Two Post Lift Installation

[ep-98-z]

I am considering installing a Rotary two post lift.
Has anyone seen how most installers stand the columns upright?

Any other installation advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
John

 

[OldCarGuy]

Two strong men can upright the columns. Just walk it up like an extension ladder. Or use an engine hoist (cherry picker) with a choker strap more than half way up the post.

The process is rather simple, just follow the instructions. A 1/2" hammer drill is a plus to drill the anchor holes. Make sure that the posts are vertical, parallel and the proper distance apart.

 

[Ed ke6bnl]

Two strong men can upright the columns. Just walk it up like an extension ladder. Or use an engine hoist (cherry picker) with a choker strap more than half way up the post.

The process is rather simple, just follow the instructions. A 1/2" hammer drill is a plus to drill the anchor holes. Make sure that the posts are vertical, parallel and the proper distance apart.

I happen to have a tractor to lift them but like others said it can be done with two healthy guys the bottom plate is the heavy part after it is up they can be rocked and turned to move around the floor Ed ke6bnl

 

[bmwpower]

I should have some pictures up by the end of the month. I'm having my Rotary 2 post lift installed on the 30th.

 

[ep-98-z]

That would be great to see some installation pictures.

I have a heavy duty engine hoist (cherry picker). So, as someone suggested, I think if we can raise the columns as high as possible, standing them up shouldn't be too difficult.

 

[krooser]

Measure ten times...bolt it down once....

 

[keywestjack]

I'm unsure about the suitability of the my concrete floor (residential construction). If I were to cut out portions of my floor (larger than the foot print of each post, install metal achor plates, and use 4000+ concrete thicker than 4 inches, would that be OK? Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

I was also thinking that the above procedure would allow me to get a very level install as my floor has a slope to it for drainage.

 

[Junkman]

I'm unsure about the suitability of the my concrete floor (residential construction). If I were to cut out portions of my floor (larger than the foot print of each post, install metal achor plates, and use 4000+ concrete thicker than 4 inches, would that be OK? Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

I was also thinking that the above procedure would allow me to get a very level install as my floor has a slope to it for drainage.

If you are concerned about the concrete in your garage, then you could cut out a section and pour a column of concrete that will act as a base and a counter balance to the unit. If it were me, I would first contact a structural engineer and get a professional assessment. This is one time that a failure could be lethal...

 

[keywestjack]

Thanks for the input. My thought is that regardless what the condition of my concrete floor I can make it a sure thing by pouring my own foundation of the lift.

 

[lumberjack_jeff]

If you're going to pour a footing for your hoist, be sure it's big enough fore and aft so that it can withstand the potential rotating force - the degree to which the load is off center of the lift.

A continuous slab is best. Personally, I wouldn't pour just a footing - if I were concerned about the integrity of the existing slab, I'd dig up a 16x12 area and pour a new one. When you begin digging, it'll become immediately apparent if your slab is thick enough.

Of course, if you start digging where one of the posts is supposed to go, you're committed to pouring a large enough area so that the newly poured piece doesn't just pop out of the surrounding slab when you lift your car.

 

[flesburg]

Check with Rotary Lift. They have minimum requirements.

 

[Jay H]

who did you guys buy your Rotary Lift from?

How much are they charging for installation?

I got a quote for $3975 installed (this includes tax).

thanks,

Jay

 

[logical]

Removed because I wasn't making sense.

 

[Danglerb]

The load from a lift that is of concern is not the force downward from the weight, but the torque and back and forth motion from 7,000 lbs on a 6' long lever. Concrete has crazy high resistance to compression, and fairly **** resistance to tension.

 

[logical]

The load from a lift that is of concern is not the force downward from the weight, but the torque and back and forth motion from 7,000 lbs on a 6' long lever. Concrete has crazy high resistance to compression, and fairly **** resistance to tension.

Ignore my last post...I was thinking 4-post lift for some reason.

 

[d110pickup]

who did you guys buy your Rotary Lift from?

How much are they charging for installation?

I got a quote for $3975 installed (this includes tax).

thanks,

Jay

Jay,
Where are you located and who did you get the quote from?
I'm interested in the Rotary lift also.
Thanks,
Mike

 

[red vette mike]

I had a Rotary 2 post lift installed in the summer of '06. I remember that a lift installation outfit (recommended by Rotary) wanted $481.50 to do the job. This was some of the best $ I spent on the entire garage build. The two installers 'walked' the two posts up.
My good friend worked for Rotary for many years. He was, at one time, responsible for handling all injury claims filed against Rotary. He reviewed some terrible accidents. Some were caused by faulty installation. Good luck.
Mike

 

[red vette mike]

who did you guys buy your Rotary Lift from?

How much are they charging for installation?

I got a quote for $3975 installed (this includes tax).

thanks,

Jay

There was a Rotary 'group purchase' going on this forum about a year ago. The prices were less than what you indicate. Do a search to review this deal (which might have ended by now.)

 

[Jay H]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay H
who did you guys buy your Rotary Lift from?

How much are they charging for installation?

I got a quote for $3975 installed (this includes tax).

thanks,

Jay

Jay,
Where are you located and who did you get the quote from?
I'm interested in the Rotary lift also.
Thanks,
Mike


Mike,

I live in NC. I'll get the name of the company. I spoke with an individual, given to me by an auto shop. Have you checked Reliable Hydraulics? I think they are in Georgia.

 

[Yotaforce]

My friend has a local engineering company and he said I could either go with a 5" slab in the beginning, or, considering I won't really know the exact desired location of the lift until I get moved in and organize my work areas, I could come back with a saw, cut out around the bases, dig down atleast two foot, install rebar reinforcement, pour new footers for the lift, and it should be fine. Even better than a 5" slab mount. Besides, the four inch slab was expensive enough.

