Ugh! Door Height Time Critical Question during framing

[revamped]

So CLOPAY recommended I change my right door height to either 10'x8'9" or 10'x10'6" to keep both doors 21" panels and keep the windows across in the same panel. Garage height is 16ft ceiling and the bay in question is the lift bay not the RV bay. I already have the RV bay at 12x14, but that is not the side with the lift.

I feel they are both acceptable... but I might not be thinking about something... its only $275 more for the taller door.
See link for build and pic for perspective.

Thanks for your rapid comments!

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

This probably isn't a direct answer to your question, but...

I don't like windows in my garage doors-

 

[maxpower_hd]

I'm not sure exactly what the question is but if it were me I would go with the taller door. You MIGHT want to get something in your garage that is taller than the door. You will ALWAYS be able to get something shorter in.

 

[bczygan]

THEY want you to get the bigger door for looks?

Tell them to reduce the up-charge to zero and they can feature it on their website.

 

[revamped]

This probably isn't a direct answer to your question, but...

I don't like windows in my garage doors-

I am looking for light, and with 21" panels there should be plenty. Putting them high on the door places them 7ft up on the short door top panel, so I could frost them if I am concerned about peeking.

I'm not sure exactly what the question is but if it were me I would go with the taller door. You MIGHT want to get something in your garage that is taller than the door. You will ALWAYS be able to get something shorter in.

Thanks, I'll be more direct. Which door should I choose based on the look of the building and fact that I have plenty of headspace. I'm thinking lifted trucks, service trucks, closed utility trailers on the lift for maintenance, etc. It looks like either door works for lifted trucks, just not sure if there is something someone has run into wanting to use their lift on and their door was too low at 8'9"....

 

[revamped]

THEY want you to get the bigger door for looks?

Tell them to reduce the up-charge to zero and they can feature it on their website.

Lol, no, HD called in my quote as a 12x14 and a 10x9. They called back and said if I want the windows to match height on both doors I would need to change the 10x9 to a size for 21" panels or the windows will look wonky. CLOPAY doesn't care either way, they are looking out for the customer because Millworks at HD doesn't fully understand what they are doing on non-standard doors.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

I get their perspective, a lot of people want a symmetrical look.

So, the question is- "Do YOU want a symmetrical look?"

 

[94EG8]

It's your money, but in the grand scheme of things it's not really a lot of extra money, and it will look better, and does off a little extra utility. If it was me I think I'd spend the extra $275.

 

[Trey T]

^YUP exactly!!!!

 

[matt_i]

I would want the extra height door. That might drive you into a jackshaft opener due to the long length of a standard opener track. Not saying its good or bad, but just something to think about.

 

[Colin Len]

This seems like a no-brainer to me. $275 is a drop in the bucket considering the size of your project (I'm assuming this is a new construction build).

1) Taller door = more options for the future, personally taller the better so long as it's not too tall that it looks out of place or possibly allows in more sunlight than you want
2) Matching doors = mandatory design element so it doesn't look retrofitted, ghetto, mismatching...etc

As for windows, I love windows in my garage doors. I had 4 frosted ones installed vertically (instead of horizontally) in my door and love how it looks.

 

[MoonRise]

Go for the taller 10' 6" door. Spend the extra $275.

 

[revamped]

Thanks everyone. Just confirmed that going 10'6" doesn't affect my shear wall strength (only changing the width does) so going taller. Might be weird that the door is 6" taller than it is wide as compared to the 12x14, but even if I have one project that benefits from it... its worth the $$$. Both doors operated with 8500 Jackshaft openers and using 15" radius tracks with a high lift kit on the 10'6 door to tuck it high and clear the lift.

Thanks for everyone's backup!
Revamped

 

[bjcouche]

Here's another thought, if you make the shorter door taller, it will have the effect of making the taller door look shorter. I would go with the taller door. That cost is minimal.
I have windows on my doors and they are higher so you can not see out them. The doors are insulated, but the glass is single pane, so there is poor insulation factor caused by the windows. Also the windows are poorly installed in the door panel and they leak water badly whenever it rains. The water runs down the outside of the door, hits the window, travels through the window frame, and then drips down the inside of the door. Not Clopay, but another major mfg. I simply haven't taken them apart yet to properly seal them.

Brian

 

[wssix99]

CLOPAY doesn't care either way, they are looking out for the customer because Millworks at HD doesn't fully understand what they are doing on non-standard doors.

YOU ARE DOING THE RIGHT THING. I feel your pain here. Definitely do the talking to Clopay. HD has access to knowledgeable reps there, but much is lost in the telephone game... (My order was a disaster - fortunately Clopay bent over backwards to get things right.)

Thanks everyone. Just confirmed that going 10'6" doesn't affect my shear wall strength (only changing the width does) so going taller.

That wall shouldn't take any major loads due to the way your trusses are arranged, but you might loose a little wind resistance - but I'd think the big door would really govern that. Your engineer would need to confirm, but I'd be surprised if making the smaller door taller or not changes your structural design at all until you get up to the same height as the taller door.