I have lurked here for years, don’t post much because most of what i do is well beneath the masses here. Today’s Project worked out pretty awesome. I recently bought a used two post lift. When I’ve used them in the past there was a lot of walking back and forth to the control button. I saw guys adding a corded switch, so off to Amazon I went. I found this unit, a remote controlled motor start switch supposedly rated at 40 amps. My 110v lift is only 20 so thought I’d give it a try. Only one I could find with a momentary option. The instructions were garbage on the settings, but there are only so many combos and it does do a momentary run. It needs a neutral to run the switch and I used piggyback spade connectors for the hot wire so my original switch works as well. Worst case, if the remote stops working the original switch still functions. I suppose worst worst case is the thing sticks in the on position. To remedy that, I made my extension cord with a switched plug so I can quickly kill power to the lift. This will also be handy if I add work lights in the future. Hope it helps someone.
Two Post Lift Remote
- Thread starter Bearkat
- Start date
gizardlizard
Well-known member
Pretty cool but your BX armored cable connection gets an “F.” That’s flat out dangerous. Get that thing in a proper J box.
finn
Well-known member
Just curious on how the safety catches work. On my lifts, the safety releases are all located by the motor. How do they unlock from across the room?
Viper98912
Well-known member
So is this a remote control button such as an RF, IR, or wifi signal, or a physically connected wired extension?
I would not personally trust anything wireless, I'd only do a wired extension. You never know when you're underneath the car and it starts moving on you due to some interference signal.
I would not personally trust anything wireless, I'd only do a wired extension. You never know when you're underneath the car and it starts moving on you due to some interference signal.
gizardlizard
Well-known member
Doesn’t appear this device is UL rated. Hard pass
AC-WC
Well-known member
Kudos for the creative thinking but I'm not sure how safe that is.
You're getting good advice from the other posters so don't take it the wrong way. We just want you to be safe.
You're getting good advice from the other posters so don't take it the wrong way. We just want you to be safe.
wssix99
Well-known member
Well, we just saw it on the internet, so it must be legit! (... like the recipes my wife is using to slowly poison me with...)
I am pretty sure there is a reason why the manufacturers haven't "thought" of this and want us to get off the floor, well clear of the load and by the safety releases whenever the lift is moving.
Rod N
Well-known member
When my lift goes up and down I get as far away from it as I can and sphincter is tight. Just saying.
whateg01
Well-known member
Don't the safety switches just need to be over ridden when coming down? Usually it's the going up part where people are trying to watch for stuff that's going to collide. Not that it never happens coming down, just usually up.
I view this in the same way I view the remote on my trailer winch. I want to be in a position where I can see stuff. Did I miss the part where op wants to lie under the car while it's going up and down?
Pretty much... I was just going to let this die, but hate to not respond. It's only going up. I have a safety catch on each side that must be released and then a manual lever to lower the lift. I like to be able to move around while the lift is going up- out from under the damn thing but able to see what is going on and I would never be under it going down, or when the safety catch is released, as covered before. If this part were to fail and not work, zero consequence. If it stuck in the on position, just like the manual switch can do, I have to walk to the power switch which I can do from anywhere in my shop in the time it takes the lift to move 1/2 inch. I appreciate the thoughts, but the lift itself when safely locked in position, the old vehicles that will be on it, and my wife standing behind me are far more dangerous.
CraigStu
Well-known member
Every 2 post lift I have ever worked on used an electric button to raise it by running the pump. It was lowered by opening a valve by pulling a lever to let the hydraulic pressure decrease so the rams could retract. They also had another lever to disable the ratchet locks. All lowering is done at the post w/ the pump because that is where the two levers are mounted. The only electrical part of the lowering process is raising the lift an inch or so off of the safety locks. The OP's original switch still works as it was designed so, other than that one wiring problem I see NO problem w/ his setup.
whateg01
Well-known member
BuT tHaT iSn'T tHe WaY iT wAs DeSiGnEd!
