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Trusses -vs- Rafters

grissom

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Northern California
I am looking to build a garage not larger than 26x28 why would I want trusses? They are more expensive than conventional rafters?
 
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joe_padavano

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Northern VA
I am looking to build a garage not larger than 26x28 why would I want trusses? They are more expensive than conventional rafters?

They are more expensive only if you value your labor at zero. No need to measure, mark, cut birdmouths, install ridge beam, etc, etc. I just put up 36ft trusses on a pole barn (13 rafters total on 4 ft centers). It took about a total of eight hours over four days with three people to get them all erected.

The reason to use rafters is if you want attic storage. Trusses with storage space are somewhat more expensive than regular trusses. I'm in a rural area and trusses for ag use are typically designed for 4 ft centers. In addition, once your rafters need boards longer than 16 ft, you'll be paying a real premium.
 

GarageEnvy

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Nov 17, 2009
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Fresno
I have both on my garage and I worked as a framer for a very brief period of time. My garage is 54'x34' and attached to the house. The roof also has a hip at the end. Two guys in 3 hours set all the trusses, including the hip section. Then 3 guys took over two days to do the cut and stack section where it blended into the existing roof. In my case the trusses were $85 but that included the engineering, stamp, review and rooftop delivery. Plus, since I was doing an insulated ceiling, the framing was done for that. Time is where you see the savings.
 

volaredon

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IL
I didn't want anything to do with trusses when I built my 30X36 I prefer traditional construction methods and besides trusses would eat into my storage space too bad....
my garage has a 6/12 roof....
 

Falcon67

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Merkel, TX
Up to about 24' you can rafter with common boards cheaper. Usually. There are no $35 trusses around here unless they are for a mower shed. After that, trusses can be a cheaper and certainly quicker method. However, some of the savings will be eaten up by equipment rental to install the trusses. That depends on the weight, wall height and other things.
 

383 240z

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Dec 4, 2006
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Findley Twp. Allegheny Co.
Falcon67, what does a 24' truss cost in your area? They are $39.99 here in Pa.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbqpb/h_d2/Navigation?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053


Up to about 24' you can rafter with common boards cheaper. Usually. There are no $35 trusses around here unless they are for a mower shed. After that, trusses can be a cheaper and certainly quicker method. However, some of the savings will be eaten up by equipment rental to install the trusses. That depends on the weight, wall height and other things.
 

BWS

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Mnts of Va
Looking at the "issue" from a slight(but is an element)tangent........

With a conventional,"store bought" truss.....they would come with,"limited" storage(their words,and I ain't exactly sure what that means).Your cost is "X".

Now,you "stick build" the roof system.....Looking at the "sq ftg" price,on the bldg as a "whole".....How does this "extra" storage space factor in on the price,Truss vs Uframeit?

IOW,s....It "can" be an apple to orange comparo.

Trusses=cheaper/faster.Stickbuilt and your potential sq ftg goes up.Taxes are based on footprint.At least here,tax **** dosen't make a trip inside the building.He's all about the footprint.So,taking this to the "next level"....a basement or partial basement under a building.....with a stickbuilt roof system,with its attendant extra sq ftg,can make a HUGE difference.

That last part may be a little "out there" for some?Don't know?But looking at truss vs stick on cost....one has to include sq ftg,or in my pea brain it ain't a valid arguement.Resale and taxes are also part of the equation....whether you agree with it or not.

I like trusses,BTW
 

GAR64

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May 29, 2011
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107
Location
Upstate NY
Used attic trusses on my 30x36 garage 6/12/pitch. The attic trusses only added a few hundred bucks compared to regular trusses and now I have a large room upstairs. I can see building rafters for a smaller building but trusses seem like the way to go for something larger.
 

BWS

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Mnts of Va
For the most part you're right GAR.........Larger spans(clear) do favor trusses.

Now for the smartazz part......"yeah,what did we ever do before manuf trusses"(WRT large buildings),duh.
 

GAR64

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May 29, 2011
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Upstate NY
I hear you BWS. But we once didn't have things like phones either...not gonna send a message by stagecoach....
 

BWS

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Mnts of Va
Yup,blame it on phones,haha.

And "I" do,thats the ironic part.You see,its a communications thing.Before phones or telegraphs,vernacular architecture RULED.You learned your craft from those who came before you....you know,the chit gets passed down from one generation to next.And only designs that work in that region stood the test or passed muster.

As communications started to allow Joe-dumbazz builder in Va to "hookup" with ****-header in AZ.......well it started to go downhill.Looking at fine furniture's timeline....you'll see communication played a vital role in its downfall.Not the only one,but it is improtant.What are we left with....Chinese furniture from Walmart.So it is with trusses,in that,folks these days(not you)are so accustomed to following the "pack" that any notion of how things used to be done automatically qualify's as outmoded.
 
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FltEngCPO

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Mar 25, 2011
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Moore, Oklahoma
I agree with BWS, you have to weight the return on investment as part of you calculation. I went with stick built so I could have a 12x16 bonus room over half of my shop (30x40) and open on the other half for a future lift height concerns. That open area also caused me to have a high lift garage door so that was added cost too. I think when it's all finished it will be worth it and will give me a good return if I ever sell my house. I don't think the property tax will go up (or not much) for an out building.... At least I hope!
 

