Tuff Shed Door

[skon1212]

We just bought a 10 x 12 used Tuff Shed that we had to have craned into our yard. It is sitting on a concrete pad and it is sitting perfectly square on the pad. Of course the pad has some slope for drainage but nothing major. Today when I went out the door was a little stuck in the lower right corner below the door handle. When I closed it, it hit in the same corner and I had to lift up on the handle to shut it. When looking at the door you can see the gap between the door top and the trim is wider on the side that rubs when compared to the other side. Is there a way to adjust the door? The hinges seem non adjustable and the shed weighs 3000lbs according to the crane operator.
I am not sure if shimming the bottom is an option. Any suggestions?

 

[The Cobbler]

try shimming the shed under the hinge side of the door to raise it bit. or can you loosen the bottom hinge & shim it a bit to tweak the door?

 

[JimbosGarage]

I think tuff shed has a good warranty, especially on the door. I have two tuff sheds, had both for about 7 years, no problems so far.

 

[skon1212]

Tuff sheds are built on those metal beams so I am not sure if shimming under the hinges between the concrete and foundation would work but may have to try. I thought about the hinges but they don't seem adjustable. How could you shim them? Ses like a good idea if you could give me more details.

 

[Matt M PA]

Is the door metal or wood? My wooden shed doors have threaded adjusters installed diagonally. By tightening a turnbuckle you can adjust for sag, etc...

I can post a picture if wanted/needed...

 

[The Cobbler]

... How could you shim them? Ses like a good idea if you could give me more details.

if the hinges are removable loosen the screws on the jamb or door and shim behind with something like cereal box or similar.

 

[skon1212]

Is the door metal or wood? My wooden shed doors have threaded adjusters installed diagonally. By tightening a turnbuckle you can adjust for sag, etc...

I can post a picture if wanted/needed...

It's a wood door and heavy. If you could post pics that would be great.

 

[frankthezapper]

I would cut a couple of wooden wedges (a piece of framing timber about 6 inches long, cut on the thin side diagonal , ....if using 3x2 you would end up with 2 wedges 6" long, 2" high and 3" wide) put them under the door jamb and drive them under to lift the side of the door. 2 opposed wedges, hit with 2 hammers at the same time will lift an amazing weight. If ,of course you make the problem worse you remove them and put them under the other side.

 

[Matt M PA]

Here are a couple pics. In fact, I need to adjust the door today. I put a floor jack under the corner of the door gently lift it, adjust the turnbuckle, and then release the pressure on the jack. Hope this helps.

 

[Matt M PA]

Another pic...using my phone to upload..sorry it's turned the wrong way....

I can only add that my shed was find for the first 5 years or so...then the door needed to be adjusted. There are two doors that meet...only this one needed to be fixed.

 

[dfiler2]

I would shim the building, trying to adjust the doors means you are trying to make the doors out of square to match the opening which is out of square because of the slope of the slab.

 

[skon1212]

Here are a couple pics of the door. The first one shows the gap change from the hinge side on the right to the latch side on the left. The second pic shows the type of hinge on the door. It's the bottom hinge btw. I watched a video where a guy removed the door using the outer hinges only, put spacers between the bottom of the door and the threshold to seat it straight then screwed the hinges back in. Video was to far away and my concern would be lining up halfway on an old hole then really cause a mess. Anyway, if you could telle exactly where to place shims to adjust to door I would appreciate it.

 

[The Cobbler]

remove the bottom hinge from either the jamb or door. use wood dowel & glue & fill the screw holes , shim the door to where you want and then screw it back in place. it takes very little to move the door so if you had an auto center punch to locate the new holes it would help .
I still think you could lift the jamb side a bit and shim it up to correct your problem.

 

[skon1212]

Forgive me if I am asking a stupid question, but when you say jamb side you mean the door hinge side correct? Thanks for all the help btw. Hard part will be getting shims between the metal frame and the concrete.

 

[The Cobbler]

yes, the hinge side of the door on the shed side. is it bolted to the concrete? how is it fastened?

If you jacked the head of the hinge side it might help you lift it so you can shim

 

[skon1212]

No its not bolted down. Just resting on it. It does weigh 3000 lbs though. I do have a gap on the edge where the hinge side is so I might be able to get a pry bar under there. There is absolutely no way to lift the far back corner though so hopefully shimming doesn't make things worse. I may just have to reset the door like you also suggested.

 

[skon1212]

Borrowed a big post digger bar from the neighbor, was able to get shims in the corner and some shims under where the hinges are. Door opens perfect now. Thanks for all the help