 

[brownbagg]

the lift themselveare not that heavy, all the weight is on the bottom, I just stood mine up by myself, not strining at all. Its really easy to intall. 90 % of all the work will be drilling the holes.

 

[Vicegrip]

the lift themselveare not that heavy, all the weight is on the bottom, I just stood mine up by myself, not strining at all. Its really easy to intall. 90 % of all the work will be drilling the holes.

I did the same. Stood up the posts and used strings and a tape measure to get everything right. Then drilled right through the holes in the feet setting each supplied anchor in place but not tight as I went.ONce all the holes were in drilled and fasteners in I leveled up the posts in both dimensions and cranked the bolts down. Bend-pak sent good directions and I am man enough to admit to reading directions. Took about 5 hours working carefuly and enjoying the work. What the heck. I was installing my own lift in my own shop for gods sake!!!

 

[MNDucatiMan]

Due to the weather here thick rebar reinforced slabs are fairly common.

I will inspect the floor of the shop in the house we buy. It looks to be plenty thick and just a few years old since the garage is newer than the house.

Think I will figure out a way to right the columns using the 12k hydraulic winch on my truck and a few buddies. The winch will do the lifting with us stabilizing it.

I am suprised that lift companies have not come up with a pair of rails that run front to rear under each column. They could be bolted to the column then about 10x as many anchor bolts can secure it to larger area of concrete.

 

[Ed ke6bnl]

Due to the weather here thick rebar reinforced slabs are fairly common.

I will inspect the floor of the shop in the house we buy. It looks to be plenty thick and just a few years old since the garage is newer than the house.

Think I will figure out a way to right the columns using the 12k hydraulic winch on my truck and a few buddies. The winch will do the lifting with us stabilizing it.

I am suprised that lift companies have not come up with a pair of rails that run front to rear under each column. They could be bolted to the column then about 10x as many anchor bolts can secure it to larger area of concrete.

You will be surprised it is not as hard as you suspect to get the columns up and when up my boy moved them to there location by himself. ED

 

[LWW]

I am suprised that lift companies have not come up with a pair of rails that run front to rear under each column. They could be bolted to the column then about 10x as many anchor bolts can secure it to larger area of concrete.

This kind of has me surprised as well. If you simply added an "optional" base plate that was 12" wider on all sides, you would reduce the need for 4000+lb compression concrete, probably take it down to 3000lb, but I'd have to break out my old HP48SX to figure it out...

I say optional, as it wouldn't be needed by the majority of the shops that use these and maybe that's why they don't make them... There's just too few hobbyists/residential applications to make it worthwhile for them...

 

[Bruno Molly]

I know this is an old thread and I hate to dig up old bones but if anyone is reading these, I have a 2 post lift I got from Eagle Equipment. They want $450.00 to install it. It came with installation instructions and if all there is to installing is measuring Squaring and measuring a thousand times over I am will to install this myself. I have used a hammer drill a thousand times in various jobs I've had. Installing concrete anchors. When I had my shop built I had them add extra fiber to the concrete, and its 5" thick cause it when they poured it they had to pour extra cause what the finisher ordered wasn't enough... It 3 bay, 29x32 turndown slab with rebar in the footers. The columbs are already standing up vertical I just need to begin the process of measuring, layout, set, levelling and Plumbing up everything before punching holes. My question is has anyone installed their own lift on here? Did you have any issues after you installed it?
I can rent a hammer drill to do the job. $450 bucks just isn't in my budget right now and winter is on it's way. i want to get this thing in before the Barren Cold weather gets here. Last year was the Pits...ti was cold as #$#$@@ last winter. Looking for directions, no no's, must do's etc....
Thanks
-= BM =-

 

[saabman]

In installed my own Bendpak lift. Make sure you shim the columns so that they are plumb. If your lift did not come with "C" shims get some before you start. Some people drill the holes all the way trough the concrete and some dont. The former allows you to push the anchors out the bottom if you ever remove the lift. I did not drill all the way through as I thought there was a danger of water (not sure if this is true though)

 

[Dragster Racer]

Drill all the way through if you can. If you get an anchor that gives you trouble, you can drive it though and get another shot at it.
You can use a cherry picker to get one end onto a stout sawhorse, then lift by hand from there. I just couldn't lift it by hand from the floor. It's probably easier and safer than using the winch.
Don't use the cheapie concrete bits from the hardware store. I bent one of those way too easily, and the hole ended up larger than I wanted. Bought one from Fastenal, and did all the rest of the holes and still have a nice bit.

 

[Bruno Molly]

Ok..Wow! Good info! I didn't expect replies so soon since this thread is so old.
My columns are already vertical..I just need to measure and place them where they are going to be. I used to work in the maintenance dept in 3 manufacturing plants before I switched over to IT...Anchors we couldn't use from moving molding machines, Stamping presses and frame work from assembly lines were Emory wheeled (Shaved / cutoff at the base) yeah it leaves and ugly *** if not flush..but I only plan to drill once. The Anchors came with the lift so I'll use them. If I can get away with it I'd rather not punch all the way thru unless it's necessary..??? I am in NC so Frost line issue and water are much of an issue I guess.. The slab had plastic laid down before they poured the concrete. I'll try to get some pics posted today of everything. stay tuned...
Photos speak a thousand words!!!

-=BM=-

 

[Sebringer]

Hope your not using a regular hammer drill. Use the bigger spline type rotary hammers for a quicker, cleaner hole. The anchors will hold better. Go all the way through with the hole. Some guys use epoxy on the anchors as well.

 

[saabman]

SDS Hammer drill/bits work pretty darn fast.