BLUE72CAMARO
Well-known member
So when I was getting ready to pull the trigger on new lighting for my back shed I struggled to find info on what others had used and how they had installed the dimming circuit. Since I mentioned I was using Duo Romex wire in another thread I have had a few members contact me asking how I used it so I thought I would make a thread about it.
DISCLAIMER:
I am not an electrician nor am I in an area where I have to have this work inspected, so use my methods at your own risk. I live in a rural area and this wiring is better than 99% of what I have seen in farmers barns and sheds around here but again I am not a trained professional nor do I play one on TV when it comes to electricity.
Lights and layout:
So after a lot of looking around I finally decided to go with Hyperlite Hero 150w UFO lights. They and several other brands were very helpful in figuring out layouts.
https://hi-hyperlite.com/collection...hero-black-4000k-5000k?variant=31821953531967
I dont use this shed a lot except for storage and working on cars occasionally in the part my lift is located. I wanted to not only be able to use the dimming but to also split the shed in two zones. Below is a quick layout I did with spacing roughly at what all the lighting manufacturers I talked to recommended. The blue and red circles represent the lights and which circuit they are on. One other thing of note is the door in the lower right is a enclosed walkway that connects to my shop. Edit: Just realized I left out a bit of somewhat critical info when it comes to the light layout, the lights are roughly 13' off the concrete when all is said and done.
Hardware:
For wire I decided on using NM-B-PCS-Duo 12-2 cable which has the low voltage cable combined in one package to the 12-2 romex.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwi...SIMpull-NM-B-PCS-Duo-Cable-67962801/312600203
For switches I used these cooper switches while I am not the biggest fan of their configuration they work well and weren't outrageously priced for a proven product.
The wire above fits in 3/4" staples perfectly.
I also bought these plugs that I found on Amazon to use for the low voltage connections.
I used one end to connect to the low voltage wire in the box and soldered the opposite on to the dimming lead of all the lights to make it where if/when I have an issue I can disconnect the light and take it down without having to open the outlet box up or unwire anything.
Finished Product:
This shows how I hung the lights and added a hole in the side of the box to get the low voltage out via the connector above.
Finished product looking into the shed from the overhead door. These lights are amazing compared to the old 4' t12's this building has had since I bought the place 10 years ago. You can see all the new lumber that was added to hang the lights or run the wire between fixtures in a somewhat efficient manner. I bought a 200' roll of wire and had 3' leftover when done. That was a little to close for comfort for me to be honest.
Hopefully this helps a few guys down the road figure out what they need to install these lights.
Matt
DISCLAIMER:
I am not an electrician nor am I in an area where I have to have this work inspected, so use my methods at your own risk. I live in a rural area and this wiring is better than 99% of what I have seen in farmers barns and sheds around here but again I am not a trained professional nor do I play one on TV when it comes to electricity.
Lights and layout:
So after a lot of looking around I finally decided to go with Hyperlite Hero 150w UFO lights. They and several other brands were very helpful in figuring out layouts.
https://hi-hyperlite.com/collection...hero-black-4000k-5000k?variant=31821953531967
I dont use this shed a lot except for storage and working on cars occasionally in the part my lift is located. I wanted to not only be able to use the dimming but to also split the shed in two zones. Below is a quick layout I did with spacing roughly at what all the lighting manufacturers I talked to recommended. The blue and red circles represent the lights and which circuit they are on. One other thing of note is the door in the lower right is a enclosed walkway that connects to my shop. Edit: Just realized I left out a bit of somewhat critical info when it comes to the light layout, the lights are roughly 13' off the concrete when all is said and done.
Hardware:
For wire I decided on using NM-B-PCS-Duo 12-2 cable which has the low voltage cable combined in one package to the 12-2 romex.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwi...SIMpull-NM-B-PCS-Duo-Cable-67962801/312600203
For switches I used these cooper switches while I am not the biggest fan of their configuration they work well and weren't outrageously priced for a proven product.
The wire above fits in 3/4" staples perfectly.
I also bought these plugs that I found on Amazon to use for the low voltage connections.
I used one end to connect to the low voltage wire in the box and soldered the opposite on to the dimming lead of all the lights to make it where if/when I have an issue I can disconnect the light and take it down without having to open the outlet box up or unwire anything.
Finished Product:
This shows how I hung the lights and added a hole in the side of the box to get the low voltage out via the connector above.
Finished product looking into the shed from the overhead door. These lights are amazing compared to the old 4' t12's this building has had since I bought the place 10 years ago. You can see all the new lumber that was added to hang the lights or run the wire between fixtures in a somewhat efficient manner. I bought a 200' roll of wire and had 3' leftover when done. That was a little to close for comfort for me to be honest.
Hopefully this helps a few guys down the road figure out what they need to install these lights.
Matt
Last edited:
