Trying no 3/8 sets

[bsaint]

Im going to try something different and see if it works out. Not sure if anyone else has done the same. As a field tech, getting rid of unnecessary tools is important to make room for tools used more often. I was looking at 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 sets. Most fasteners on one end I remove with my 3/8 ratchet I can remove with my 1/4 ratchet (panel screws, ground studs, etc) and most on the other end (sump cover bolts, valve hold downs) the 1/2" set goes way down low. I may ditch the 3/8 sets and ratchets all together. The machinery I work on usually doesn't require crazy setups for hard access spots like automotive guys need. Not having a 3/8 setup eliminates at least 10 pounds.

 

[shawndp]

I'm rather curious how this works out for you. I have pretty much eliminated 1/2 from my tool cart apart from 17 / 19 / 21 that I need to pull wheels. The nature of what I do allows me to use robust 3/8 ratchets and get away with it. This sort of thread pops up here from time to time and incurrs all sorts of commentary. Everyone's situation is a little different and with that their needs, the key is to make sure your setup allolws you to work the most efficiently. All the best!

 

[fatfillup]

You know what you use so I would say go for it. I carry little 1/2 inch in my service truck because I don't need it. 4 sockets, a ratchet and an extension

 

[Tomthumb717]

I have recently had the same thought bsaint.

 

[65k10]

I sort of do that. I have a small hand carry toolbox filled with 1/2 drive tools only, wrenches, pry bars, hammer, and other common tools I know I can make use of when doing simple maintenance or repairs on my farm equipment.

For the most part it works perfectly fine and allows me to have a small enough box that can come with me almost anywhere I'm working. However, since the only work I do is on my own equipment, I'm not working out of this box all day, every day. If I was, I'd be tempted to at least have a very basic 3/8 drive set included (although as packed as that box is, I'd have to give up something to do it). Say, a ratchet, shallow sockets, and maybe two extensions. As it is, I do keep a decent 3/8 socket set in what amounts to my service pickup along with additional tools when the contents of my hand carry box are not a good match for the given task.

 

[Codejack]

I was thinking about going a similar route for my shop set; skipping normal 3/8" sockets and just getting a ratchet and specialty sockets in that size, e.g. Torx, hex, 12-point, spline, spark plug, etc.

I have 3/8" thin wall impact sockets, and the 1/4" and 1/2" chrome sets overlap in sizes, so why do I need 3/8" chrome?

The only problem I can foresee is a bolt that a thin-wall impact socket can't get to which is too tight for 1/4" and too restricted access for a 1/2" ratchet.

I've never run into that situation...

 

[ocloc24]

The main reason I think i wouldn't be able to go without 3/8" is bit sockets. Most of mine are 3/8"

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[dnschmidt]

Not the dumbest idea of all time as most of the rest of the world considers 3/8" drive in a far less flattering light than we American's do. In Europe and in Asia 1/4" and 1/2" rule with 3/8" drive sucking hind ***. TOPTUL's offerings are a perfect example of this. Every imaginable 1/4" and 1/2" drive sets with slim pickings in 3/8" drive. Personally, I think this is nuts as I use 3/8" drive for everything and for the stuff 3/8" drive can't handle I whip out my Aircat 1250K or bad assed Milwaukee FUEL gun and to teach that ***** a lesson. But a great deal of the planet does it without 3/8" drive.

 

[mbshop]

You use what works for you to get the job done. If 3/8 is not in the picture then it has no place in the kit. We all don't carry things we don't use or need. Well, most times.

 

[Codejack]

The main reason I think i wouldn't be able to go without 3/8" is bit sockets. Most of mine are 3/8"

Not the dumbest idea of all time as most of the rest of the world considers 3/8" drive in a far less flattering light than we American's do. In Europe and in Asia 1/4" and 1/2" rule with 3/8" drive sucking hind ***. TOPTUL's offerings are a perfect example of this. Every imaginable 1/4" and 1/2" drive sets with slim pickings in 3/8" drive. Personally, I think this is nuts as I use 3/8" drive for everything and for the stuff 3/8" drive can't handle I whip out my Aircat 1250K or bad assed Milwaukee FUEL gun and to teach that ***** a lesson. But a great deal of the planet does it without 3/8" drive.

Does Toptul sell bit socket sets that go straight from 1/4" drive to 1/2" drive?

