Typical stick built garage vs pole barn?

[BellyUpFish]

I'm looking at building a 30x40 at the next location and have just been brainstorming a little bit..

It looks on the surface, like a pole barn might be a little cheaper? Am I looking at this right?

I'd pour a slab for the pole barn to sit on..

 

[KissMyAxe]

I compared stick to pole about 8 years ago and went with stick to make insulating the building cheaper/easier, 8 years later and I still don't have ours insulated.

If I recall correctly the pole barn will be cheaper by a little but the difference is not that big in the scheme of things. With a stick built you need (I would guess) about a 12" to 24" footer for Alabama. Concrete guys around here are not cheap and adding a footer adds costs for trenching, labor and the concrete itself. Those costs are offset by the costs of the poles a little. If the costs are similar I'd go stick built.

We've built about 8400 sq/ft of stick built metal buildings the last few years and costs here run $11 to $15 sq/ft for the complete shell doing everything but the concrete yourself. That's with 2x6 wall framing, sheeting, outside metal and trim, man door and garage door.

Our 30x40 is a perfect size for several projects if we don't use it for storage.

 

[cj7jeep81]

If you pour a slab (with footers and such), I'd definitely stick build. Pole barns save money by not needing a footer, and sinking the poles in the ground for support.

I'm almost ready to start on my 40x64x16 pole barn, and the price for just the building (no concrete for the floor), and it's coming out to $9.38 per square foot (that's paying someone else to build it). That includes 2 14x14 insulated doors, one entry door, 12" overhang, and laminated columns. Concrete quote takes that up to $12.09 a square foot (again, paying someone else to do the concrete). I plan to do the electrical, inside, etc myself.

 

[BellyUpFish]

If you pour a slab (with footers and such), I'd definitely stick build. Pole barns save money by not needing a footer, and sinking the poles in the ground for support.

I'm almost ready to start on my 40x64x16 pole barn, and the price for just the building (no concrete for the floor), and it's coming out to $9.38 per square foot (that's paying someone else to build it). That includes 2 14x14 insulated doors, one entry door, 12" overhang, and laminated columns. Concrete quote takes that up to $12.09 a square foot (again, paying someone else to do the concrete). I plan to do the electrical, inside, etc myself.

Well, spoke with the wife last night.. In order to obtain the 40x30, it has to match the exterior of the house.. Brick.. So.. There it is.. Wonder if a 40x60 could match the house...

I just need it built. I'll do the electrical and inside myself as well..

 

[cj7jeep81]

That will look nice, but ouch, there goes cheap

 

[BellyUpFish]

Yeh, maybe I can talk her down from the brick....

 

[38Chevy454]

Requiring brick on the outside you will not save using the metal pole barn style. Go with stick built and then all of your inside finishing work will be a lot easier using std materials and products.

I had to match my house exterior, and that was stucco and metal roof. It made stick built the lower cost option on my 26 x 48.

 

[theoldwizard1]

If you pour a slab (with footers and such), I'd definitely stick build. Pole barns save money by not needing a footer, and sinking the poles in the ground for support.

Excellent point !

Personally, I would never put a structural wood post in the ground. I would bore holes and pour piers or use perma-columns probably with laminated wood.

 

[Stevie-Ray]

Mine was decided for me as there are no pole buildings allowed in my township. BUT, I had already decided, in this general area, stick-built was the way to go, as there is precious little difference in price-not like the way it was several years ago, when pole buildings were MUCH cheaper.

 

[BellyUpFish]

Mine was decided for me as there are no pole buildings allowed in my township.

I'll be able to shoot .50 cal off the back porch. These "township issues" will be nonissues..

 

[Stevie-Ray]

I'll be able to shoot .50 cal off the back porch. These "township issues" will be nonissues..

Let me guess. AR-50?

 

[Danver]

Well, spoke with the wife last night.. In order to obtain the 40x30, it has to match the exterior of the house.. Brick.. So.. There it is.. Wonder if a 40x60 could match the house...

I just need it built. I'll do the electrical and inside myself as well..

If she just said it has to match the exterior of the house just put metal on the house.

It's easier to ask for forgiveness than permission.

 

[cj7jeep81]

Excellent point !

Personally, I would never put a structural wood post in the ground. I would bore holes and pour piers or use perma-columns probably with laminated wood.

I have no problems putting the posts in teh ground (assuming drainage is good). Would like to spring for perma-columns on my build, but the budget isn't there. My dad's pole barn has had posts in the ground for 20 years, and we just expanded it last year. The several posts we saw when we opened up looked as good as the day the were put in.

Mine was decided for me as there are no pole buildings allowed in my township. BUT, I had already decided, in this general area, stick-built was the way to go, as there is precious little difference in price-not like the way it was several years ago, when pole buildings were MUCH cheaper.

It really depends on size. For me, a pole barn is going to be significantly cheaper. A footer/foundation would have added at least $7k to my price, which is about a 33% increase over what it's going to cost me. Now, if you want it to match the house (ie, not metal siding/roof), etc, then yeah, stick frame will most likely be cheaper.

 

[BellyUpFish]

Let me guess. AR-50?

Beowulf baby!

 

[bmxdad]

I priced a 24'x36' and a pole building was almost half. Also, there are 100 year old pole buildings with no issues with the poles. I guess it depends on the location.

personally, I like the setup ... full span trusses with no walls. I can stud in how I want and insulate as needed. As for roof and walls, you can put anything you want on them. It doesn't need to be metal.

 

[NUTTSGT]

A few months passed, have you decided which way to go ?

Personally, it'd be stick with a foundation, 2x6 walls with OSB sheathing. Then I'd add some 2x4 "girts" to the outside of the wall, 1.5" of stryofoam and cover with metal siding and add shingles for the roof.

 

[Beemer533]

Beowulf baby!

Nice, makes good deer gun... Well, OK maybe moose! Lots of fun either way.