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Trying to understand air line drains

billmh

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Joined
May 10, 2010
Messages
7
I am new at using/installing compressed air systems, so bear with me on this. I understand that the system should have a downhill tilt to it and the drains be placed at that point. Makes sense to me.

However, Here is what I have to work with.

My compressor, an Eaton 5hp, 60 gal unit will be in an out building about 90' from the garage and 300' to a well. The unit will be providing air for my soon to be shop/garage as well as an air operated well pump (more on that if you are interested). Both the well line and shop line will be underground.

The run to the well is 300' and is downhill so I plan to put an air filter with and automatic drain at the point the pipe comes into the well house and then elbow up a few feet to a quick-disconnect for the line going down the well. This should take care of the line drain in this direction.

To the shop, the line is uphill, maybe a few feet. So where to drain the line. The low point will be in the out building where the line goes underground only a few feet from the compressor.

So, would another air filter with an auto drain be useful at this position, or just put it at the working end in the shop? The later would be after the pipe comes out of the ground and up a few feet just before a quick disconnect port.

I read somewhere about building a cooling column on the wall and letting it drain back into the receiver. Would this be a better solution?

Thanks...Bill
 
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larry_g

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Apr 28, 2007
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oregon
I assume that you understand that water is entrained in HOT compressed air and it condenses out when it cools. That being said how much cooling will happen in the lines between the pump and the shop. If the water condenses out and drains back to the compressor house then you should not need anything in the shop unless your painting or have a need for ultra clean dry air. In the pump house with the run being down hill you will collect water there. What you said sounds right with taking the air uphill at the last, but do you have enough volume in the pipe to collect the water? I would consider getting a small receiver tank, 2-5 gallons so that the air has a place to slow down and allow the water to drop out of suspension and collect at the drain port. I would also assume that the pump will have a FRL preceeding it and that it will vent atmosphere on use so the water there is not as big of a deal as long as the pump can handle it, ie the pump is not steel.

I'm a bit curious as to why you have an air pump on the well or is it just a charger for the tank. I would like to see your system, if it is a commercial system do you have a link to a website?

Thanks
lg
no neat sig line
 

Torque1st

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KC Metro, Kansas
At the lowest part of the underground line(s) T off & bush down to a 1/4" copper line and put either a manual or automatic valve on that line. A length of large pipe to act as a reservoir can also be installed at the low point.
 
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venom50svt

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Mar 1, 2010
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259
Location
Upstate Ny
I myself would have a water seperator down the line before the air leaves the pipe.. Yes the water will return to the lowest point but you don't want your tank to get funky on the inside.. The farther the air runs from the tank the cooler the air becomes thus vapor will form.. When painting I make sure all my filters and serperators are empty... If not you may get a gob of water going into you gun or tool... If it gets into your spray gun its to late........:shocking:..stevo
 
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billmh

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May 10, 2010
Messages
7
I'm a bit curious as to why you have an air pump on the well or is it just a charger for the tank. I would like to see your system, if it is a commercial system do you have a link to a website.

The pump is called Brumby. It is made in Australia. http://www.brumbypumps.com/

It is a submersible pump and you use compressed air to force the water back up. So, no need to put electric down the well, also fewer moving parts and mantenance. And you get to justify a compressor for the shop!

Bill
 
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billmh

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May 10, 2010
Messages
7
The tank would be higher than the lowest point of the pipe, so the line will not be able to drain back to the tank. I would think the lowest point would be where the air line goes into the ground, then its uphill to the shop. We plan to have a dry well in the floor with enough space to hang an air filter/condensate drain. The pipe size will be 3/4".

The air is pretty dry in New Mexico. We are at 6000ft elevation as well. So, I do not think moisture will be a really big problem and simple drains may be all that is needed.

As I stated, I could use one of those air filters that also collect the condensation. But are there just simple condensate drains that work automatically. The air filter is expensive, maybe $140, and I could just use it at the working end of the line instead of a water drain.

I have tried looking for something that I could use that would just drain the condensation from the line similar to the compressor tank drains.

Bill
 
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