To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Ugh.. Another idiot asking "What air compressor/sand blaster???"

To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
T

Tom2

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
2,209
Ended up having to go the HF route.

93608.gif


Went to Tractor Supply. They had a Clarke cabinet for $329. Looked pretty good. They wouldn't take the HF 20% off.

So, back to HF. Comparing the two - they are very very similar. The HF may even be slightly beefier.

Ended up being about $250 out the door. About $100 less than the Clarke would have been.

I probably would have ended up spending 3 days and $200 in materials building my own anyways..

I can always put a better seal on the door for this one, and simply silicone the heck out of every single seam.


Will any of these filters be decent?
It's $135..Very much on the pricey side..But says specifically for sandblasting.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/...es/air-compressor-filters/air-cleaner-3315030


$30 for this one. Much more affordable.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/...city-3-8-in-fnpt-port-connection-type-3433838

The HF ones looked like junk.
 
Last edited:

shovel

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 26, 2008
Messages
477
Location
Port Neches, Texas
Tom2, I have the same cabinet. Mine doesnt leak like others have fussed about. You do need more light than the pos one that comes with it. I wired up an industrial style fixure in there and about half the time illuminate my work with a reflector lamp through the top glass. One more tip. Ty-wrap the drain gate shut. I had to learn the hard way. Twice! Good luck and keep us posted
 

OccupantRJ

Well-known member
Joined
May 15, 2009
Messages
11,074
Location
Eastern North Carolina
Painting the unit white on the inside will help greatly with being able to see. The white paint on the inside of the one at work, which is used daily, has held up for over 25 years, with only a worn spot where the grit hits regularly.A dust extractor is needed on a blast cabinet, or you won't see much for long at a time.

RJ
 
OP
T

Tom2

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
2,209
Tom2, I have the same cabinet. Mine doesnt leak like others have fussed about. You do need more light than the pos one that comes with it. I wired up an industrial style fixure in there and about half the time illuminate my work with a reflector lamp through the top glass. One more tip. Ty-wrap the drain gate shut. I had to learn the hard way. Twice! Good luck and keep us posted

Ha! Good tip.. I probably would have made the same mistake.

I've heard the light *****.. We'll see how it works out when I get it assembled. Either tonight or tomorrow.

Even if it did leak, Enough silicone should seal up anything - except the door.
The sheet metal is pretty thick, the inside is a good size, etc.. Overall, good bones - just probably needs minor improvement.
 
OP
T

Tom2

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
2,209
DSCI0039.jpg




So, I think I just need the electric, air hose, drier..Should be good to get started.
 
Last edited:
OP
T

Tom2

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
2,209
Hmm. Wow - It came with a mount kit too.. That's good. Basically just square cuts of metal and some rubber pads. I've got some thicker heavy duty rubber I add with it. Should have some anchor bolts as well. Says in the instructions not to tighten the anchor bolts all the way. That makes perfect sense.. Always figured that using hockey pucks and bolting them down tight would be almost pointless.

No idea how to get the thing off the pallet though.. It might just have to stay like that..Probably a little quieter though if bolted down.

Instructions pretty well ****. They were printed in '06. My model isn't anywhere in it..Just general stuff.
 
Last edited:

D.J.

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 16, 2009
Messages
1,116
Location
New Haven IL
Re: Ugh.. Another idiot asking "What air compressor/sand blaster???"

Tom2 sweet looking units, good luck and stay safe!:scared:
________
Kitchen Measures
 
Last edited:
OP
T

Tom2

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
2,209
Yep. I got a shop vac plugged into it right now (you can kinda see it on the left of the cabinet)

I think I need a filter for the cabinet though. On the back right there is a vent. So, I guess if you run the vacuum - It wont be efficient if you plug the vent. Probably wont get too much dust if the vacuum is on non-stop. So I'd like to find a filter for it.

Just back from more buying.. Got 50ft of 3/8 Goodyear rubber air hose, a Kobalt filter for $30 from Lowes, 25 pounds of 80 grit glass beads, the correct male plug-in for the outlet by the compressor, and a 30A breaker to replace the 50A.

If all goes well, should be using it tonight..
 
OP
T

Tom2

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
2,209
Hmmm.. I guess HF doesn't have the best price on glass bead.. I paid $25 for 25 pounds.