 

[WittHay]

Years ago, we used to have a tool box in each semi-truck, never had 3/8 drive in them. Even today if I was to make a quick field service box for farm use, I would not put 3/8 in it. If the stuff you are working on has easy access to the fasteners. 3/8 drive is not required.

 

[kblee27]

I have the same thoughts.
For my work, I started with 3/8. It was more "beefy" than 1/4.

But then I switch to putting them all in a Veto Pro Pac toolbag and realize 3/8 was really heavy and can't put in much.

For extra torque requirements (usually to loosen overtightened bolts/nuts), I learned that length (leverage) and a hammer helps overcome the lack of beefy 1/4 tools.

 

[dnschmidt]

It depends on the type of bit socket. Here's a set in Torx that only has 1/4" and 1/2"
https://www.toptul.com/s/2/product-397865/12PCS-1-4-inch-1-2-inch-DR-Star-Bit-Socket-Rail-Set.html

Now I'm never going to import that but it is available ten at a time. Which means that if you bought one I'd have nine left for the rest of my life.

 

[JohnDeere1]

You could ditch 3/8 ratchet and extensions and use a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer it's a little less and just keep like 1 set of sockets or sizes you use the most.

 

[DadsTools]

Just recently saw another thread like this. My Dad worked as an Air Corps and Navy Yard mechanic for 30 years. When he made his sons a tool set each for a present when we moved out on our own back in the day, none had 3/8" drive stuff. I understand it was typical in military applications to use only 1/4 and 1/2. Even today when working on cars I rarely use the 3/8 I added later (force of habit probably--just used to approaching it that way), and only really use the 3/8 when I'm working on something smaller like the lawn tractor.

All you can do is give it a try and see how it goes.

 

[crewchief888]

i'm a field mechanic at a const eq dealership.

my most used tools are 3/8" drive.

 

[American Locomotive]

I'd probably do the opposite, honestly. Ditch the 1/4" and 1/2" stuff, and switch to exclusively 3/8". I've taken lug-nuts off with a 3/8" ratchet in a pinch, so I know they can take 100+ lb-ft of torque.

I never get out the 1/2" stuff unless the torque is very high. I'll usually put a big box-end wrench around the handle of my 3/8" ratchet before I switch to 1/2".

 

[dnschmidt]

My view on this is that times and designs have changed. On a 1960 Cadillac you had two half inch bolts holding on the starter. On modern Japanese cars you've got two much smaller bolts holding on the starter. As cars have shrunk the need for 1/2" drive has gone away. On the design side of things American designers normally used three big 5/8" headed bolts whereas Japanese designers use 20 10mm headed bolts. All this has minimized the importance of 1/2" drive and increased the use of 1/4" and 3/8" drive. My view is that 3/8" drive has replaced 1/2" drive due to the bolts getting smaller.

 

[sk farmer]

I'd probably do the opposite, honestly. Ditch the 1/4" and 1/2" stuff, and switch to exclusively 3/8". I've taken lug-nuts off with a 3/8" ratchet in a pinch, so I know they can take 100+ lb-ft of torque.

I never get out the 1/2" stuff unless the torque is very high. I'll usually put a big box-end wrench around the handle of my 3/8" ratchet before I switch to 1/2".

this. ^^^^^^

i would go 3/8 almost exclusively and ad in the needed larger 3/8 drive sizes

long ratchet handles and breakers handle most things up 19 mm and or 15/16 pretty well. throw in a compact 3/8 and that covers the smaller sizes as well because most compact ratchets are based off of 1/4 drive handles.

you may sacrifice a little as 1/4 sockets tend to be a little more shallow than 3/8 but not much.

i have low profile 3/8 sockets and compact 3/8 ratchets and they allow more clearance than a normal 1/4 drive setup.

 

[65k10]

I should have included this in my other post but if the OP or anyone does try going without 3/8 drive in their set, this might be useful.

It's possible to make a "compact" 1/2 ratchet using a Proto J5249 or J5250 and replacing the internals with the J6008RK kit. I've made one with a J5249 and at times it was handy, but it's a shame this seems to be one of the few ratchets this conversion works on. The J5249 is not a bad ratchet, but it has a low tooth count, not the strongest, and the head is kind of big. Still, it's a fairly cheap conversion, so it might be worth giving a shot. I wish there was a 1/2 drive conversion for 3/8 Dual 80 ratchets. I think I could almost get away with a 1/2, 1/4 drive only set for what I do if I had a good 3/8 sized ratchet that could use 1/2 sockets.

