Tyvek on a Pole Building?

[bullet3z]

First post here so go easy on me.

I am having a Pole Building built by Cleary in the very near future. After lurking around here for a few days. I found a lot of good info and decided it was time to join.

My question is if it is worth doing a Tyvek wrap around the structure before they add the metal? I will have a full concrete floor pored at the time of build. I do plan on finishing the inside of the building. Which will hopefully include, but is not limited to, insulation, finished walls and ceilings, electric and some form of heat.

Also is there anything else I should try to do before the build gets started?

 

[johndeereman]

Re: Tyvek on a Poll Building?

WELCOME TO THE GJ.

But to answer your question it sound's like a good idea.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Re: Tyvek on a Poll Building?

It will cost more, but you will get better results. 1"-2" of spray foam on the tin after is is installed. It is a god vapor barrier and you can add more insulation later,

 

[jack stand]

Re: Tyvek on a Poll Building?

It will keep out a LOT of air and well worth doing esp. if they'll give you a half a day between their framing & metal "phase" of the job, to do it yourself.

 

[SARG]

Re: Tyvek on a Poll Building?

Confusion here.
If he puts up the tyvek before the metal siding ........ then he will be spraying the foam onto the tyvek matl.
Is that a good plan ?

 

[jack stand]

Re: Tyvek on a Poll Building?

The OP did not mention spray foam, just insulation.
Housewrap is completely unnecesary with spray foam.

 

[brownsmustang]

Ive read about spray foam trapping the moisture in the wood and causing rot. I'd go with the wrap.

Scott

 

[CNGsaves]

Too Little Information . . . . without Location and specific insulation plans, this is just way too much guessing.

Welcome to GJ . . . You'll get best advice by providing all information. Update GJ Profile with your City/State/Country.

If I were you, I'd be pre-planning service entrance for electric (preferably underground) so you'd have conduit set in concrete coming up the wall where breaker panel is located. Also put in another conduit for low voltage wires like internet, phone, security, etc. If you've ever considered radiant heat, NOW is time to plan for it so all the process is covered putting loops in concrete. Also, plan for LIFT location so make the concrete thicker there and route the loops around them. Finally, consider anchor pots in the concrete for pulling in inoperable vehicles, etc.

Good luck. Start a new thread in Gallery section of GJ with pictures of the entire build. GJer's just LOVE to see new builds !!

 

[coljar]

My building is tight, but if I had to do it again, I would have used Tyvek.

 

[bullet3z]

Too Little Information . . . . without Location and specific insulation plans, this is just way too much guessing.

Welcome to GJ . . . You'll get best advice by providing all information. Update GJ Profile with your City/State/Country.

If I were you, I'd be pre-planning service entrance for electric (preferably underground) so you'd have conduit set in concrete coming up the wall where breaker panel is located. Also put in another conduit for low voltage wires like internet, phone, security, etc. If you've ever considered radiant heat, NOW is time to plan for it so all the process is covered putting loops in concrete. Also, plan for LIFT location so make the concrete thicker there and route the loops around them. Finally, consider anchor pots in the concrete for pulling in inoperable vehicles, etc.

Good luck. Start a new thread in Gallery section of GJ with pictures of the entire build. GJer's just LOVE to see new builds !!

I am located in SW Pa. I will update my info.

Since I am having Cleary build the building I opted for the Energy Miser building without the insulation package. It would have put the project out of reach at this time. This should allow me to do pretty much anything I want when it comes to finale insulation. The building is 27'w x 30'd x 12'h. The metal roof will have the bubble backing to help with moisture. I do plan on doing at least R19 in the walls. I have yet to figure out how I am going to insulate the ceiling of the garage. I am not really interested in spray foam due to the price.

As for the concrete floor. The in floor heating is not a option due to the location of the poor. The only way this could be done is with a large pumper. So that option was ruled out. I already plan to add 2 conduit lines for power and or cable as needed. I am also going to add a water line and sewage line for future needs. I may never use them but they will be there. 2 floor drains will also be installed.

I am not going with any anchor points. I am not sure if a lift will ever be purchased So I would have no idea where to position the points.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Re: Tyvek on a Poll Building?

Confusion here.
If he puts up the tyvek before the metal siding ........ then he will be spraying the foam onto the tyvek matl.

My suggestion was 1"-2" of spray foam INSTEAD of Tyvek.

 

[Hiball]

Absolutely nothing wrong with polling the community, but don't hesitate to speak with Your Cleary representative, they build everything from garages to residential homes. I suspect they know a few things about insulation and there buildings, OH... Don't forget about Pictures, every Cleary building I've been around has been first rate.

 

[lakeroadster]

Spray foam applied directly to the steel siding on a pole building makes future panel removal very difficult.

So the Tyvek would be a good idea, regardless of foam or not.

 

[Chitown_hillbilly]

What is the cost difference? That would help me decide. FWIW, I never asked the same question and still want to know. I'm pretty sure I would have had the Tyvek done.

 

[bullet3z]

What is the cost difference? That would help me decide. FWIW, I never asked the same question and still want to know. I'm pretty sure I would have had the Tyvek done.

Dupont Tyvek in my area is $57 for a 3'x100' roll or $140 for a 9'x100'. Plus the price of the tape that is $13.99 per roll. So if I did my math right it would be around $300 to do the walls.

