Truss Glue

[rac]

Started on garage first of the year and between weather and funds am at a standstill. Thought about putting center post to support roof but looked at other shops and don't like it.Two problems with bought trusses.Money right now and getting truck to site is impossible.Going to build my own.Will use 2x4's and 3/4 plywood for plates.Crazy maybe but here is question.What is a good all weather glue to use for plates and what size nail would be good.

Going across 28 ft. span 4/12 pitch. Shop size 28 by 32.

Thanks for any input. RAC in Tenn.

 

[kbs2244]

Regular construction glue is what I would expect your inspector to be looking for.
I don't have this book, but I have heard good things about it.

http://www.easybuildings.com/details.html

 

[mikeyr]

Wow, interesting idea on that book, seems quite expensive but I like it anyway.

After my garage is finished, I need to build a carport for my boat (is that a boatport?), its going to need to be about 12ft. tall to get the boat in (sailboat with fixed keel so its tall on the trailer) and I almost bought this book until I saw the price, is it really worth it ?

I have to agree on the original question, good ol construction glue.

 

[rcleaver]

I use Titebond exterior glue for everything. The glue joints end up stronger than the wood.

You might also check out Dietrick Metal. They will engineer steel trusses made from C channel and send you a kit. Click on the C-
truss link on this page:

http://www.dietrichindustries.com/products/

 

[Stuart in MN]

If you need to pull a building permit for this building, better find out before you start work if the inspector will approve home built trusses. I suspect most of them these days want to see a stamp on the truss showing they were factory engineered and built.

 

[KMR Construction]

Either buy the trusses or stick frame it. Building inspector will probably frown on home built trusses

 

[Doug I]

Building inspector will more than frown at home built trusses, and his "approved" stamp will stay in his pocket.

He'll want stamped/sealed drawings and design at the least.

Doug
with Engineers hat on

 

[hidollartoys]

The glue would be Gorilla Glue. Construction adhesive is good only in compression and not formulated for structural applications. But I am sure that home built trusses would not pass code unless you have a stamped engineering drawing. Additionally I would discourage the wood gusset design and look into mending plates as an alternative. If they are designed right you will not need any type of glue or adhesive.

 

[mmg440]

You say your located were you can't get truck shipped trusses. Is this being built were you need a permit or inspections?? Are you basically were you can do what you want without questions. I would say personally like the idea of a home built truss if you basically copy a proven design should be workable without having to reprove the enginering. Except for the metal connectors that they stamp on them to join the boards (i think the plywood wood be every bit as strong) I also agree that if a inspector or permits are involved they won't approve this method unless you had it professionally designed. I would think a nice construction wood glue wood be fine something like titebond. I would use high quality construction deck screws to hold them in place with the glue.

 

[BooUrns!]

Go find a book that has the regional/national framing tables for your area (not sure if you have national or state standards). There should be tables for rafter sizing and span lengths. You'll end up using larger pieces of lumber (2x12, 2x10, 2x8 possibly) but if it's done according to the tables, the inspector will pass it. This will apply to all framing in your structure. If it's not in the book, it will need an architects or engineers stamp.

 

[Mussel Kar]

Hello, new member here.
I looked into stick framing my garage roof system and decided not to. My total span was 41 feet with a center wall at 24 feet. I ended up getting these freekin huge 1 piece "room" trusses. I now have a second floor with a room that is 18 feet wide by the length of the garage. Nothing up there yet. Heat rises so the first floor is not as hot as it would be if I used a low pitch truss with no room for a second floor.

 

[KMR Construction]

Stick frame it, using the dimensions you gave You would have a rafter length of 151". I would run 2x8 rafters 16"o.c. and a 2x10 ridge. Add 2x6's as coller ties in the top 1/3 of the rafter. done and done

 

[rac]

Talked to inspector and he said as long as residential and none occupancy I can build trusses.Thanks for input RAC

 

[nissan_crawler]

Will use 2x4's and 3/4 plywood for plates. Going across 28 ft. span 4/12 pitch. Shop size 28 by 32.

That right there tells me you need a professional involved with this.

 

[larry4406]

Truss repairs are very common due to damage during shipment. My truss company would provide an enginneered repair detail. Typically, if a web or chord were broken away from the splice plate, the repair would involve scabbing a 2x4 each side centered on the break (i.e., the scabs were 4 to 6 feet long, sometimes 8'). The attachment detail was typically using PL-400 construction adhesive and a nailing pattern of 16 penny nails, 6 inches on center, two rows staggered.

When the damage occured at a splice where the various diagonals and chords meet, instead of 2x4 scabs, typically we would use a 2x2 square foot piece of 3/4 inch plywood each side, aligned flush with the bottom chord so as to not affect the flat ceiling. Again, glued and nailed in a similar manner.

Hope this helps.

 

[kbs2244]

For those of you that want to go it alone here are the plans.

Note that there is nothing fancy here, No sissors, room above, etc.
Just ranch style buildings.

http://www.public.iastate.edu/~mwps_dis/mwps_web/tr_plans.html

If the law allows.

And I would double check the costs.
The truss mfgs buy their wood at wholesale, so the cost for a bought truss may not be all that much more than a DIY truss.

 

[thumper 549]

OK I do not know what you are doing...but for structural glue like for airplanes ( wood ) or sail boat mast Use Resorcenol, after that your favorite flavor of EPOXY, 3rd would be weld wood.
That order of best to last.
NO glue will hold dry wood going to wet and back to dry

 

[nissan_crawler]

Truss repairs are very common due to damage during shipment. My truss company would provide an enginneered repair detail. Typically, if a web or chord were broken away from the splice plate, the repair would involve scabbing a 2x4 each side centered on the break (i.e., the scabs were 4 to 6 feet long, sometimes 8'). The attachment detail was typically using PL-400 construction adhesive and a nailing pattern of 16 penny nails, 6 inches on center, two rows staggered.

When the damage occured at a splice where the various diagonals and chords meet, instead of 2x4 scabs, typically we would use a 2x2 square foot piece of 3/4 inch plywood each side, aligned flush with the bottom chord so as to not affect the flat ceiling. Again, glued and nailed in a similar manner.

Hope this helps.

Hmmm, now I'm wondering how he meant that. I was under the impression he meant he was using 2x4 for the trusses themselves, and 3/4" ply for the plates. Maybe he meant he was using both for plates