truss repair

[billconner]

I'm removing a non-load bearing partition in my old garage (1995) and discovered a deeply notched truss lower chord. Will sandwiching this with 2x4 both sides - glue, screws, and notch for truss plates - be reasonably safe? Pretty sure truss fabricator is no longer in business - their buildings are for sale. Two shots of notch truss and one of the framing I'm removing - same previous owner work. Whacky framing. Disassembling a storage lift and one joint has nails, Philips head screws, and Robertson head screws. The only positive is he friction fit the Kraft faced fiberglass - paper to cold side and no staples - so easy to reuse.

 

[Rusted Nut]

I’m not a truss engineer, but a 3’ or 4’ 2x4 scabbed on each side secured with 16d nails @ 8” OC staggered should work just fine. 3/4” CDX plywood strips would work too. The above is based on fixes I’ve got from real engineers on things like this.

 

[manwithtools]

I'd use 3/4" plywood on either side, construction adhesive and construction screws. Make the pieces about 8" x 48" and notch them on the bottom to go over the top of the conduit.

 

[BillK]

Is it an actual truss or is it just a tie across the walls ? To be honest with you if it has been that way since 1995 Im not sure if i would even worry about it. A much bigger overall picture would be helpful.

 

[billconner]

These are most definitely trusses. First half 1' o.c. because it's next to and attached to 2 storey house in heavy snow load country, other half 2' o.c.

Partition and panel and feed being removed. So, perhaps added partition does help inadvertently. (Think 2 car garage - 2x4 and 1/4 ply wall to turn half into shop - barfly 12 x 20 - and now I converting to a large conditioned room.)

3/4 ply better than 2 by? PL better than Tite-Bond?

Overall picture:

 

[PCustoms]

My house had a tie plate get damaged, no idea when, probably in 1985 when the trusses were delivered. I found it when I measured my ceiling and found a low spot where the bottom cord wasn't attached to the truss anymore. I jacked up the loose section and used 3/4" ply, maybe 16"x16", glued and screwed. Been fine for 4 years.

I'd either use a 2x6 to either side or rip some plywood 6+ wide. Plenty of construction adhesive and a nail/screw pattern to repair it.

My preference is structural screws, only because I don't have a nail gun and trusses bounce when you hit them sideways.

 

[jack stand]

So if you're pulling out the conduit that required the notching it's a simple straightforward scabover on each side to me.
I imagine that you'll discover if there is any support this "non bearing" wall provided when you remove it. 1995 is a long time for a problem not to appear, but when the "repair" is so simple you might as well do it. I'd save my money for a sheet of 3/4" and just use a 2X unless you have some hanging around.

 

[billconner]

So some consensus a no-engineer-involved robust splice like those described above is a reasonable and smart fix?

Thank you!

 

[strutaeng]

So some consensus a no-engineer-involved robust splice like those described above is a reasonable and smart fix?

Thank you!

Sure. Some of the suggestions are what are done in those type of repairs. If you have a handful of screws or nails on each side of the notch, then the tension (usually that's the load of the bottom chords) is carried across the notch.

You can get into single shear vs double shear capacities of screws/bolts, but I don't think it matters here.

The real question is, where is the Sparky that did this?

 

[billconner]

Previous home owner I'm sure. Lots of questionable work. It all goes in opening up room.

 

[WNYflyer]

The real question is, where is the Sparky that did this?

Had a job awhile back, big overhead crane which had a man access platform along side as part of it to get to all the pieces and parts. Far edge of the platform not supported by the main crane structure is sagging so we climb up and take a look. The support of that edge of the walkway is a truss that also acts a guardrail, truss diagonal cut out for mounting an electric junction box of some sort so there's your problem!

 

[Monza Harry]

I am not an engineer, but I to have a, "forever fixer-upper" [I can never fix everything that is wrong here] but like yourself pick the one you see and hit it with your best shot! I like the ply wood from the top down fix but with a 2x? spacer/bridge in the center of that fix [or a diagonal to the roof/rafter(?). I would also attach a 2x4 to create an "L" to each plywood repair panel before hitting it with the construction adhesive of your liking and I'm a screw guy nails may have their place but I haven't seen one where it outshines screws My opinion only and worth every penny you paid for that opinion! As for construction adhesive I am a "PL Premium" fan I have had nothing but success with it when used as directed and many off label uses. Now for the GJ fix 1/8" steel plate to box over the "Handiwork" flange all the edges with your SWAG 20 ton Press Finger Brake and of course you need the 20 ton Press and a MIG, TIG, Arc, Plasma, combo unit to weld the corners up... well you get the idea! Smart @$$ Harry Out

 

[couch67]

As @strutaeng indicated, the bottom chord of a truss is in tension, and is not subjected to large bending stresses (unless you store heavy stuff in the attic space or walk up there!). That said, for peace of mind I agree with the plywood scabs on either side. PL premium is probably overkill and not worth the cost of a tube, unless you have an open one already.