Truck topper lift - need construct ideas

[dmac1]

Need some ideas. I have a shell on my full size Dodge pickup truck that weighs about 200 lbs. I have removed it from truck via putting 10' 2x8s under it and building some tall sawhorses and then driving out from under it. Sitting on the sawhorses, the 6'x8' shell takes up too much space in my garage and I need to build a frame or something so I can lift it up into the loft in the garage.

My garage has a manual hoist that is rated for 1/2 ton and its on a track so could slide it out over truck, connect to topper, raise it and slide it back into loft. Thats the easy part. How to connect to topper is where I need ideas.

My best idea so far is to get some 2x2 square tube steel (wall thickness?) and screw together a support structure with a long 'stem' down the middle and 3 crossmembers from which I could attach some webbing with hooks. Problem is the hooks. The edges at the base of the topper are flat but 3 1/2" wide. Where to get a hook that would work?

My other idea is to put the 2x2 steel tube crossmembers under the topper and drill holes and make a square frame via other tubing to keep it all from shifting and insert eye bolts in the crossmembers. I'd like to lift directly from the eye bolts but the webbing would be pulled tightly against the sides of the topper, so not ideal. To mitigate that, I could have the 'stem' frame above it but thats more weight and cost.

Any other ideas? What size and gauge steel tubing would I need in my ideas?

Thanks!

 

[Rock Hound]

My buddy does it with a set up using a 2x4 frame with eye-bolts in it and ropes hooked onto them with carabiners and to a couple pulleys in the ceiling. He lifts up the back end, slides the 2x4 under it, does the same to the front end, then hooks the carabiners and pulls the rope. It isn't elegant, but it works. I now live ~3.5 hours away from him or I would go take a picture.

 

[Cyberbear]

We used to raise our camper shell unit off our truck using simple eye bolts and fender washers in the shell and a boat winch to lift it off into the garage attic space, no problems ever. 200 pounds is a nothing load for a small winch and rope cables.

 

[dmac1]

Cyberbear - I dont have a place to put eyebolts directly into the shell. Is that where yours were?

Perhaps a wooden frame underneath will be adequate vs steel if I put 2x4s on edge. The 2×8s flex when flat and it would seriously **** if the frame broke when lifting it up high.

Rock Hound - is your buddy's a full size truck with 8' bed?

Thanks for the responses guys!

 

[sublimate]

You're not going to break a 2x4 w/ 200lbs (and it's actually only 100lbs since you're using 2) even if it's flat, and definitely not on edge.
It shouldn't even flex much since the weight of the top is not on the middle of the 2x4, but right near the edge where you're picking it up from.

When I used to lift mine I didn't use a 2x4 or hooks - I just ran a nylon strap under it and back up the other side. One near the front and the other near the back. Worked fine.

 

[patrickn]

I use a simple setup in my garage for my 82 Bronco (fullsize) top (its about 125lbs). I use two 2x4s with eye hooks and run ratch straps from the eye hooks to the ceiling. I back it in. Unbolt the top and slide the 2x4s under it and lift it up and start using the ratchets. Easy for one person. I run it all the way to the ceiling and it stays secure and out of the way.

You can also check out the Jeep sites, they have a lot of top removal setups that can be adapted. I have seen everything from saw horses to electric winches. It all depends on your cost limits.

 

[MagKarl]

I put a roof rack on my canopy, mainly to serve as pick points to lift it off with a simple hoist system I set up using a boat trailer winch. I got a low profile rack off of a wrecked SUV that fit the shape of my canopy roof perfectly. Spent about $50 if I remember right.

 

[dmac1]

The store where I got my topper had a commercially made hoist, but the manufacturer went out of business. Perhaps cuz they were too pricey (about $400 per the guy in the shop). It too used a boat trailer winch and seems like a primo way to lift the toppers. I've got the 1/2 ton hoist, so the lifting part should be easy.

The commercially made unit is where I got my idea of hooks.

So far, it sounds like 2x4s with close eyebolts and fender washers is the way to go. The manufacturer's website says the topper weighs 200, but it sure seems heavier than that to me. I figured my son and I could lift it off, but my truck's bed rails are so high (near shoulder height) we can't really get any leverage on it, so perhaps thats why it feels so heavy. I helped a friend put his topper on a full sized/short bed once and it seemed pretty light in comparison.

 

[tncatadjuster]

I used straps they work great, and require little space.

 

[dmac1]

I used straps they work great, and require little space.

I'm thinking that just straps would put too much leverage on the sides....you know...kinda squeeze it inwards? This would seem to be mostly a potential problem on the rear where there is no cross-member like up front.

I guess I could maybe put a 2x4 across the gap to mitigate the concerns....

Did that concern you guys that used just straps?

 

[James-W]

I'm thinking that just straps would put too much leverage on the sides....you know...kinda squeeze it inwards? This would seem to be mostly a potential problem on the rear where there is no cross-member like up front.

I guess I could maybe put a 2x4 across the gap to mitigate the concerns....

Did that concern you guys that used just straps?

I think just straps would work out quite well, if you put the straps in the right places.

Possible you could find a used scissors lift for a reasonable price. My next door neighbor bought one for $150. It didn't work and there was a puddle of hydraulic oil under it. But he bought it and when he checked it all out the only thing wrong was it had a leaky hydraulic hose. Even the batteries were good, they just needed to be charged.

 

[sublimate]

I'm thinking that just straps would put too much leverage on the sides....you know...kinda squeeze it inwards? This would seem to be mostly a potential problem on the rear where there is no cross-member like up front.

Mine had a door/hatch in the back and when closed there is no way the sides could squeeze in.
But I remember running the straps and lifting it off with the door open for easy access and then closing the door after, so I don't think there was much squeezing even with the door not in place.

sorry, it's been a little while since I sold the truck and the top, so don't remember all the details.

 

[dmac1]

Appreciate all the help guys! I think I'm going to go with the 2x4/eyebolt/strap approach. It'll be awhile cuz I need it back on my truck pretty soon so its gonna sit on the sawhorses for a little while. If anyone has any more ideas, I'll still be monitoring the thread.

Thanks again!

 

[Rock Hound]

rock hound - is your buddy's a full size truck with 8' bed?

He has a F-250 with 8' bed.

 

[chrisBTSC]

The 2x4 with eyebolts is the trick. Works perfectly and I can do it 100% by myself.

1.) Back the truck in garage.
2.) Remove camper shell mounting clamps.
3.) Slide 2x4 w/eyebolts between camper shell and truck bed. I run a screw/washers/nut through the mounting holes in the camper shell and the 2x4 to make sure the 2x4's won't ever slide out of position.
4.) Attach straps. I use the cam straps instead of ratchet straps. All you have to do is pull on them instead of ratcheting.
5.) Once in position I secure the camper shell to the garage ceiling with chains. (safer than just leaving the straps.)

Chains are angled so shell won't ever swing around.

 

[dmac1]

Sweet. Thanks for the details and pic! I like the idea of putting screws in for security....especially cuz we'll hafta push it away from wall a little.