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tungsten sharpening

that-guy

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Sep 6, 2012
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NoVA
been tig welding for a little over a year now, and have been sharpening my tungsten using a dedicated bench grinder, and has thus far worked without an issue. now, after doing some quick looking around on the web, i found this stuff called Chem Sharp. i've found it made by several different companies and only like $10 on ebay. is it really as good as they advertise?

http://weldingsupplies.dynaflux.com...n-sharpening-products/-i-chem-sharp-i-/600-6?
 
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zkling

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Jan 23, 2007
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I'm not a fan, personally. It is a neat concept, but don't really see the need, unless a grinder is not available. It is not very fast and the tip isn't as crisp as I could get it with more conventional sharpening methods. Additionally it is pretty slow compared to the standard bench grinder or belt sander especially if you dipped the tungsten and have a booger of metal on the end.

IIRC it is some type of nitrate salt. Potassium or sodium nitrate, maybe :dunno: Don't quote me on that.
 

laser3kw

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Nov 17, 2012
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northen IL
did didn't care for it. Something about chemicals a high heat don't sit right with me. It did change the shape of the tungsten.
I like to control the shape/ taper by grinding and the swirl pattern around the tungsten ( OCD?).
 

kf4zht

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Mar 20, 2008
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Calhoun, GA
I tried it, it works ok, but not that great and is slow. Also I was constantly paranoid about knocking the glass jar off the table and ending up with an unknown chemical everywhere.
 

shawnspeed

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Sep 11, 2009
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I have used it and thought it was OK....especially when I was working in an area with no grinder ....I did not like the fact that it sometimes woud throw chemical spatter up inside the cup & block my gas lens, and having to tear my torch apart to clean it....Shawn
 

theknurl

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Dec 18, 2010
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SoCal
I'll pass.....don't need more heated chemicals in my life

for you guys that worry about no grinder in the area????:headscrat

just have some extra tungstens handy:thumbup:

problem solved:D
 

laser3kw

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northen IL
I put the tungsten in a drill chuck and spin it against the grinder wheel.

ok to get the point, then you should dress it so the sand / grind / scratch marks run parallel to the axis and not circular around the tungensten.


http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/articles/tungsten-electrode-guide

A pointed and/or truncated tip (for pure tungsten, ceriated, lanthanated and thoriated types) should be used for inverter AC and DC welding processes. To properly grind the tungsten, use a grinding wheel specially designated for tungsten grinding (to avoid contamination) and one that is made of borazon or diamond (to resist tungsten’s hardness). Note: if you are grinding thoriated tungsten, make sure you control and collect the dust, have an adequate ventilation system at the grinding station and that you follow manufacture’s warnings, instructions and MSDS sheets.

Grind the tungsten straight on the wheel versus at a 90-degree angle to ensure that the grind marks run the length of the electrode. Doing so reduces the presence of ridges on the tungsten that could create arc wandering or melt into the weld puddle, causing contamination.
Generally, you will want to grind the taper on the tungsten to a distance of no more than 2.5 times the electrode diameter (for example, with a 1/8-in. electrode you would grind a surface 1/4 to 5/16-in. long). Grinding the tungsten to a taper eases the transition of arc starting and creates a more focused arc for better welding performance.

When welding with lower currents on thinner materials (those ranging from .005- to .040-in.), it is best to grind the tungsten to a point. A pointed tungsten allows the welding current to transfer in a focused arc and helps prevent thinner metals, such as aluminum, from becoming distorted. As a note, using pointed tungsten for higher current applications is not recommended, as the higher current can blow off the tip of the tungsten and cause weld puddle contamination.

Instead, for higher current applications, it is best to grind your tungsten to a truncated tip. To achieve this shape, first grind the tungsten to a taper as explained above, then grind a .010- to .030-in. flat land on the end of the tungsten. This flat land helps prevent the tungsten from being transferred across the arc and/or from balling.
 
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T

that-guy

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Sep 6, 2012
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603
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NoVA
ok to get the point, then you should dress it so the sand / grind / scratch marks run parallel to the axis and not circular around the tungensten.


http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/articles/tungsten-electrode-guide

i think he means he is using the drill to rotate the tungsten while the grinding wheel is rotating the same direction as the tungstens axis...i rotate it by hand and use this older 3.5" Black and Decker bench grinder i got at a yard sale. put a fresh wheel on it and i have been good to go since
 
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paranoid56

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Dec 18, 2008
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San Diego, Ca
i just use one of these. makes life sooo easy :D
bought it for 25 bucks at an auction. best 25 bucks spent ever
grinder2.jpg
 

Man Cave

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Oct 29, 2009
Messages
94
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southern Indiana
I'm way to picky on how I like my tungstens to look. That jar of hair jell dosent put the kind of tip on that I like. Those dedicated tungsten sharpeners are just gadjets to me. Guess I'm getting old and opinionated. 40 years of tig welding experience here.
 

bullnerd

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Sep 17, 2012
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Jersey
Small green wheel on a small cheap grinder, on tig table, by hand, not worth mounting in the drill to me.
 

theknurl

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I'm way to picky on how I like my tungstens to look. That jar of hair jell doesn't put the kind of tip on that I like. Those dedicated tungsten sharpeners are just gadgets to me. Guess I'm getting old and opinionated. 40 years of tig welding experience here.

i'm with Man Cave.......and 3 years behind him:lol:

i use a Starrett pin vise and a Baldor 6" grinder...
there are probably 50-60 used but sharp tungstens in the top left drawer of the SnapOn box mounted on top of my Lincoln 300/300
the next one down has about 1 1/2lbs of new 2% tungstens 0.040-0.125.....and some other types too;)
 

rodm1

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Feb 17, 2008
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rlitman

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Oct 18, 2010
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Long Island
That ingenious, putting it right alongside the grinding wheel. A 6" grinding wheel is useless by the time it's worn to 4" anyway.

Right now, I use a blue zirconia belt on my benchtop belt sander, because tungsten is hell on a regular grinding wheel, but I need to replace my grinding wheel anyway at the moment, so I think I may try the diamond idea.
 

dr_clyde

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Jan 7, 2009
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Location
Holland, MI
I have a thing of chemsharp. Used it once. Takes way too long. If i have to just touch up the points, i just spin it by hand on the belt grinder. If I have a big, epic contamination booger i bust out the cordless drill to get a point again. If it gets too hot or is too small for you, use a pin vise.

I also have a TechSouth tungsten grinder for when Ive got the dynasty in the plant with me and dont have my big Kzoo belt grinder next to the bench. They are designed for orbital TIG where the shape of the point actually matters.

While there is an optimal shape and scratch orientation for tungsten points, just about any shape/scratch pattern will work. It only starts to matter with really fussy fine work or orbital welding.
 
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