Tractor Supply has 50 pounds for $35.

Pretty surprised since HF is always cheaper.


Hmm..And the filter is only rated for 150psi max.. I think everyone I looked at was rated the same. Guess I'll have to keep the compressor turned down a bit.
 
Last edited:

djd99

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2009
Messages
1,006
Location
Owosso,Michigan
Tom2 Would you please let us know how this cabinet performs, I've been looking for a good sandblast cabinet and didn't want to break the bank buying one and this looks like it might be exactly what I'm looking for. I would like to not have to use my pressure pot all the time when I want to blast a small item. If you would it will be appreciated.
 
OP
T

Tom2

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
2,209
Definitely.. Heading out to the garage right now to do the final hookup.
 
OP
T

Tom2

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
2,209
Finally fired it all up.


All I can say is WOW. The air compressor is VERY loud. Much louder than I expected.
Probably louder than the 33gal Craftsman oilless honestly..


Had to hard wire it to an old 20A breaker I had. Bought the wrong 30A.. But, it should be ok with 20a. I think the motor is 16a. Worst case is that it'll trip, then I'll just up to a 30a at that point.



I didn't have time to put the filter on. Just quickly ran the 3/8 hose to the blast cabinet. Was anxious to test it..

Worked ok.. Didn't **** up the media as good as it probably should have. Tried a few different tips.

The cabinet didn't leak at all as far as I could tell - as long as the vacuum was on of course. Otherwise you would atleast need a filter or plug on the back hole.


Anyone suggest a good blasting media for rusted cast iron?

Is this stuff any good?
3905403.jpg


It's a whole lot cheaper than glass bead.



This is Garnet.. Never heard of it.
3987714.jpg


.50c per pound


Tractor supply also has another gun:
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/sandblasting-tools-accessories/sandblast-gun-with-hose-3434614

Wonder if it's any better than the factory one with the HF cabinet? Still uses ceramic tips though..
 

Friartuck

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 13, 2007
Messages
123
Location
Monmouth County, NJ
Glass Beads (Glass Shot) should only be used on aluminum. Glass breaks down easily and doesn't have the sharp edges to blast away rust. Use Aluminum Oxide for rusted surfaces. While more expensive, it doesn't dissintegrate as easily. The black Diamond appears to be too coarse for your cabinet blaster. The black diamond is really meant for a pressure blaster. Don't know about the Garnett stuff. Check with Eastwood for an explanation and buy from Tractor or HF. And their is walnut shells that is intended for soft metals like brass.
 
OP
T

Tom2

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
2,209
Gotchya..

This **** is expensive.. I may try to the black diamond since its like 1/10th the cost. Some home Depots have sand marked for sandblasting.. I may try it as well. Need to find something cheaper that can get the job done.

Yea, I was blasting again against cast iron with the glass beads this morning. It takes forever to get an area down to bare metal.


Seems to need pretty high pressure to work well. The compressor will go up to 180psi, then drops to about 130 when it kicks on.

You get a good 4-5 minutes of blasting before the compressor kicks back on. Then it's basically best to wait 2-3 minutes for it to build back up.

Still havent tried aluminum yet.

Ear protection is a must standing next to the compressor..
 
Last edited:
OP
T

Tom2

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
2,209
Well, I definitely need something more abrasive.

The glass bead puts a nice polish..but it isn't getting crud off anything. Tried it with an aluminum intake. They have a factory paint/powdercoat that wears off..The glass bead won't take it off unless you hold it right on top of every single spot for a long time.
 

Friartuck

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 13, 2007
Messages
123
Location
Monmouth County, NJ
Tom2,

What you're experiencing is PRECISELY why I suggested a pressure blaster for the type of parts you're trying to blast and clean. Doing it outside on a tarp so you can sweep & recover the sand. And yes, using clean dry sand is the cheapest route. You can also use sand in the cabinet as well. For my cabinet work, a part does not go into it until it has been chemically paint stripped and completely free of any grease. I think of the cabinet as the final step, not the beginning.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
T

Tom2

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
2,209
Well that *****..

I'll try the black diamond.. See what results I get.. Then maybe I'll hook a pressure pot to the cabinet and see if that provides enough power.

