman

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I've had issues before, when using long 5/32" hammer drill bits for the tapcons, where the bit actually bends and drills a slight banana shaped hole.

I know exactly what you mean. Why don't they sell a short 5/32" bit for tapcons, that fits an SDS?
 

KenC

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I'll jump on the drill deeper bandwagon. And, Offer a little in the way of explanation.
When running the Tapcon in, it is cutting threads, thus making more dust which falls to the bottom of the hole or binds in the threads, neither is good. So, the longer the Tapcon, the more I overdrill the hole.
 

Scott65

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Green Bay, WI
I have only had trouble with the smaller diameter ones. I also agree with over drilling by about 1/3 and using a hammer drill. For putting in a plate, you cannot beat the speed and efficiency of a powder actuated nailer.
 

DCarr

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May 2, 2008
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I guess I got lucky. I have installed 100 or more ( more ) around the exterior of my shop to fasten the sheet siding to the block footer along with the mouse guard flashing that goes along the bottom of the metal and didnt break any. Installed everyone of them with my cordless drill. All were horizonatl, all were drilled all the way through the block and none were vacuumed out or was any sort of wax used.

edit: Some were drilled all the in concrete, in the blocks that were filled to hold the J bolts for the bttom plate.

Just the drill that came w/ the box of screws and a hammer drill to use that.
 
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shamrock12

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South Dakota
As an electrician, I have installed thousands of them and have broken a handful. What I have learned is that the common reason for this failure is the hardness of concrete. Some of them are so hard that screws were having tough time cutting thread through the concrete and as they become worn, they just snag and with the heat from friction, they would snap off easier. It doesn't help when dust accumulates between threads as you drive through. If I start feeling resistance, I would stop, back out and blow out the dust and then try again. When dealing with very hard concrete, I often would toss out the screws after initial "pass" that did not go all the way through because the thread get worn down very quickly and won't bite any further. Yes it does **** throwing out some of them but sometime you can't help it.

Of course, using smaller than recommended drill bit or by not drilling deep enough can cause breakage too, but I would assume you have already thought of those.
 

kippieland

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I use tapcons weekly.
My tips#1 overdrill by a third (example, if using a 2 in tapcon drill 3 in deep)
#2 always vacuum blind vertical holes.
#3 my preferences are redheads, then hexhead, and as few philips as possible.
#4 use an impact driver,start slow .....if it stops before making contact wi bracket...reverse and vacuum again.
#5 I use only Bosch brand bits(a pack of 5 can be had for$15 @ the depot.

+2 for all his advise!
 

Doug B

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Schroon Lake, NY
Make sure you are using the correct length Tapcon. Don't use a 3" screw to fasten steel stud track to the floor.Too long a screw will create too much friction in the hole,no matter how far you over drill or clear dust,causing it to shear off. Depending on the situation,concrete condition,etc. , I usually use a screw about 1" longer than the thickness of whatever I am fastening.
 
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shoot summ

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I used to have issues with them as well.

Drill deeper, and I have had no issues since I have been using a hammer drill.
 

dirttracker18

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Slate River, ON
Same here,

Drill deeper, I often use the bit that came with the tapcons but I insert it shallow in the drill and bottom out when drilling.

I have found the same as others that most times I bottom out the tapcon on concrete or dust and then they snap :(
 

camarotoolman

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I think the screws from Hilti are much better. Never had a problem in very old crete. They have a torqs head drive that grips better too.
 

ishiboo

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I know exactly what you mean. Why don't they sell a short 5/32" bit for tapcons, that fits an SDS?

They do, I have one by Bosch.

Otherwise all good advice here, two more being make sure you drill your hole deep enough (duh), and use a name brand (i.e. Tapcon). Some of the cheaper brands snap much easier. My barn/basement foundations are fieldstone with concrete, in the concrete mortar they do fine but in the stone they snap all the time.
 
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MrMark

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I had good success yesterday using the above tips. I drilled a little deeper and kept pulling the dust out with the drill bit. I used my Bosch SDS and rotohammer. Inserting them I did a couple by hand with a ratchet because they were in a tight spot and the others with a driver using a very slow speed and did not stop until they went all the way.

I think the problem I had the day before was probably from the dust in the bottom of the hole or maybe hitting rock. There's not really any great way to blow out the hole when you are going through the 2X first and then the concrete. The wall is standing up. The pulling up the dust method seems to work well enough without blowing with a straw or something and making a mess.
 

SixStringMadness

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Knox Vegas
I know there has been a lot of input here, but I toss in my two pennies for that they're worth.

