Tube bender

[Grant Gunderson]

I have an upcoming prototyping project where I’m going to need to make at least 12, identical 180 degree bends with a 4” radius in ¾” .125 wall steel tubing. Chances are I’ll need to do this multiple times. Any good recommendations for a tube bender? Ideally something with the capability to doing large tubing down the line if needed, but being able to make accurate repeatable bends is priority.

Also I have limited space left in the shop, so sorry merging that takes up minimal floor space would be ideal.

Ideally I’d like to pick a good quality one up used, but willing to purchase new if I don’t fine one in time. Thanks.

 

[ez-duzit]

JDsquare Model 32 if you want to also do larger tube bending. Love mine. Photo of my first project.

 

[Firebrick43]

I to would recommend the Model 32. A friend has one and is a great machine. You wont need hydraulics for the size of tube you are doing but it can be added later for larger pipe.

 

[gleman]

JDsquare Model 32 if you want to also do larger tube bending. Love mine. Photo of my first project.

Wow! That's quite the first project. Very nice work.

 

[ez-duzit]

G--tank you.

I built a heavy duty frame and utilized an ancient Kennedy rollaway cabinet for mounting my Model 32. Accessories are stored in drawers; dies in the bottom compartment, where the hydraulic power pack is located. Motor just barely sticks out the back for airflow. Bender pivots on column for maximum versatility.

 

[dr_clyde]

JD2 is for sure a really nice bender, I have one and I like it.

The dies are fixed CLR however, and if it is critical that you have a 4" rad. I would make sure the dies match for what you need.

It is possible to make custom dies, but it is expensive and rarely worth the effort.

If you can, I would recommend designing around the tooling available.

 

[dr_clyde]

If you want a more universal iron bender, a Hossfeld Model 2 will do tubing and pipe as well as flat, round, angle and whatever you've got dies for.

They are a little easier to make custom tooling for, but they're not as easy to use.

 

[zmotorsports]

I have the JD Squared Model 3, which is the predecessor to the Model 32, and it has worked great for the past nearly 20 years or so I've had it now. I purchased it as a manual bender with about 3 dies and slowly added a few more dies over the years as needed and about 8 or so years ago converted it to air over hydraulic and I don't regret it one but. The hydraulic option is definitely the way to go.

 

[AA/FC]

I've always used a HOSSFELD bender with great results. They're probably more money than the JD2 but they're also heavier duty than the JD2.

Just me $0.02

 

[ez-duzit]

I have bent 2"schedule 80 in 316 stainless. Couldn't have done it without the hydraulics.

 

[dr_clyde]

The manual option is cheaper for sure, but it's def. easier if you have the hydraulics. The manual is easier to tease a degree or so out a bend if you sneak up on it, but you'll get tired of swinging the arm in short order.

My benders are manual, but I've used the hydraulics and if you're doing a large amount of bending it'll save your shoulder. For a dozen parts here and there I wouldn't bother, but if you plan to use it a bunch, the hydro makes it easier.

 

[b-dog]

1 more air/hydraulic Model 32 here but I'll add a recommendation for the Rogue bender as I was not impressed with JD2's customer service. I don't even remember what I wanted when I contacted them, it was years ago but obviously left a lasting impression.

As far as vertical (Rogue) vs horizontal (JD2) bending, I've run into multi-axis bends where I would've had to change the direction no matter which bender I was using. Maybe the vertical bender is easier to set up for a second (or more) bend in the same plane since you don't have the first bend cantilever hanging out in space. *shrug

 

[cannuck]

Many years ago, I made VW exhaust systems from 1 3/8 18 ga. ERW and many structural components from 1 x 1 x 0.125 6061T6 square tube. A LOT of bending. I built a bender that uses a pivot point to close a rolling die onto the start of the bend and a removeable extended handle to pull the bends. To keep the steel from collapsing (very thin wall) I would fill the length (pre-cut) with crushed clinker from nickel mine (IIRC Iron Sulphide). Made all of the dies from 2" thick x 8" blanks turned on my little 14 x 40 Taiwanese lathe (very light at only 800 lbs. so SLOW going). Heaviest I have bent is 1 1/2 14 ga DOM for roll cages - pretty much the limit. While not ideal (the rolling die concentrates too much force over a fairly small area) it has worked well enough to build literally thousands of things over the last 35 years. If I ever decide to get serious, though, I will build a mandrel bender that uses a straight following die instead of letting a rolling die do the work. Hydraulic next time as well. I did the original tooling all as round since I did not have a milling machine then - and still not sure how I would/will build a straight die with limited tooling.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Thanks for all of the great info guys! I’ll see if I can find a JDsquare unit around here used before I go with new.

 

[Walkers]

Most bender dies are 6” radius (CLR, center line radius) so make sure you can find dies for a reasonable price before you buy the bender..

 

[cannuck]

Most bender dies are 6” radius (CLR, center line radius) so make sure you can find dies for a reasonable price before you buy the bender..

Yes, something I should have mentioned. 4" radius dies are great for up to 1" but REALLY difficult to get good bends on 1 1/2" (thus need to be stuffed to prevent complete collapse). 6" will let you get up to 2" without a mandrel IF you have enough wall thickness and IF you have enough power to make such a bend.

 

[ez-duzit]

Most bender dies are 6” radius (CLR, center line radius) so make sure you can find dies for a reasonable price before you buy the bender..

Not so.

Available enter-line radius (CLR) sizes increase according to the size of the pipe/tube. JDsquare offers choices of CLR for each size pipe or tube.

 

[Walkers]

Not so.

Available enter-line radius (CLR) sizes increase according to the size of the pipe/tube. JDsquare offers choices of CLR for each size pipe or tube.

I see it has gotten a lot easier since I bought my Hossfeld 15 years ago. I did not see the size the OP wanted exactly though, which warrants my caution of make sure you can get what you want before you buy.

 

[brownbagg]

pay someone