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ucoat it application help

mxnmtber

New member
Joined
Nov 21, 2006
Messages
2
Guys. I'm going to do the ucoatit medum gray with heavy granite flake and the clear coat.

Ucoatit says to only do the muriatic acid wash. I have light oil stains that don't bead up with water, but i can still see the discoloration after degreasing (haven't done the acid wash yet).

I am considering doing the diamond bit abrasive grinder to get a mechanical bond. I can rent the machine for ~$200. Any suggestions or other tips/tricks would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Wardrum

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2006
Messages
243
Location
Wisconsin
If the water on the stains does not bead, you are good to go after the etching. I have done 3 garages using UCoatIt and I had stains in 2 of them and they turned out fine after the degreasing and etching. The medium gray should hide minor stains. I strongly recommend using the "AF" version of UCoatIt.

Most importantly, though, is to make sure you don't have any moisture wicking, and no sealer on the concrete. To find if you have a water problem, place a piece of plastic on the floor and tape it down. Remove it after 24 hours +/- to see if the floor under it is wet. If it is, you will waste your money coating the floor. And if you have a sealer on the floor, you will need to grind it enough to get a mechanical bond.

If you are using their "Fleks", you should get enough traction to eliminate the need for the non-skid material they send with each kit. If you still want to use the non-skid material, use it sparingly or the floor will be very difficult to sweep. I found that the best way to apply the Fleks is to throw them as high into the air as you can and just let them fall into the final color coat, then apply the clear over them after the color coat is dry.

UCoatIT's pot life is not very long so it would be best if you had someone working ahead of you doing the detailing. Also, watch the temperatures if you are in a cool climate area. It is best not to try to apply it if you expect it to get below 58 to 60 degrees while drying.

One final suggestion....apply the base coat like they tell you to but apply the color coat and the clear coat heavier than they recommend. Don't roll the clear coat out very much to try to stretch the coverage. You will get a much shinier finish that way.

Hope some of this helps. Good luck :thumbup:
 

JBL

Well-known member
Joined
May 19, 2006
Messages
63
My wife and I spent in excess of 20 hours prepping the floor per directions. We had the same situation where a several areas would bead up regardless of what we did. We cleaned, scrubbed, acid etched, used several solvents per thier advice over the phone and were told to go ahead. As indicated, put the first coat down without big concerns as to density of coverage; the second coat you want to put on heavy and make sure you minimize your rolling. The big thing, especially with the clear is to not make any dry roller marks. One time, maybe two maximium. The clear is very hard to see so it is good to have someone spotting for you. Wear metal golf spikes, that way you can actually walk into the paint if you need! One other thing, seperate the flakes and make sure they do not glob together. The floor is slick when wet, even with the flakes but the sand makes it tough to clean. I suggest some well placed commercial floor mats to solve the problem. I found some on ebay for small money and they worked perfectly.

In my case the paint did not adhere and we had to have it scrapped up. If I were to do it again, I would definitely have the surface mechanically prepped either by blasting or grinding and would not attempt it on my own.
Obviously others have had very good luck and my situation is probably unique. The company is however very good and they put out an excellent product.

Oh, one other thing. Be very certain you don't have the moisture issue. I understand they have a kit at Lowes to check this now. I used the plastic test like is described above, but go the extra mile and be certain.
 
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Hammerdown

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 28, 2005
Messages
596
Location
The Motor City
Typically you don't have to grind the floor for UCoat application. If you have cleaned and degreased the floor so water can absorb in, you should be good to go. Don't do the acid wash ahead of time because you actually apply the first coat of UCoat to a DAMP concrete surface. So after it's cleaned, rinse the floor in the prescribed acid solution and repeat. Rinse completely! Too much water is not enough when washing away acid residue. If you do decide to grind the floor- be ready- grinding the floor will significantly increase the porosity of the concrete and cause you to use more products. Purchase more than you need if you grind the floor, you don't want to run short in the middle of the job.
 
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mxnmtber

New member
Joined
Nov 21, 2006
Messages
2
Thanks for the info guys...good stuff :bowdown:

BTW, anyone have the coupon code for the ucoatit? Thanks.
 
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