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TTY Head Bolt Concern

spectre6000

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I'm asking here, because in my experience the GJ crowd on average seems to be the most technically savvy across the board and doesn't suffer quite as badly from tribal thought and weird inexplicable or overly irrational biases. If it weren't Sunday afternoon, I'd call the manufacturer, but here we are...

I'm doing a head gasket job on my truck, and it's the newest engine I've ever worked on (YMM is immaterial, but it's an '04 Dodge Dakota with a 4.7L V8). As such, it uses TTY head bolts, and it's my first time dealing with them.

I went through the torque sequence stated in the manual, and one of the final bolts in the series felt like it went plastic or started to shear for the last 2-3 degrees of the final step... To clarify, it's giving me resistance at, say 60 lb. ft. (who knows what it really was since it was the degree stage, but assume for the sake of clarification), then the torque required to turn the last few degrees felt like much less; maybe 15 lb. ft. or something arbitrarily and noticeably lower. Since it is one of the very last bolts in the sequence and fairly accessible, I could conceivably pull it and replace it with a new fastener, but I'd loose however long waiting for it to ship, never mind the cost of what would undoubtedly be a whole new set (about $50). This only happened on 1 of the 20 bolts. The rest behaved pretty much as any other head bolt I've ever used. For all I know, given the type of fastener and the theory behind it, it's supposed to do that, and the rest just didn't quite get there for some reason.

Obviously, I don't want to push it any further to see if I did actually feel it start to shear, but also, plastic yield is pretty much in the name of the type of fastener (and makes it super difficult to search for)... The manual clearly states (though I wouldn't do this personally) that a bolt can be reused if it doesn't appear "necked", so one assumes these things are coming OUT necked and it would have been functional in that state...

Who out there has a lot of experience with these fasteners in these applications that can tell me if it's acceptable for one to feel like it was starting to shear/give/go plastic/however you want to call it right at the end? If not, can I pull and replace that single fastener, or do I need to pull the whole set (and even replace the MLS head gasket) to avoid warping the head or something?
 
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Iron-Iceberg

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Sounds like the treads are pulling out to me. Pull the head off and check. You might need to helicoil that bolt.
 

gofastwclass

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I'm a GM LSx engine fan since they were new and those use TTY fasteners. I and others have successfully reused the fasteners on those engines without issue. I know the feeling you speak of and I have not had one do that to me.

After 30+ years of playing with all sorts of mechanical stuff, experience tells me that bolt is likely about to fail. Even at the cost of a new set if you can't buy a single it's cheap insurance against removing a failed fastener or a head gasket.

A thing my dad always says keeps coming to mind - "do you have time to do it right or will you make time (at the least convenient moment) to do it twice?
 
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spectre6000

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I asked the guys at the FLAPS their thoughts (my high temp exhaust sealant turned into a tube shaped wad of silicon, so I had an excuse to go down and pick some other brains), and they all hesitantly said they'd run with it....

I've continued looking for answers while waiting for responses, and I found a few possibilities.

- The head gasket crushed. Doesn't seem likely. MLS gaskets don't have a ton of crush built in, and nowhere else did that sort of effect happen.

- Stripped threads (as suggested above). I don't think this is likely since it's a cast iron block and the fasteners themselves are pretty hard. Certainly not impossible, but I just don't think it's very likely in this instance.

- Defective bolt about to shear, GET IT OUT. Who knows...

- That's what they're supposed to do, roll with it. Again, who knows...

- Hydrolock (for lack of a better word). It's possible some oil or coolant got down in that particular hole (not sure if they're blind or not), and I got to the point where it just wouldn't compress any more. It's at the back of the engine, and happens to be at least in the proximity of where the original head gasket failure occurred. I can't get my head in there to look down the hole one way or the other.

I've found only one other instance where something similar happened so far, and it sounds like it was a non-TTY application (old Land Cruiser, which I've dealt with extensively in the past). Not really clear what actually happened, and the thread quickly devolved into music video links for some reason.

My gut reaction is essentially the same as yours, gofastwclass, but I know I'm ignorant about these fasteners and really just not sure that they're not SUPPOSED to do that to some degree... Have you done a lot of LSX heads? Have you ever experienced anything like this?
 

malibu101

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My first thought when reading the original post was are you sure there was no liquid in the hole?
But you already thought of that. :thumbup:

It's 50/50. Maybe good, maybe not.
Me personally, at the stage your at, I'd take the head off and **** up the cost of new bolts and gaskets because I would always be wary of something I thought wasn't right.

Are ya feelin lucky? :)
 
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spectre6000

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I thought of it, but that doesn't mean I have any confidence in that thought one way or the other. A wise man knows when he doesn't know, and I guess I've done enough of this stuff to have wizened up a bit. I'm right there on the 50/50... At least I'm not alone...

If, after talking to the manufacturer in the morning, I'm still feeling 50/50, I'll have to **** it up. My time is worth more than the cost of a head bolt set, and right now the time required to fix it proactively is minimal. Given the location of the bolt and the lack of heat cycles, I think it's entirely likely I could just swap the single bolt without issue.

The other side of the equation is that the exhaust manifolds were warped badly and in an unusual way such that I had to order a new set. The original vendor I bought from was garbage, and sold me goods they didn't have and couldn't get, and waited a full week to tell me they were pushing the ship date back a month (and even that didn't seem to have much confidence) AFTER they had already charged my card! THEN, they had the temerity to tell me they may not be able to issue a refund in a timely manner. So it's been down the time it's taken to do the job totally solo, in my partially completed barn without compressed air, PLUS nearly an extra two weeks after finally finding a real vendor and waiting for additional shipping.