We have too much snow outside to do anything - precisely why I needed a cabinet.
 
OP
T

Tom2

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
2,209
Just got a new HF ad.. They lowered the price of the cabinet to $219!! That's a big difference.

I'll stop in later to make sure I get the the difference back.. So, $219 with 20% off.


I knew everything I bought would soon go on sale right afterwards! lol

110lb pressure pot for $100, and a 20lb one for $56.
May grab one of those while I'm there..
 
Last edited:

djd99

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2009
Messages
1,006
Location
Owosso,Michigan
Just got a new HF ad.. They lowered the price of the cabinet to $219!! That's a big difference.

I'll stop in later to make sure I get the the difference back.. So, $219 with 20% off.


I knew everything I bought would soon go on sale right afterwards! lol

110lb pressure pot for $100, and a 20lb one for $56.
May grab one of those while I'm there..

Wow that is a really good price how long is the sale good for I won't be by HF till monday. As for what media to use I mostly use Silica sand for sandblasting it's pretty coarse and will do anything from rusted steel to rusted cast iron and I've even used it for blasting carbs and softer items. My dad used to own a sandblasting business and only silica sand was available at the time. That was almost 20 years ago.
 
OP
T

Tom2

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
2,209
I think for at least a month.

Just back from HF and I got about $75 back. So, around $190 with tax.

Even if I don't use the cabinet often, still worth having at that price.


Didn't get a pressure blaster though..Bought some course black diamond from Tractor supply. It doesn't make much of a difference - and the finish looks like ****. Maybe this air compressor just aint moving enough CFM to get the job done..


Now hopefully HD lowers the price of the compressor I got, and they still do the 20% off.. I'm sure the price will come down sooner or later. I just hope they do a sale in the next few weeks.
 
Last edited:
OP
T

Tom2

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
2,209
Rigged up the pressure blaster to the cabinet.


Seems to have a little more power. Only goes to 125psi though.. I think if it could run from 125-175psi it would be much much more effective.

I let my compressor run it up to 125psi and the pressure pot safety valve shot open. Scared the **** out of me..


The gun isn't very maneuverable in the cabinet - so I may need a smaller replacement. It leaks air even when closed as well.

All in all I'm still pretty disappointed. I really thought it would blast stuff clean much easier. Maybe this compressor just isn't providing enough CFM..

I was using glass bead in the pressure pot. I'd like to try the black diamond..but it's pretty sooty/dirty.

Any other abrasive material that's pretty cheap? Maybe I can still use glass bead to polish stuff, and something more abrasive to strip them first.
 
Last edited:

A_Pmech

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2007
Messages
8,002
Location
IL
You need to choose the right blasting media for your application.

Just like a sander is capable of running 60-grit or 2,000 grit sandpaper, a sandblaster is capable of running many different medias. Some cut much faster than others. Glass beads are mainly designed for deburring machined parts and light cleaning.

To remove paint you want a much more aggressive media, such as silica or equivalent. Use proper respiratory protection!

Have a look at the selection of abrasives TP Tools sells:

http://www.tptools.com/dg/183_Abrasive-Blasting-Media.html

TP Tools also has an abrasive comparison chart that includes time to clean certain surfaces.
 
Last edited:
OP
T

Tom2

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
2,209
Thanks..Yea, I know silica sand is a big no-no..but sheesh..I'm definitely willing to try it now. Will just wear a mask and open up the garage. The cabinet is pretty air tight with the vaccum on.
 

djd99

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2009
Messages
1,006
Location
Owosso,Michigan
Thanks..Yea, I know silica sand is a big no-no..but sheesh..I'm definitely willing to try it now. Will just wear a mask and open up the garage. The cabinet is pretty air tight with the vaccum on.

My dad has a unit a little bigger than your Hf model and all he uses is silica sand so as saying you shouldn't use it I would disagree. He sandblasted for 20 years and wore nothing but a cheezy face respirator and never once had breathing problems, he's now 80 and going strong still using silica on a regular basis. When I pickup my Cabinet I will also be using silica for 98% of my Blasting. No worries here. Don't be afraid to use it just respect the media and happy blasting.
 

