U-CoatIt Install Problems (anyone else?)

[gyroplane]

So my contractor just finished a U-CoatIt installation (sort of), but it is not great. The problem I think is in the U-CoatIt instructions, and I am trying to figure out if we are the only ones to experience this (thus indicating that it is likely our fault) or if this is a common problem (a fault with the process/instructions provided). Please weigh in.

The issue is, U-CoatIt tells you to install the base coat (with binder), then while wet, sprinkle the grit for traction. Once this has set up, you patch and fill cracks chips in the floor with their UPatch & UFill products, and go over that with the top coat of epoxy, spread color chips if desired, and finish with the clear topcoat. Our problem is that once you have the grit down in the base layer, it becomes incredibly difficult to feather out the patches on the cracks. You can't trowel it smooth, because your knife just skips over the top of the grit.

Ultimately, our small 1/16" cracks ended up being 2" wide scars of UPatch. If you think at this point that the top color coat will help hide and blend things in, I can tell you that the nice gloss only accentuates the issue.

I am trying now to figure out how to proceed, but it is getting ugly. Our contractor says he installed what I asked him to, and followed the instructions, so it's not his fault. I understand his point, but I have a showcase garage that is going to have to be completely sanded down, or completely coated over to the tune of another $1000 in materials +labor.

I haven't come down too hard on U-CoatIt yet, because I am not sure if the flaw was in their instructions, or our execution (although I have talked to them, and they have only offered to sell me more material and have not fessed up to any deficiency or even offered a discount or appology). Certainly, next time, I would put the grit in the top color layer (but below the clearcoat) - and make this suggestion to anyone else that may be headed down a similar path. (But note also, that I think the grit should not be on the very top, it needs to be 'locked in' I think, so if there were no clear, it would need to go under the top color coat).

Again - anyone else experienced this, or are we the first?

Thanks,
-Sky

 

[wildcat12]

Look, U Coat it tries to market PROFESSIONAL floor coating products to be installed by ameratures like your contractor .... I have been betting sine they came on the scene a few years ago that their customer service line would get so overloaded that it might explode ! 100% solid epoxies are not for ameratures !! I have noticed lately that they are trying to get more into commercial jobs where they can probably hire someone like me to do the installs. Email me back with specifics about your problems with your job and I'l be more than happy to help

 

[ironroad 9c1]

either way, you caulk before you start laying the first coat, after the grit is down and a layer of epoxy is down is stupid. the contractor really should have cough that from the start.

 

[AlphaGarage]

First - UCoat-it's basic kit is not 100% solids, more like 42% solids. They do sell a "High performance" 100% solid epoxy, but it's a separate coating that is to be applied on top of their basic kit system.

2nd - "ameratures" are more than capable of installing a quality epoxy floor. We've helped close to a hundred Garage Journal members install good looking, durable, epoxy floors.

Has it been without issues? Of course not. Although not that difficult, a 3 part system is more involved than painting a bedroom wall. But mistakes can usually be handled pretty easily.

Oddly enough the biggest botched job we've had was installed by a painting contractor who'd done quite a few epoxy floors before - go figure.

3rd - I'm going out on a limb here because I'm not that familiar with UCoatit products or installation, but I'm thinking that they've been pretty careful about researching and writing their instruction manual. That being said the order of product application does seem a bit odd.

We recommend prep, patch, prime, body coat, flakes, clear coat with grit.

I guess their patch compound isn't self-priming, but can't figure out why they add grit so early, you'd think that after the body coat is applied over the grit that none of its gritness would transmit to the surface.

How many square feet are we dealing with here? Do you have any pictures?

Could you apply a thin coat - clear or pigmented, then broadcast a medium density of flakes, and then lock it in with another layer of clear coat? Flakes can cover a host of sins, and look pretty sharp to boot!

 

[gyroplane]

Thanks for the feedback. We are trying to 'hide' things with a heavy broadcast of chips, locked in between a couple coats of clear (about $1000 in additional materials at this point, but better than sanding down to concrete and starting over).

To answer some of the questions, the garage is 660 Ft^2 (with another 400 SF of shop space that we haven't got to yet). I think the reason they have you put grit down with the first coat, is because they sell it in a modular manner - and it can be purchased without the clear topcoat. If you were only doing the two color layers, it would need to be underneath the second coat in order to be 'locked in' so would have to go down in the first coat. Since we are doing clear I think we could have put the grit down in the second layer without any issues or problems (and is how I would suggest the instructions be re-written to reflect). The guys that were doing the work were being very careful to follow the instructions, since this was new to them, and this may have been our downfall. Left alone without factory direction, they may not have put the grit down with the first coat. Were it not for this issue, it looked great otherwise though. The painters that were rolling it on, who had lots of experience with other products, but not UCoatit, said that this was MUCH thinner than what they were used to FWIW.

It is also worth noting that the clear goes on VERY clear. It is very difficult to see what has been covered, and how evenly. You must be very meticulous to get this on without missing a spot.

Wish us luck (and I am still interested to hear from anyone else that has had experience with UCoatIt - good or bad).
-Sky

 

[Hammerdown]

I have used rustoleum, behr, qwikcrete, u coat it, and sherwin williams brand products over the last 15 years for installing epoxy floors and working in the building trades. I have found that some are better than others, and I personally like the u coat it system since it really cuts the "down" time between prepping the floor and applying the product, and I like that it is applied damp to soak into the concrete. I have found that patching anything- from dryway to concrete really depends more on the applicator than the product. Why would you try to feather a 1/16" crack to 2" inches? Fill the crack and wipe away the excess, you want as little material as it takes to fill the area, not more. I remember a dry wall crew I worked with- I was what I considered "seasoned", proficient (I Thought) and good at my job. Well, these guys who had years of experience on me just blew me away. They did such a good job patching the seams and screw holes that there was hardly a need to sand them. I mean we were using the same materials and there patching looked great w/o sanding and mine had more material were feathered out and needed more sanding and work to blend in. It took more effort on my part to achieve a simialr appearance to what the could do in an instant. anyway I digress- I just know that with patching anything- less is more. Hope your floor turns out well. Hope any of this helps- Have an enjoyable and safe Independence Day!

 

[AmericanEpoxyFloors]

Trying to patch or fill over the top of a coat with grit in it just makes a mess, as you have seen. If the instructions specifically call that out, then the problem is with the instructions and not your applicators.