BWS

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Sep 3, 2006
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Mnts of Va
Greg,the one thing I've heard more from customers over the last 40+ years that makes zero sense,yet you keep hearing it.........


"oh,we'll never sell"

Heck,everything's "for sale".Don't make your mortgage...don't pay your taxes...have some moneybag dipchit offer you 3X's what the POS is worth.

Was at a house yesterday,in the "fancy" part of town.From the day the customer said sell it....to..."SOLD" was three days.The realtor only put the sign up to get some credit?This chit goes on everyday........The customers got too old to properly take care of their beautiful home,went to assisted living.They always went for,just a little nicer...in their building/design.It does show...not only in day to day traffic,but when the day comes that you WILL sell it(or your heirs,bank,whomever)then it all comes into focus.

Gotta go build sumthin.Ciao
 

FltEngCPO

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Mar 25, 2011
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Moore, Oklahoma
I do everything on my house/shop with the thought in my mind of "how much will this get me when I sell" or something to that effect. I plan to stay here forever, but am a realist and you are right, if someone offers me double what its worth, I'll move tomorrow....
 

mikefromme

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Dec 13, 2009
Messages
266
Really? Show me how to cut rafters for my 36 x 48 pole barn that gives me a complete clear span underneath with no poles or beams.

It's right in the span tables.

http://www.wclib.org/pdfs/SimpSpanTbls.pdf

36' wide building will have a rafter span of less than 18' (36/2-wall width)
So A 2x10 16" oc or 2x12 24 oc will do it (Doug fir or hem-for, #1)

You'll need collar ties in the lower third of the rafters, 36' wide building will result in about a 28-30 tie, depending on roof pitch. Looks like a 2x10 or 12 will support the ceiling. My lumber yard stocks lumber up to 32', available with a 1 day notice. Something many people aren't aware of. And a 32' 2x10 costs about the same as 2 16 footers.



So there you have it, clear span and a higher ceiling height than if you used standard trusses. Two carpenters could frame it in a day and have it sheathed (mostly)
 

BWS

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Sep 3, 2006
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Mnts of Va
Dang Buffalot,that was interesting!

Thanks for doin the job,burning buildings scare the snot out of me.
 

Higgins

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Dec 25, 2009
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Location
Shepheardsville, KY
Wow! That is interesting...................

We live out in a rural area, where the response time is 7-10 minutes. Given that fact, we all assume the house / garage will basically be almost gone by the time the fire department gets there!

Taking that into account, one of the custom builders double DW the shared wall between the house and garage, as well as the garage ceiling. That MAY by us some time, but I'm not sure!

Out in our neck of the wood, the FD hates the use of the TGI's which are engineered beams with a plywood (OSB) web, as I guess they also burn thru quickly. So when we built the 2nd garage, the ceiling was DW with a special 5/8" DW with the 2nd 5/8" running at 90 Degrees if that makes any sense.

I could only assume, that this might provide a little more time for someone to get out of the attic loft, should there be a fire in the garage. Just hope we never find out!

Your Thoughts?
 

milner351

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Sep 14, 2010
Messages
205
Location
SE Michigan
It's right in the span tables.

http://www.wclib.org/pdfs/SimpSpanTbls.pdf

36' wide building will have a rafter span of less than 18' (36/2-wall width)
So A 2x10 16" oc or 2x12 24 oc will do it (Doug fir or hem-for, #1)

You'll need collar ties in the lower third of the rafters, 36' wide building will result in about a 28-30 tie, depending on roof pitch. Looks like a 2x10 or 12 will support the ceiling. My lumber yard stocks lumber up to 32', available with a 1 day notice. Something many people aren't aware of. And a 32' 2x10 costs about the same as 2 16 footers.



So there you have it, clear span and a higher ceiling height than if you used standard trusses. Two carpenters could frame it in a day and have it sheathed (mostly)

I'm trying to envision this in my feeble brain - what beam would be required down the peak of the framed roof for the 2x10 (16 oc) or 2x12 (24 oc) to connect to - or would they simply connect to each other overlapped at the peak? Given the new vaulted ceiling - how much cost is added for the air vents and batte insulation instead of the open space and blown in for a trussed roof?

I like the vaulted ceiling idea especially given the height requirements of a typical 2 post lift like mine (12ft minimum height)

Another real cost saving benefit to a non truss (or "scissor truss) roof could be the ability to have shorter side walls while still providing ceiling clearance for a lift. I've not done the calculations, but I would imagine the cost comparison between 8ft, 10ft, and 12ft walls would be significant.
 

Falcon67

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Merkel, TX
Falcon67, what does a 24' truss cost in your area? They are $39.99 here in Pa.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbqpb/h_d2/Navigation?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

When I looked in 2011, about $80 a pop. 2x12x24 + 2 ea 2x6x14' came to $44. they'd be as much or more now - building boom in Midland thanks to oil fracking. The yards here (180 miles to the east) are sending truck loads of materials daily that direction and charging appropriately. I think McCoys was sending 30~40 loads a day west. Prices are up on pretty much all materials.
 
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