Friartuck

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 13, 2007
Messages
123
Location
Monmouth County, NJ
Tom2, You can use regular play sand ($3.00 per bag) in your pot and turn down the pressure to 40-50 pounds. Sift it before putting into the pot, clogs are a pain to clear out. One small peice of gravel is all it takes to screw it up. This should work, its not rocket science. I've got proably 50 hours of blasting cast iron and steel using a pressure pot. Perhaps posting some pics and maybe we can spot something.
 
OP
T

Tom2

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
2,209
Yea, I already had one clog and had to drop the bottom valve and drain it. It was because I was using old glass bead. I was asking for trouble for not sifting first..

Will pick up some play sand and a sift screen today.

I used our kitchen colander to sift last night :lol_hitti ..it was all I could think of..

I am definitely wishing I had found a 20cfm compressor..Would have been another $800 from HD.. Maybe if I see it or another on sale for less I can swap.
 

OccupantRJ

Well-known member
Joined
May 15, 2009
Messages
11,074
Location
Eastern North Carolina
Yea, I already had one clog and had to drop the bottom valve and drain it. It was because I was using old glass bead. I was asking for trouble for not sifting first..

Will pick up some play sand and a sift screen today.

I used our kitchen colander to sift last night :lol_hitti ..it was all I could think of..

I am definitely wishing I had found a 20cfm compressor..Would have been another $800 from HD.. Maybe if I see it or another on sale for less I can swap.

Hell, for another $800, get a second compressor, and run them together as needed. CFM is like cranking amps on a car battery. You aren't gonna have too much. I run my blast cabinets at 80-100 psi. The surfaces you are trying to blast are not going to just wash off. It takes a concentrated effort. In fact, it gets tiring real quick.

RJ
 

shovel

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 26, 2008
Messages
477
Location
Port Neches, Texas
Tom2,
I've been away from the 'puter fro a couple of days. Sorry to hear you are having problems. I have used the Black Diamond stuff from TS and silica sand with excellent results. The Black Diamond is a little dirtier product though. I use an old window screen to filter my sand. The kitchen collander will work fine if the wife doesnt know. I have been reading about using the pressure assist setup with the blast cabinet, but I have been pleased with the results of the siphon set-up, so I have been reluctant to change. Good luck and keep posting. I think you are about to figure this out.
 

A_Pmech

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2007
Messages
8,002
Location
IL
I think you'll find it works a lot better once you learn how to use it and find a media that works well in your application. I have an IR SS-3L, which is a 3HP single-stage compressor. By my estimation I've run about 5 tons of Unimin Industrial Quartz though that little farm store pressure pot.

Completely stripping the Do-All V-36 of four coats of paint, including all the interior nooks and crannies by sandblasting took around 24 man hours. By commercial sandblasting standards that's slow with a capital S, but it was faster than using a chemical stripper and a wire brush. The point is, your setup will work fine within it's capabilities.

Here's what it can do:

sandblaster1.jpg


sandblaster2.jpg


26.jpg


34.jpg


35.jpg


36.jpg


After finding some suitable abrasive for your work, the first thing to do is tune up your pressure pot. There's a valve underneath it to regulate the media flow and a second valve after the water trap on the back to regulate the air flow though the venturi. Set the pot pressure at 90PSI and open the air flow valve fully. Close the media valve completely.

Now, open the nozzle valve and point it at a workpiece. Slowly crack the media valve on the venturi until you hear a change in pitch from the air exiting the nozzle, then crack it just a little bit more. Too little media reduces the cutting speed. Too much media also reduces the cutting speed. Experiment to find the optimum location of the media valve for your application.

Make sure you're using the correct nozzle size. My nozzles start out about 3/32" ID and I find that size about right as it allows the compressor to hold approximately 75PSI during prolonged work. As the nozzle wears air consumption will rise and if you're compressor limited as I am, the pressure at the pot will drop. When it does, take a break for a few minutes and swap nozzles. The short style nozzles I've been buying are good for about 8 hours of continuous blasting.

I think the setup you have is fine for what you want to do. You just need to spend a little time tuning it up and optimizing it for your work.

