To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Truss selection

PWilks

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2020
Messages
100
Location
Minnesota
Planning a 24x32 garage (I know people will say go bigger. I can’t based on lot size at my second property and zoning restrictions).

My question is; 24’ spread web 5/12 trusses, or 24’ common 4/12.

The price difference is a mere $15 a truss, at 15 trusses is only an extra $225+tax, and the gable ends are the same price.

The storage is obviously a plus, but how flimsy are these laterally at the peak? I will be building it myself, so if it’s that much of a pain to gain 300 sqft in lightweight attic storage (rated for a 25 lb live load on the bottom chord), I would be leaning towards the common trusses.

I live in central Minnesota, so a higher pitch would obviously aid in reducing snow accumulation, but there rarely is a winter where the roof doesn’t get raked at least once regardless.

Another thing is I’m shooting for 12 foot ceilings so I can have a 10 foot door. My in-laws have a camper they often ask to store on my property, and with deflated tires it would clear a 10 foot door. I also can’t go much higher than this (potentially may need to go shorter with the 5/12 roof adding an extra foot at the peak), due to zoning restrictions..

Headroom on overhead doors is typically a foot, but most the plans I’ve looked in my area call for a 3 ply 11 7/8 LVL header to span the 16 foot gap that’s required for a double door. An option would be use two doors, but I’m set on the width of the single door.
11 7/8” + 3” For the double top plate + 1.5” for the garage door horizontal jamb puts us at 16 3/8” headroom required, assuming the LVL is directly under the top plate. that would mean, with a 10 foot door, I’d need at the minimum 11’5 ceilings. 24 span at a 5/12 pitch puts the peak height at 16’5 roughly. That’s cutting it awfully close to the height dictating by my local building department, and that’s without slab height. Seeing as around here we typically have 6” slab on grade with thicker footings along the edges, especially in northern central MN, it’s pushing my allowable height considerably.

All of these play a factor in what trusses to select. Again; the cost of the truss is negligible compared to everything else that must be considered.

Any ideas?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Bigblockyeti

Banned
Joined
Feb 1, 2018
Messages
2,550
Location
Upstate, SC
Get the 5/12, especially for only another $15 a piece. It does look like you're cutting it close, what exactly does the zoning specify for max height?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

matt_i

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Messages
10,725
Location
SE Michigan
As suggested I think you need to look at max allowable height and go from there. Also I would consider how that's measured. I would measure from the hard surface of the finished floor.

If you are going to build the building to store the camper I would set it up so you don't have to do any special steps, just back it in and out and not have to monkey with the tire pressure constantly.
 

CraigStu

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2014
Messages
4,023
Location
Blacksburg, Va
I have seen several posts here about how max height is measured so be sure to get those details. I am not sure I always understood what I was reading but some techniques seemed to give a little more room than one would expect. I would not count on lowering tire pressure to get a camper inside. To me that is just too close w/ no room for error. I think you could only gain a max of two inches clearance before you would ruin the tires driving it in. You are being a really nice guy to build big enough to store their camper. I'd be suggesting a fitted Sunbrella cover and leave it outside.
 
Last edited:
OP
P

PWilks

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2020
Messages
100
Location
Minnesota
I've sent a email into the zoning guy in the city where my second property is located. From their website, the language is weird and I'm not too sure I understand what it's saying, so I'll have him clarify and post back here.

Apparently my father in-law cannot measure for the life of him, as the camper with inflated tires peaks at 9'8'' from my measurements this morning. Gives me four inches of clearance, which may be enough depending on how the apron in front of the garage is poured. If needed I'll plan to have it bigger with a lower pitch to avoid height issues. If it's still an issue, I guess I'll be messing with tire pressure.

As for the pitch itself. If height allows, I could get 6/12 common trusses, or 6/12 spreadweb trusses. Most pitches 4-7/12 are available in both styles, which not much of a price difference between the two styles.

I'd imagine the peak would be a little more flimsy on a spreadweb, but maybe not. Is extra space worth the hassle?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom