Tsunamiseal garage threshold - proper placement?

[CT2012]

Due to laying out the flooring already and placing everything in my garage, I have to reverse the placement of the Tsunamiseal threshold, i.e., the part that was supposed to face the outside must instead face inside.

Is this really that much of a big deal? There's still a 1/2" of lip for dirt and other **** to overcome. It just looks a little different (and still looks fine to me).

Otherwise, to do the install in positioning the threshold the proper way (or at least per the instructions) I have to take out everything in my garage and re-do the GarageDeck flooring, which would be a royal, and I do mean royal, PITA.

Visually, the ribbed and sloped edge would instead face to the outside, the opposite of this photo (not my garage, it's just a stock product photo from the web).

Suggestions appreciated.

 

[Toomanytools?]

It's a bit hard to tell but the photo's look like it ramps up a bit from the outside, but also from the inside just not as much. I think whatever works for your situation looks like it will still stop the debris and water, should matter installation wise.

 

[CT2012]

the outer-facing portion as pictures above is just a steeper "wall," if you will, at the back of the curve. that's where the garage door bottom seal sits. the other ribbed side gets to that same height, just over a longer section.

both sides ramp up to the 1/2" height. one is steeper, that's all.

 

[porschedude996TT]

I don't see that it matters either way. As long as the door seal is contacting the approx center of the tallest part of the threshold seal or forward of the seal and that water can’t drip down and into the garage space. From the picture it looks like you got a fair amount of overhang for water to drip off the door.

 

[BWS]

Short answer.....way more slope on apron.Think coastal regions(% of slope per ft)....if you are struggling with water intrusion.JMO...YMMV

 

[CT2012]

relatively minor water intrusion at this point. if i throw a bead of silicon across the leading edge of the threshold, between that and the concrete repair that i did, that should do me right.

 

[CT2012]

worked out just fine, install went well. nice product, that tsunamiseal. seems well made, and even though it's reversed (as i described above) it is far better than what existed before (nothing!). for an approx. 17' length i went thru 2 tubes of liquid nails. 1 more day of the liquid nails drying and then clear silicon will go on, hopefully it's not too cold out.

many thanks to the folks at garageflooring llc for the fair price and super quick shipping.

 

[BigSteve63]

I have a similar product called "storm shield" that I need to put down. Did you install yours over the floor coating? I was concerned about lack of adhesion to the ruatoleum epoxy on my floor.

 

[CT2012]

use liquid nails. that stuff will stick to water.

I have a similar product called "storm shield" that I need to put down. Did you install yours over the floor coating? I was concerned about lack of adhesion to the ruatoleum epoxy on my floor.

 

[darkk]

I got lucky, my concrete guy cut my opening lip for the door to set down into. Works great at keeping water out.

 

[CT2012]

well i got the tsunami seal down, mounted with liquid nails as instructed, and i even put a thick bead of clear silicone on the leading edge underneath as well as in front of the seal itself. it looked impenetrable.

....and after today's rains i still have slight water intrusion. it's coming from underneath the tsunamiseal threshold, which means the placement (reversal) of the threshold has nothing to do with it. water's going underneath it and seeping into the garage slab.

while it's not a lot, it's enough to be incredibly annoying considering all the work i did.

ideas?

i'll try & post some photos to better show what i'm talking about.

interior of garage looking out. you can see the little puddles of water. not a lot, but annoying.

more of same view

this is taken from exterior with garage good closed. if you look close you'll see a thin bead of clear silicone on the front edge. i've also got a 1/4" bead of clear silicone underneath the threshold at the front edge, so when it was compressed onto the concrete it squeezed out. you'll see the top piece of azek 2" x 16' thermostop edging--that was a slick solution for the constraints i had, no water infiltration there whatsoever. it rests flush against the top surface of the tsunamiseal.

this last photo is taken from inside looking straight down. you'll see a few little globs of liquid nails at the interior leading edge that squished out when setting the threshold in place.

 

[sophijo]

Tip...haven't tried it yet but........slide a length of garden hose or poly tubing inside the gasket on the door bottom; supposedly makes a more positive seal.

 

[CT2012]

i read about that here and was going to do it, but the original seal on my garage door wouldn't accommodate that.

so....i tore off the old seal (hard to explain what it was like, let's just say it was kinda complicated), took a skil saw and ripped about 3/4 inch off the bottom of garage door because of slab pitch issues. that, and the door itself turned out to be rotten at the bottom (which i could see now that the seal was gone). it was some sort of weird 1" thick channel mdf (in which the seal sat) glued to dual-core plywood.

once that was cut, i could see the actual plywood core (which has a veneer on both sides), which was solid and had no moisture issues, thank goodness. it was in terrific shape, in fact. i ordered a 16' x 1 5/8" alu track with a 2" u-shaped channel seal that will seat just perfect in the tsunami threshold. should arrive shortly. finally, after that's installed, i'll put the other 16' strip of azek thermostop on the inside. that should eliminate any draft issues.

all that said, i dunno how the HECK water is getting UNDERNEATH the threshold!!! there is zero water penetration that is going over the threshold, meaning the slope of the threshold and the thermoseal is stopping everything as designed and intended.

it's wacky. anyone have ideas?

i'm going to go at the leading front edge again tomorrow with more silcone. but it's so cold out now (40's) i dunno if it's going to fully cure.

Tip...haven't tried it yet but........slide a length of garden hose or poly tubing inside the gasket on the door bottom; supposedly makes a more positive seal.

 

[sophijo]

If there's a control joint, in the concrete, under the seal, water may be percolating up through that...it happens...hydraulic pressure.

 

[CT2012]

that's a good point. but, it's only hitting a few isolated spots, not all, so that led me to believe there are pinhole gaps in the silicone bead.

my neighbors must've thought i was outta my mind bent over and staring at the thing for 30-40 min. , but i scrutinized the leading edge silicone bead and actually did find tiny, tiny gaps (like 1-2mm), so i'm going to re-do it (or rather, add to the existing bead).

that stuff is maddening to squeeze out with a standard caulk gun, it's really thick, hard to get a uniform thick bead 16' long without my hands falling off.

 

[sophijo]

Bostik makes a product called "Chemcaulk"...it's exponentially better for your application. We used it to seal joints in pre-fab modular concrete basement panels. The silicone will fail.

 

[CT2012]

Which version would you recommend? There are several.

http://www.bostik-us.com/our-brands/chem-calk

Lemme know and I'll go buy some or order it.

 

[sophijo]

915.......btw; wear gloves cause whatever it gets on you'll have to cut off to get rid it!

 

[CT2012]

thanks!

nobody carries it that's reasonably local to me, i just called a shop that carries bostik products and they're going to see if they can order a couple of tubes for me (as opposed to minimum order of a case).

 

[BellyUpFish]

Where did you pick up the Tsunamiseal?

Is it still holding up?

 

[CT2012]

bellyupfish: sorry for the reallllllly long delayed response.....i've been away from here for quite awhile.

tsunamiseal holding up splendidly. no runs, no drips, no errors....

i ripped it up and re-did the adhesive and then supersized the waterproofing with a very thick band of sikaflex self-leveling sealant (it found its way out both the front and back edges of the tsunamiseal), which compensated for the not-so-level driveway/garage floor interface. i had ripped up and scraped away a lot of silicone bead (22' wide), which was a !&$!^% job if there ever was one. took a long time and a lot of patience.

i can't recall where i got the seal itself, but likely one of the vendors here since this is where i read about it.

 

[BellyUpFish]

Thanks for the reply. Installed mine a few weeks ago.

Works like a champ!

 

[91FE]

What's that emblem looking thing on your floor?