A word on abrasives:

I like silica sand. I use it by the pallet load because it's really cheap, easy to obtain and it cuts fast. However, the same thing that makes silica a great abrasive also makes it a health hazard. Respired silica can lead to silicosis, which is not a trivial health problem. OSHA does not recommend anything less than a supplied air breathing system for using silica outside of a cabinet, which is what I use. Dust masks and common respirators DO NOT provide sufficient protection according to OSHA. Other abrasives are capable of causing similar problems, however their mode of operation is different.

It is generally good practice to pipe the exhaust from a blasting cabinet outside or recirculate it though the cabinet. Think of the vacuum as a dust pump. Not everything is captured by the vacuum's filter and what isn't captured is blown out into the shop in a big cloud. Most of these particulates are too small to see, but not too small to cause damage.

:thumbup:
 
Last edited:

krooser

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2005
Messages
2,377
Location
Waupaca, Wisconsin
Tom,

You're finding out the hard way that buying "hobby" tools gives you "hobby" results...

CFM's AND pump speed is important... the lower the pump speed the quiter the compressor. The US General compressor would have been quieter than your Husky... an Eaton even quieter. I own a AMC-BelAire which is the same as the 80 Gal US general... it's not silent but bearable.

The HF blast cabs have **** for guns/nozzles... buy a better quailty gun and you'll be happier.

The Black Diamond meadia is coal slag that comes from coal-fired power plants... it's dirty but effective.
 
Last edited:
OP
T

Tom2

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
2,209
Great replies. Very much appreciated.

I picked up a couple bags of play sand and a screen from Lowes this morning.


I definitely think I can get better results with more tuning. Finding the right media flow rate on the pressure blaster takes some practice.


I just can't help but wonder if I had a 20+ CFM compressor.. Then maybe a basic siphon setup in a cabinet (without a pressure pot) would work much more effectively.

But again, getting some better tuning, and using a pressure pot.. I think I can achieve pretty good results.


Definitely regret buying this compressor though. I wouldn't buy it over again. It's just way too loud, and I'd like more CFM. And the price really wasn't anything spectacular. It'd be one thing if I got it for like $400 off CL, etc..

If I keep playing around with everything and am still disappointed overall - I may end up returning the compressor.. :( Definitely don't want to since it would be such a hassle, and money lost from delivery, etc.. But I'm not gonna hang onto something I'm not totally pleased with..
 
Last edited:

35mastr

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 6, 2007
Messages
2,534
Location
Norcal
Tom If the compressor is not up to par and is too loud. I would take it back and get a better unit. Cfm's are the key to compressors.
 

djd99

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2009
Messages
1,006
Location
Owosso,Michigan
Tom If the compressor is not up to par and is too loud. I would take it back and get a better unit. Cfm's are the key to compressors.

Agreed cfm is key when is comes to any kind of blasting, My compressor is 20 cfm and I still use my backup compressor when I use my pressure pot. I like to run 150 psi when blasting and still sometimes i have to stop and wait a xouple minutes for the pressure to build up.
 

charger

Active member
Joined
Mar 27, 2008
Messages
30
Location
NL. Canada
Tom2, i don't think the compressor is the problem, i have a cabinet that looks similar to yours and the gun will not pick up the media. My compressor is a 5 hp 2 stage 80 gal. Devair and it puts out around 20 cfm's, the gun that comes with those cabinets is useless. I also have a 10 gal. pressure blaster that works good with sand but it has to be screened and dry, i have also used the pressure blaster with a 3 hp 15 gal. craftsman compressor and it worked just as good as it do with the bigger compressor, except you have to stop and wait for it to catch up. I am looking at a gun from TP tools, S-25-M $44.00 the only problem is i'm in canada and that price will almost triple for me, i got my cabinet and pressure blaster from Princess Auto which i think is the equivalent of HF.
 
OP
T

Tom2

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
2,209

What kind of gun is that? Just looks like a ball valve with a ceramic tip on the end.. I like that.. I'll probably steal that idea. Much better than the big over sized awkward gun that came with the pressure pot. Pretty much impossible to maneuver it inside the cabinet especially.

Should pick up several of those ball valves as I imagine they wear out quite a bit with the media flowing through them.

I wonder if the large (5/8 or 3/4) rubber line from the pot to the nozzle can be downsized. That also makes it kind of hard to maneuver and I wonder if that lessens the efficiency being such a large diameter. Maybe not since it all comes down to the tip size..
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom