Type wire in enclosed trailer

[scotty95]

Newbee here, first post. Looking for info to wire inside my enclosed trailer. I already have the waterproof power inlet in and ready to install a 110v outlet for plugging in a fan and a couple flourescent lights inside. What kind,or type of wire should I buy? I need lights that would start in cold weather too. Any info is appreciated and help. I'm not an electrician,thanks Paul

 

[theoldwizard1]

A lot of folks would use plain old Romex. I know it is a lot more expensive, but I would use 14/3 marine wire. It is stranded so it will take vibration better than solid wire. You can buy it by the foot on eBay.

I bought some LED lights that look like a standard 4' shop light. Lightweight and no problems starting at well below freezing this past winter. I got them on sale at Costco for $20.

 

[mike_s]

I just installed two of the Costco 4ft shop lights yesterday. They are bright and great.

I though they would be good for installing in a work trailer also.

I would suggest not using the plastic install mounts, but drill a hole in the top plate and install with a metal screw and washer.

They have an 110outlet on the other end also that you can plug additional lights in (Linkable)

Here they are on their website. THey are $30 each in the store or $20 when on sale.
The light I got has a 5ft cord and not that 6" shortie they show in the pic.

https://www.costco.com/4’-Linkable-LED-Shop-Light-with-Pull-Chain,-2-pack.product.100284402.html

 

[grantw]

...I would suggest not using the plastic install mounts, but drill a hole in the top plate and install with a metal screw and washer. ...

100% this. A trailer is a rough environment when in motion. I'd go with lock washers, nylon lock nuts, and anything else possible to prevent things from falling off during transit. Even a few lose zip ties around your tubes in case they decide to unseat from the tombstones. The plastic shatter-proof tube guards wouldn't hurt either. A trailer is rough ride. The marine wire sounds like a great idea too.

 

[Blk88GT]

I did my trailer in conduit and single conductor solid core wire. No issues after 5 years.

I've never had a lamp fall out of the tombstone either, but I have lenses on all my fixtures to catch them just in case.

 

[mike_s]

100% this. A trailer is a rough environment when in motion. I'd go with lock washers, nylon lock nuts, and anything else possible to prevent things from falling off during transit. Even a few lose zip ties around your tubes in case they decide to unseat from the tombstones. The plastic shatter-proof tube guards wouldn't hurt either. A trailer is rough ride. The marine wire sounds like a great idea too.

I agree.
especially with added zip ties also

the Costco 2 bulb LED shop lights tubes aren't really bulbs. They are just plastic tubes that cover up the CREE LED lights on a 45" or so strip.
I'm sure they act as a difuser also.
( How do I know? I wanted to know so I took one apart )

But much better suited for trailer use as it's a soldered connection and not a twist connection on an old style fluorescent bulb made of glass that will break.

 

[Bondo]

What kind,or type of wire should I buy?

Ayuh,.... Multi-strand wire takes vibrations much better, much longer than solid wire,...

 

[Falcon67]

I used regular MC cable and clamps to hold it on the wall. I'd use the same if running behind the panels or ceiling because the walls are very thin - maybe 1/2" - and you'll be screwing minor tiedowns in various places on the walls/floor if this is for racing and you are carrying misc items. I just surface mounted everything so I could change it up as required. Trailer is wired for 30A service using a generator - been over roads rough enough to knock the RV lights out of the ceiling, no problems with plugs and such.

4' T8s with zero start work, also LEDs work well.

 

[Specracer]

+1 here using EMT. Also gives a more finished look (vs Romex).

 

[theoldwizard1]

The Costco lights come with a 5-6' 2 wire "lamp" cord. I have not had good luck with the "peel and stick" tie wrap mounts (maybe the surface was not fully cleaned), but you could use them to route the cord across the roof or along the walls. The ones I bought (Fein) were designed to be "daisy chained".

Now I am sure people will tell me I am in eminent danger of burning my garage down, but the one cord was about 6-8' too short to reach the outlet. I bought about 10' of black 18 gauge lamp cord at HD and spliced it in the middle. Those wires and plug ARE POLARIZED so watch what you are doing. The current draw is so low on those fixtures, I would be comfortable running that 30' !

 

[mike_s]

Here are my CostCo lights mounted

Drilled a 1/4" hole in the mid section and mounted with a wood screw and washer into a "screw tap" drywall anchor. Simple .... easy ... and much better then using the plaatic screw slots

 

[scotty95]

Would like to add 2-2'x7" led lights. Is 14-2 good enough to light 2 lights and run a fan all at once? Thanks

 

[Falcon67]

Here are my CostCo lights mounted

Drilled a 1/4" hole in the mid section and mounted with a wood screw and washer into a "screw tap" drywall anchor. Simple .... easy ... and much better then using the plaatic screw slots

Very nice. However, that'd last to the first bump in a 24' race trailer, maybe 4000 dry with 3000lbs of cargo or so. One good pothole and they'd be on the floor. Or on whatever was in the trailer. The T8 light in our trailer is screwed to the steel roof framing beams using #12 self tapping screws and fender washers. 1/8" vinvl sheet will not hold a 4' shop light using just screws. Not on the road.

Would like to add 2-2'x7" led lights. Is 14-2 good enough to light 2 lights and run a fan all at once? Thanks

More than plenty. Most stuff like lights and fans pull little current. A/C - #12 minimum. Our 13.5K pulls 21A in 100F temps.

 

[Syberia]

I used plain romex for the 120v wiring in my teardrop trailer. Honestly, you could even use SO cord. In fact, that might not be a bad idea. You're not using it as "structure wiring" and I don't know if the NEC would even apply to a trailer at all, but it's meant to stand up to vibration and movement.

 

[Speedy Petey]

I used PVC conduit. It's super easy to work with and takes some abuse/flexing. I have a shore-power inlet and big inverter at the front with a double-throw switch, GFI receptacle at the front work bench, under cabinet light, 4' ceiling strip with LED tubes, a quad receptacle at the back, and 12V LED tape all over. The only cable is a piece of SJ cord to the overhead light. Everything else is PVC. Looks and works great.