CraigStu
Well-known member
Yeah, I know. But I have never owned a completely stock car in my life. I have never owned a completely stock gun either. 5 yrs ago we moved into our home that we had had built. As much as I tried to plan ahead and have the stuff we wanted installed, I changed out maybe 6 light switches to the exact dimming style we prefer. I made sure the lights were dimmable but I didn't like their switch choices. I changed 3 door locks to combination dead bolts so we never use a key to get in our house. Once we played around w/ various dining table placements for a year, I installed a chandelier. I can't build a house, or a car (except for an FFR cobra replica) or a gun, or lots of other things, but I can mod the heck out of them to get exactly what I want.
BlindViper
Well-known member
What happens when it gets a signal from and lets the lift up or down?
whateg01
Well-known member
Huh?
walta
Well-known member
The way I understand the instructions it is impossible to operate the lift as instructed by the manual with your remote. The instructions say do not go under the car while it is supported by the hydraulics! It is only safe once you have lowered the car back down a little and have it resting on the lock plate.
3.4 Lifting the Vehicle Keep work area clean; don’t operate the lift in cluttered work area. Lower the carriage to the lowest position. Reduce the swing arm to the minimum length. Swing the arm along the route of the vehicle. Move the vehicle to the location between the two columns Swing the arm and put the lifting pad below the recommended lifting point, and adjust the height of lifting pad to touch lifting point of vehicle Press the UP button on the electric control box, slowly lift the vehicle to ensure the load balance, and then raise the lift to the required height. Release the UP button. Push the lowering handle to engage the safety lock of carriage. At this time, the vehicle can be repaired.
Walt
3.4 Lifting the Vehicle Keep work area clean; don’t operate the lift in cluttered work area. Lower the carriage to the lowest position. Reduce the swing arm to the minimum length. Swing the arm along the route of the vehicle. Move the vehicle to the location between the two columns Swing the arm and put the lifting pad below the recommended lifting point, and adjust the height of lifting pad to touch lifting point of vehicle Press the UP button on the electric control box, slowly lift the vehicle to ensure the load balance, and then raise the lift to the required height. Release the UP button. Push the lowering handle to engage the safety lock of carriage. At this time, the vehicle can be repaired.
Walt
whateg01
Well-known member
What makes it impossible? The remote switch is on parallel with the up button.
walta
Well-known member
His remote only controls the up button to turn on the motor he has no way to control the lowering lever to engage the safety locks.
"Push the lowering handle to engage the safety lock of carriage. At this time, the vehicle can be repaired."
Walta
whateg01
Well-known member
Ok. So he releases the button on the remote after he sees that the vehicle has reached the desired height, walks around to the pump, pushes the lowering handle so the lock engages. That doesn't seem too hard. Smh
walta
Well-known member
How is the easier than pushing the factory button?
It is only easier if you never engage the locks.
When a lift hose bursts the car fall fast enough that the locks can not stop the car and it will squash him like bug.
Walta
finn
Well-known member
My issue with the release of the safeties was resolved in that this remote is only capable of lifting the cartridge, and not lowering it.
The other issue is that the contacts have been known to weld themselves together, such that the pump doesn stop while the lift reaches the desired height. There were reports of that happening on this forum. The vehicle crashes into the overhead bar, and the microswitch disconnects the power.
For that reason, hard wired lifts must have an emergency disconnect within the operator’s reach. Corded lifts have a plug that can be disconnected by the operator. Neither of these work if the operator is wandering around on the other side of the car. I guess if the microswitch is adjusted properly it might suffice, though.
Redundancy is your friend here.
The other issue is that the contacts have been known to weld themselves together, such that the pump doesn stop while the lift reaches the desired height. There were reports of that happening on this forum. The vehicle crashes into the overhead bar, and the microswitch disconnects the power.
For that reason, hard wired lifts must have an emergency disconnect within the operator’s reach. Corded lifts have a plug that can be disconnected by the operator. Neither of these work if the operator is wandering around on the other side of the car. I guess if the microswitch is adjusted properly it might suffice, though.
Redundancy is your friend here.
This is it exactly. I can be knelt down, bump the lift up closer to the vehicle, making sure the pads are exactly where I want and even. I can then raise the vehicle a bit and make sure all looks well. After a safety wiggle the remote is unnecessary I suppose. Once again, I never plan to be under it without it sitting on the safety catches.