I'm looking to do some reinforcing on my trusses right above one of my garage doors to be able to put a come along type winch. It's mainly will be for lifting the mower to sharpen blades and stuff like that but Ido need to remove my truck bed for some rust repair. My beams are currently 48" on center and running the direction you drive in to the garage any ideas or pics of how to do this?
Truss reinforcement for a winch?
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jkwilson
Well-known member
I'd forget reinforcing the truss and just add a beam specifically for this purpose between trusses. You'd have to run any reinforcement from wall to wall anyway. Loading a truss improperly can cause the whole building to come down.
Well, back in the day before we cared about a lot of stuff, my Dad threw a chain around the 2x4 stud below the roof truss in our cracker box garage and we pulled a dozen engines using a come a long. Never tore up anything or dropped anything. Now everyone is concerned about loads and breakage and safety and .......
Not saying it was right, or safe, but it worked. Most decently built trusses, properly supported will be strong enough to do what you are describing, but I'm an overkill kind of guy. I wouldn't yank on it if I didn't think it could take it.
A separate supporting beam will distribute the load as well. Just my 2c
Not saying it was right, or safe, but it worked. Most decently built trusses, properly supported will be strong enough to do what you are describing, but I'm an overkill kind of guy. I wouldn't yank on it if I didn't think it could take it.
A separate supporting beam will distribute the load as well. Just my 2c
LB-1911
ALLIANCE MEMBER
It depends -
3/4-Ton Chain Come Along (20' Lift)
Can be used for lifting and pulling
http://www.arizonatools.com/chain-comealongs/detail/3-4-Ton-Chain-Come-Along-20-Lift/AZTLB3420/
Note... there's a reason Come Alongs aren't called 'hoists'. Never use a Come Along for overhead lifting, it's an invitation to injury.
http://www.arizonatools.com/come-alongs-and-cable-pullers/
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That's what I mean I think, have any pics to clarify?
Beemer533
Well-known member
I'd probably use a chainfall as opposed to a come-along... Without at least a photo of your particular setup it is hard to say, but if you limit yourself to lifting a couple hundred pounds it probably wouldn't be an issue.
Really though, I can see someone saying if 200 is ok why not 250.. If that works why not 300 and so on... Before you know it you are trying to pick up the front end of your pickup to do the brakes...
I'd just put in a 5 ton bridge crane and be done with it..
Seriously though, I would install a dedicated beam..
Really though, I can see someone saying if 200 is ok why not 250.. If that works why not 300 and so on... Before you know it you are trying to pick up the front end of your pickup to do the brakes...
I'd just put in a 5 ton bridge crane and be done with it..
Seriously though, I would install a dedicated beam..
LEVE
Well-known member
Me, I don't see a problem with the plan. I've done the same thing and it worked fine. I've lifted large snow blowers and transmissions this way. The difference? I used a cheap HF 120vac winch. Just remember that even though you lift it, use supporting jackstands while the job is being done and remove the hanging weight off the cable.
Note that most garages have the weight of a garage door hanging from two to four points on the rafters. Even though some of the weight is held by the rail lag screwed to the side of the garage door opening there's a lot of weight hanging when that door is open. The weight, of course will vary with the width and the composition of the door.
I'd not worry about it unless you're going to pick up that pickup front end or min-van. That, I'd agree would be a problem.
Note that most garages have the weight of a garage door hanging from two to four points on the rafters. Even though some of the weight is held by the rail lag screwed to the side of the garage door opening there's a lot of weight hanging when that door is open. The weight, of course will vary with the width and the composition of the door.
I'd not worry about it unless you're going to pick up that pickup front end or min-van. That, I'd agree would be a problem.
LB-1911
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Length and width of garage?
Distance from floor to underside of bottom chord of truss?
(floor to ceiling measurement)
Are you already using the area for overhead storage?
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John in OH
Well-known member
I won't say this is right or wrong .... but, I used to own a 24' w x 36' garage with standard 2x4 trusses on 24" centers. The garage doors were on the 24' end of the building so the trusses were essentially 24' long. I was able (with some difficulty) to maneuver a pair of 12' 2x4s up onto the top of the bottom truss chords; ie., the 12' 2x4s were laying perpendicular to the trusses and on top of the horizontal truss members.
After getting the 2x4s up into the trusses, I spiked the 12', 2x4s together thus making a "beam" 3" wide x 3-1/2" high. The 12' beam spanned six trusses thus distributing load over the 6 trusses. I wrapped a chain around the center of the beam and hung a chain hoist from the wrapped chain. I never went crazy with trying to lift anything super heavy, but I never had any problems.
You could even add a 3rd 12' 2x4 either above or beneath the first two (laying flat, not on edge) and get even more strength at your lift point. Or, use 2x4s longer than 12' but good luck trying to get them threaded up into the trusses!
After getting the 2x4s up into the trusses, I spiked the 12', 2x4s together thus making a "beam" 3" wide x 3-1/2" high. The 12' beam spanned six trusses thus distributing load over the 6 trusses. I wrapped a chain around the center of the beam and hung a chain hoist from the wrapped chain. I never went crazy with trying to lift anything super heavy, but I never had any problems.
You could even add a 3rd 12' 2x4 either above or beneath the first two (laying flat, not on edge) and get even more strength at your lift point. Or, use 2x4s longer than 12' but good luck trying to get them threaded up into the trusses!
killahog
Well-known member
I kept coming up with really good advice but then I see that avatar again and forget what I was thinking about.
RoscoTom
Well-known member
I wish I had pics of my old setup, I had it in 3 different garages....
It was as simple and cheap as it gets for this.
I had a 12' Ibeam that must have been about 3" x 6".
A 2x4 fit perfect in the notch.
It had a 1" hole with a 1" bushing in the middle. You could put a bolt or a bar through it for a chain fall or come along.
It was stored full time, hanging by 3 short loop chains from a rafter.
The beam weighed 130 lbs, the rafter held it fine.
When I needed to use it, I put 2 adjustable basement screw jacks under it.
It was begging for a gantry set up, but I always lacked headroom.
Tom
It was as simple and cheap as it gets for this.
I had a 12' Ibeam that must have been about 3" x 6".
A 2x4 fit perfect in the notch.
It had a 1" hole with a 1" bushing in the middle. You could put a bolt or a bar through it for a chain fall or come along.
It was stored full time, hanging by 3 short loop chains from a rafter.
The beam weighed 130 lbs, the rafter held it fine.
When I needed to use it, I put 2 adjustable basement screw jacks under it.
It was begging for a gantry set up, but I always lacked headroom.
Tom
Von Psycho
Well-known member
I made a plywood beam (5/8"x24"x8') laminated double with an extra 1' in the middle making a 1 1/4 x 24" x 17' beam for a 16' span running through the trusses and resting on the exterior walls.
The plywood was glued and screwed an screwed to the vertical centre board on each truss.
I'm happy with the way it came out, something to think about.
The plywood was glued and screwed an screwed to the vertical centre board on each truss.
I'm happy with the way it came out, something to think about.
Leaflessshadetree
Well-known member
I've used the header above the garage door before.
joe_padavano
Well-known member
Sorry, but using a truss as a lift point makes as much sense as this:
The fact that both the guy in the photo and you got lucky does not make either method a good idea. The whole point of a truss is that it uses less wood than conventional rafters by putting the structural members in line with the intended loads. They are primarily designed for distributed roof loads, NOT the concentrated load of a single point lift. It's a REALLY bad idea.