 

[Advan]

I'm a traveling millwright and have done exactly what you're considering with zero regrets. 1/4" drive for the tiny ****, and 1/2" for the rest. I find 3/8" drive stuff so useless now I rarely touch it, even working on the vehicles at home.

 

[Codejack]

On modern Japanese cars you've got two much smaller bolts holding on the starter. As cars have shrunk the need for 1/2" drive has gone away.

I just had a 29mm bolt on a Mazda sensor, needed it to come off to change a coolant hose. 21mm, 22mm and 24mm are not uncommon.

On the torque side of things, I'm setting up to do a brake job on my Dad's 2006 truck, and the anchor bolts are supposed to be torqued to 150 lb-ft.

I could see myself not using 3/8".

 

[bczygan]

I'm fixed, not mobile...but:

Every time I think I can get away with less........reality points out that I really need more.

Bill

 

[bsaint]

I'm fixed, not mobile...but:

Every time I think I can get away with less........reality points out that I really need more.

Bill

True but I generally work on one type of machine and run into the same task.

 

[bsaint]

I'm a traveling millwright and have done exactly what you're considering with zero regrets. 1/4" drive for the tiny ****, and 1/2" for the rest. I find 3/8" drive stuff so useless now I rarely touch it, even working on the vehicles at home.

Okay cool. Im setting up myself today without 3/8.

 

[HanShotFirst]

It all comes down to what you work on. For me these days, it's pretty rare I pull out my 1/2", and I find I reach for my 1/4" more than anything else. On what I work on, these days 3/8" is what I use to break the more stubborn stuff.

Many years someone walked away with my 1/2" SAE deep wells, and it bothers me every time I open my tool box, but then I remember...I can't think of a time when I really was stuck because I didn't have a 1/2" SAE deep well socket. Most everything I work on anymore is metric, so who knows if I'll ever fill that void...Hahaha...Of course I'll fill it at some point; I'm a tool ****.

 

[Codejack]

I've been seeing how much I actually need 3/8" by trying to go without; I mean, the tools are still there, but I'm trying to use only 1/4" and 1/2".

Today was a challenge: Alternator on a minivan, down on the bottom below the "V," and the a/c compressor was in between.

1/4" for removing the trim, and even managed the adjustment screw to get the belt off. The actual alternator bolts themselves were a little tight for it, though.

Out came the 1/2" (with a 12mm socket on it ), and it barely fit. The 1/2" drive socket was about 1/2" longer than the 3/8" drive (wow, is this confusing...), and as it backed out, the ratchet was almost wedged against the bay.

Now, this was the 1/2" extendable HF ratchet, with quick release; it isn't low profile, and my 3/8" is, so this isn't a problem, in general, just in the nature of my portable tool kit.

It does suggest, though, that such situations might be more common than I thought.

It also suggests that those nano impact sockets might be more useful than I imagined

 

[T45]

European kits tend to be fine in 1/4+1/2.

From what I can tell, snap on really started the 3/8 drive craze in the USA during post ww2 era. It also really depends on the industry. The aerospace guys use lots of 1/4 drive to put together planes and high tech gear; and in other industries is the same way where small high quality parts emphasise smaller tools.

Snap on actually 1/4 drive ratchets that are pretty strong; maybe among the strongest tools in that drive. But their form factors are often small and obstuction focused. Where the EUro stuff is a bit more normalized in size and has better ergonomis for everyday use. The eurpean makers are also better for specialty sockets (where SO is heavily biased to 3/8 drive in bit sockets).

With appropriate quality tools, 1/4 drive is easily bridgeble to 1/2 drive in terms of strength. You will run into problems at a practical level with torque control and specialty bits unless you make the full committment to brands that support you.

 

[kblee27]

Go to many hardware stores in Singapore and you can only find inidividually sold 1/2" sockets.
1/4" usually comes in a box with sockets and wrench.
Individually sold 3/8" sockets are a rarity.
I've often wondered why.

 

[bigjeff94]

I use 3/8 inch drive a lot at home. When I was working as a millwright at a cement mill we used 1/2 drive a lot. Had coverage from 7/16-1 1/4. I also would carry a compact 1/4 set in my bucket. It seemed 3/8 usually stayed in my locker.