I did ask the Sales Rep if I could put up the Tyvek before they put up the metal. He said I could as long as I don't hold up the workers. But he did not feel it was worth doing. I did explain that I am looking to insulate the whole building after they build it. He still did not think it was money well spent.

 

[jack stand]

it would be around $300 to do the walls.

it was money well spent.

There, I fixed it for ya!
Think about how many linear feet of seam your walls will have. Sure they are vertical and will shed water just fine, but that's a lot of potential air infiltration, and (see above).
A buddy of mine built a very similar building to mine and he has ton's of air movement in his finished walls. This shows up as a draft through his electrical "boxes". Fiberglass insulation value's drop quickly with air movement through it. The "R" value is rated in what's called a "hot box" that is sealed. Do a little internet searching on this subject. Again, we're talking about only $300 !

 

[swaterbenny]

On my 40x56x14 I was quoted $2000 to do the roof, and walls. I passed, it's a hobby shop not an everyday making a living shop. My other thought was tyvek won't mean **** when my wife comes home, and opens the door because she forgot I told her I was going in there and turning on the heat.

 

[James-W]

If it were me I think I would go with the spray foam rather than the Tyvek wrap. I am not saying Tyvek isn't a good product, I am just saying that in this instance I believe the spray foam would be a better choice.

 

[pablo94sc]

Tyvek is good for releasing water vapor but not liquid water. If any water condenses and turns to water behind the tyvek it will sit there until it evaporates. You've got a metal building... And what does water vapor do on metal? I would probably use 30# felt (paper) as a wrap if the builder suggests using one.

 

[creativecars]

If it were me I think I would go with the spray foam rather than the Tyvek wrap. I am not saying Tyvek isn't a good product, I am just saying that in this instance I believe the spray foam would be a better choice.

In my experience Tyvek is not a great product. It is EASY and that is why contractors like it. I agree with Pablo, the 30lb felt it a better choice.

 

[jack stand]

Tyvek & felt paper are not comparable. Tyvek is designed to be an AIR barrier while letting water vapor to pass through therefore not creating a possibly 2nd moisture barrier trapping moisture within the wall cavity. While spray foam is the "Cadillac" of insulation and air sealing, for the estimated $300 the OP estimated cost to "wrap" his bldg. the spray foam guy would not even start his truck. That's his point. As to the 30# felt under his metal, that will accomplish nothing and cost a lot more. The Tyvek will compliment his (stated) interest in insulating with F/G at a later time.

 

[rburke65]

If the original poster is torn over spending $300 on Tyvek he certainly isn't going to spend multiples of that figure on spray foam!

 

[Bear]

I used house wrap on my metal bldg. and am glad I did. It is quiter in the rain, cooler in the sun and tighter in the wind. I'd do it again no question!

 

[RPH]

I used tyvek wrap just to control the air infiltration as there is plenty of spaces on the metal ribs to allow it. It's cheap and easy. Do it.

 

[65bam]

I used the insulated wrap on my 30x40 and I have insulation around the wall on the inside as well. Last week the temp in the morning was in the mid 40's and it was very warm inside.

I am very pleased that I had it installed and I don't believe it was very high to do it but I am not sure of the total cost for it.

 

[lakeroadster]

With any luck we'll be putting Tyvek on the wall framing of my pole building this weekend before the steel goes on.

The GC said he has been in numerous steel sheathed buildings that have Tyvek... and during a windy day you can look at the walls inside the building and see the Tyvek slightly ballooning... sealing out the wind.

 

[Rookie2]

There, I fixed it for ya!
Think about how many linear feet of seam your walls will have. Sure they are vertical and will shed water just fine, but that's a lot of potential air infiltration, and (see above).
A buddy of mine built a very similar building to mine and he has ton's of air movement in his finished walls. This shows up as a draft through his electrical "boxes". Fiberglass insulation value's drop quickly with air movement through it. The "R" value is rated in what's called a "hot box" that is sealed. Do a little internet searching on this subject. Again, we're talking about only $300 !

Great answer !
I was one of the first to use Tyvek on a Morton 20 yrs ago. They are tough to insulate and the metal roof has to be insulated . I wish I used shingles !

When you staple it make sure the the staples are in square and seated or they will dent the sheet metal slightly.

 

[air cooled]

I plan to build a pole-barn this spring or summer, and am actually going through the same planning process.

I spoke to my builder about closed-cell spray foam and he said it would be better not to spray it directly against the metal wall panels because if I ever have to replace one of those panels the spray foam on the back would make it very difficult to remove.

He suggested the house wrap.

We also talked about whether it would be better to put the house wrap on the outside or the inside of the wall girts.
Setting the laminated columns first, then wrapping the barn in house wrap (attaching it to the columns), then attaching the girts may be difficult because the house wrap would be unsupported between each column until the girts were installed.
Any wind could make instillation a real pain.

We decided to set the laminated columns, attach the girts, then wrap the building.
the house wrap would be attached to the girts.

I then plan to spray 2" of closed-cell foam against the back side of the girts and the house wrap and fill the rest of the cavity up with insulation.

A friend of mine who is involved in the manufacture of Dow Froth Paks told me the best insulation bang for your buck was two inches of closed cell foam, to stop air mitigation, and blow in cellulose to fill the rest of the wall void.
You could also use 2" of closed cell foam followed by filling the remainder of the cavity with open cell foam.
Filling the entire cavity with closed cell foam would be best but would also be the most expensive.