I'm not longer in the field, but when I was, I used tapcons for every concrete mounting surface I could, with a couple exceptions. Not as a rule, but I usually passed on the tapcons for prefabbed, stand up concrete walls (high stress/strength concrete) and brick.

Tapcons are awesome, and I swear by them. But I never cleaned out any holes, I always used the exact size drill bit per the size tapcon I was installing (5/32" or 3/16"), drilled (dewalt 18V hammer drill) the holes deeper than I needed, and I drove them in with a impact driver (dewalt 18v impact driver) with a 5/16" driver tip. I broke a few with the impact driver, but usually once they were already driven completely in the hole, and I didn't let off the trigger.

If you buy name brand Tapcons larger packs they should come with the right size drill bit, but if not they detail the size bit that is necessary on the packaging. There are also the drill bits sold in Tapcon labeled packages specific to their fasteners.

When running long conduit runs on concrete surface, especially cinder block, no installation routine was ever faster than a pocket full of tapcons, cordless hammer drill and cordless impact driver.
 
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JYank

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Oct 9, 2011
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The best thing you can do is use the hex Tapcons and drive them with the Tapcons tool. if the Tapcons is not driven quite far enough (and you drilled deep enough) you can use a socket and finish tightening up a hair by hand.
 

fr0mastaj

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+umpteenth on drilling deeper than you need. I found out the hard way as well...
 

GirchyGirchy

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Sorry for the bump, but most of the time the problem I'm seeing is that the Tapcons just don't hold. My house was built in 1930 and has a concrete block foundation, which are somewhat soft and crumbly. It seems that most of the time, I'll drill the hole, put in the Tapcon, and it just won't hold, much less tighten something against the wall.

This is using a hammer drill for the holes, using the recommended size bits, cleaning the holes, and running down with a drill or by hand. Any tips?
 

jkeyser14

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You need to drill a hole with a hammer drill, vacuum out the hole then screw in Tapcon in with a drill with driver attachment

This is definitely the best way. To help prevent snapping off the heads I screw them in 90% of the way using a power tool and the remaining 10% by hand with a nut driver or ratchet so I can feel how much torque I'm applying.
 

GirchyGirchy

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This is using a hammer drill for the holes, using the recommended size bits, cleaning the holes, and running down with a drill or by hand.

Did this again today, drilling four holes to add some outlets in the basement. Three of the four stripped out for the 1-1/4" screw, but I was able to drill deeper to use my 2-1/4" long ones. Anybody have any suggestions?
 

terpfords

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I used some today.

What kind of wall are you drilling into?

When drilling into block you have to drill slowly to minimize the blow out. When drilling into brick or concrete you need a clean hole and maybe oversize a smudge. When setting a screw into both I view it as a onetime screw, meaning you cannot reuse a tap con. I use a cordless impact and bear down on it and don't let go of the trigger until set.

Toggleing the trigger is for sissies!
 

5lima30

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horizontal holes:
1. i didn't clean-out the pre-drilled hole well enough to where mason dust interferes with the threads.
2. i didn't drill deep enough -- drilling an extra half inch or full inch can allow that dust to move back (after cleaning/blowingout the hole.

you may have checked this, but make sure your bit is the correct size for the tapcons.
.[/QUOTE]

+1 :thumbup:!
 

MichMan517

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SE Michigan
All these tips are great. I picked this technique up online several years ago. Instead of Tapcons, I use a 10# galv box nail, piece of bare 12 ga copper wire just a little shorter than the nail, and drill a 3/16" hole thru the 2x and into the concrete. Drop the wire in, pound in the box nail...cheap and VERY effective.
 

GirchyGirchy

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What kind of wall are you drilling into?

When drilling into block you have to drill slowly to minimize the blow out.

Circa 1930 block. What do you mean by blow out? As for drilling slowly, do you mean in terms of the drill's RPM or how fast I push the bit into the block?

I tried a couple slower or faster and it didn't seem to help. I'm thinking for using the 3/16" Tapcons in the block I just need to move down to a 1/8" bit rather than the 5/32".
 

NewShockerGuy

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DUMB question, I just picked up a box that included their drill bit... this is going to hold a flag pole to BRICK...

Are these OK to use on brick? Should I aim for mortar or use the brick itself? Flag pole is costco aluminum that MAYBE weighs in at 3-4lbs...

So not heavy... just never used these before. Want to make sure I do it right so that I am not drilling multiple holes for my f ups.

Thanks,
-Nigel
 

countryroad82

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Kentucky
Like others said, drill the hole deeper than the screw, clean the hole out by running the drill in and out. I use a hammer drill to drill the hole then I use an impact to run the screw in. I use them just about once a week and rarely have a problem.
 
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