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[theoldwizard1]

I have no idea what you are working on, but if my goal was to reduce weight, I would serious consider eliminating the 1/2" drive stuff. I know you can get 3/8" impact up to 1" and 26mm, if that is enough. Bigger, you can add some 1/2" sockets and a 3/8"-1/2" adapter. (One of my first GJ inspired purchase was 1/2" socket from 1" to 1-1/2" by 1/8" increment. I don't think I have evere used ANY of them, but I have them if I ever need them !)

The big question is, can you find adequate length 3/8" ratchets and breaker bars !

 

[hangfirew8]

I got rid of anything under 1" drive. And just like the OP I'm not going to tell you what I work on, but it's working out great, everybody should do it.

 

[JohnDeere1]

^^^^good point

 

[Codejack]

I got rid of anything under 1" drive. And just like the OP I'm not going to tell you what I work on, but it's working out great, everybody should do it.

Boy, that will make working on weed trimmers interesting; I guess I could use adapters down to 1/4" drive...

 

[bsaint]

I got rid of anything under 1" drive. And just like the OP I'm not going to tell you what I work on, but it's working out great, everybody should do it.

You dont work on anything I work on so why should it matter I tell you what kind of equipment? You sound like my wife where I can't tell her a story about someone she doesnt know without telling her the names of everyone in the story. She wont take "they"s and "them"s.

 

[sk farmer]

i am going to take all all of the wrenches out of my set and replace them with a 4 inch and 12 inch adjustable to see how that works. i am sure it will work out just fine.

 

[joel63]

i am going to take all all of the wrenches out of my set and replace them with a 4 inch and 12 inch adjustable to see how that works. i am sure it will work out just fine.

Sounds as if you have found a practical solution.

Please post back and let us know how it works for you.

 

[T45]

works great if you're a plumber maybe.

modern gear is designed by engineers for power/weight (fuel efficiency) and compactness (volumetric efficiency). this means many recessed fasteners, smaller hardware, and stronger hardware per unit size.

All of that means you adjustable wrenches are useless for 99% of engine work, and in the other 1% they usually are functioning as smooth jaw pliers (not wrenches) to hold something still or to bend sheet metal without maring it.

I know this post above was being sarcastic, but its worth discussing in general why certain tools fit situtations better than others.

Today, some applications 1/4 is ascendant over 3/8, whereas 50 years ago, it was 3/8 being ascendant over 1/2 drive.

Recall, the snap-on nomenclature for 1/2 drive was originally "S" for standard drive. 3/8 was developed during the war to work in airframes and military applications where 1/2 was too clunky. After the war, most aerospace stuff moved on to 1/4 drive during the 1950s or 60s (think NASA,jets, space age, etc).

3/8 supplanted 1/2 drive only in automotive, and later DIY/home uses...which to most hobbyists is a disporportionate amount of the user case. There is also the economics of keeping 1 set of drive tools and not three...etc.

Which brings me back to the point that the use-cases are really what best determint tool selection. Economics has a second order imfluence, but mostly for home and hobby use, not as much for professional or industry uses where the true Economics are in a much larger context.

 

[bonneyman]

I'd probably do the opposite, honestly. Ditch the 1/4" and 1/2" stuff, and switch to exclusively 3/8". I've taken lug-nuts off with a 3/8" ratchet in a pinch, so I know they can take 100+ lb-ft of torque.

I never get out the 1/2" stuff unless the torque is very high. I'll usually put a big box-end wrench around the handle of my 3/8" ratchet before I switch to 1/2".

For years I did everything I needed as a DIYer and part time mechanic with 3/8" drive sets only. Only when I got into HVAC did I add some 1/4" drive sets.

....And I only got into 1/2" drive because of all you enablers here!

 

[ChevyEFI]

3/8" was my mainstay, and I had the SK 47pc. set.
I later ended up with a couple SK 1/4" sets, which are super handy, going to 15mm deep and shallow.
Everything 1/2" I own has been purchased out of need, not just to have.

If I had 1/2" ratchet(s) I liked as well as the SK 3870, I would probably go for the 1/4" & 1/2" plan.

Bit since my trunk box is dups and extras, it is built to be diverse with what I have, so it is mostly 3/8".