Meanwhile, this is my DD...
 
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LXCam

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You stretched it. I build a **** pot load of dodge stuff and you went just a hair too far. Which bolt is it.

You haven't fired it up yet right?
 

BillK

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Rear inside bolt on the drivers' side. I haven't. Stopped once that happened out of caution. Thoughts on how to proceed?

Did you see my reply above ????? Get one new bolt from the dealer, remove the one you have a problem with and replace it with the new one and see how it feels. If it feels ok you are done. It probably will.
 

rlitman

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Do you have the original bolts? I'd pull the bolt, and compare it's OD against the original with a good micrometer. Then look it over closely for micro-cracking.

If the originals can be replaced as per the manufacturer's spec, I'd consider putting one back in that spot, rather than the one that is clearly starting to fail.
 
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spectre6000

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Did you see my reply above ????? Get one new bolt from the dealer, remove the one you have a problem with and replace it with the new one and see how it feels. If it feels ok you are done. It probably will.

Nope. Started the reply before yours, but didn't actually hit submit until after (no real excuse save I got distracted with other things, for what must have been a good hour and a half). That's where my head is at the moment.

Still going to call the manufacturer in the morning just to solidify that last 1%, and then to see if they'll send me a replacement, or I can buy a single, or at least figure out a smaller set that uses the same bolt. I know the 6 cylinder is the same bolts, just fewer, so that's at least a little cheaper...
 
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spectre6000

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Tying a bow on it for anyone who comes later with a similar question:

I talked to the manufacturer of the fasteners this morning, and that lightness in torque at the end is NOT what it's supposed to do. That is a failure in progress. Do not proceed. Everyone's instincts are correct except the guys at the FLAPS (note for future reference since I just moved here).

The remedy (as stated correctly above) is to pull the bolt, clean out the hole, and replace it if at all possible. If it shears in the process or if the hole can't be cleaned, I'll have to pull all of them and start over with a new set of bolts. Thanks, all; Helped me sleep last night.

Further intel on a similar note. MLS (multi-layered steel) head gaskets are another recent trend in automotive engineering that I've not dealt with before. I asked if there was any risk in either scenario to the gasket, and the answer from the manufacturer was no. There's <1 thou crush, and the embossing should spring back as long as it hasn't been heat cycled. The coatings are similarly heat dependent. Once it's been fired though, the head gasket should be replaced if the head comes off.

Also, I was wrong. The 6 cylinder does NOT use the same bolts... The thread pitch is 1.25 vs 1.5 in the V8 because Chrysler doesn't know how to do parts interchangeability in a tragicomic way. Further, the bolts are not available outside the set, and there are no other applications for this particular bolt, so I get to buy an entire bank's worth regardless. May be worth pulling the head all together just to make cleaning easier since the money is the same, and the time wouldn't likely be all that different.
 

rlitman

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Well, if it snaps on the way out (a real possibility), then your decision regarding pulling the head will be made for you.

If you do pull the head, remember that this wasn't the final bolt in the sequence. You've already torqued to angle a bunch that you probably don't want to re-use, should this happen again, but you also have some extras.
 

Ole Slewfoot

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I once had a bunch of TTY head bolts from a cheap supplier, and maybe 1/4 of them broke on the final cold quarter turn. Once the head broke off, stick the eraser end of a pencil down the hole and spin, they'd come right out to be replaced with a single new one. the ones that survived install seemed to do fine, which surprised me.

To check them, lay thread to thread with a new bolt, if the threads match up all the way, you are good to go. No micrometer needed.
 

gofastwclass

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My gut reaction is essentially the same as yours, gofastwclass, but I know I'm ignorant about these fasteners and really just not sure that they're not SUPPOSED to do that to some degree... Have you done a lot of LSX heads? Have you ever experienced anything like this?

I realize my reply is a touch late as several others have replied. Since this question was directed at me I felt obligated to answer.

Yes, I've done a fair number of LSx heads and rotating assemblies with TTY bolts and what you have experienced is NOT normal for a TTY bolt. You have gone past the engineered stretch point and in my experience it will fail attempting to make torque (or angle) or in service after a short interval. The few bolts of any type I've had similar experience with always failed attempting to make torque.

Right now you could simply replace the single bolt and be good to go without removing the head because it's never been heat cycled. I know people who have reused MLS gaskets after many drive cycles but I'm not that bold. I have accidentally torqued down a set of heads and needed to remove them shortly after. I pulled the heads off and used the same never-fired / heat cycled MLS gaskets upon reassembly. That engine ran perfectly for the last three years until I pulled it apart for upgrades. The head gaskets never leaked and didn't show any adverse signs.
 

Buckgnarly

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What's FLAPS?....I think I got the Auto Parts Store part, but what's the FL.... Local?..... sorry, its been bugging me since first posted:headscrat:bounce:
 

malibu101

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spectre6000

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Yup. Friendly Local Auto Parts Store. I’ve discovered the best store isn’t the same everywhere. The best here so far is an O’Reilly distribution center, though the tech talent is 0 for 1, at least for that single issue and shift.

The bolt came out without any drama, but also without any noticeable damage... there is a part of the bolt that is clearly designed to be where the plastic deformation occurs, but it’s sort of threaded (ringed actually), and I don’t have a micrometer anvil that can get in the base of the grooves. Similarly, I don’t have a micrometer long enough to fit a bolt that long, but I thought of a way to check the length after it was all done. Regardless, there was no way to quickly get a single bolt, so I ended up having to buy a set. I want ahead and pulled the head to really check things out to make sure I didn’t do anything funky, and used the whole new set. $50 for peace of mind and to be sure I don’t have to do such an involved job again any time soon.
 
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