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Ultrasonic cleaner - recommendations please

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Davefr

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Thank you.
I was looking at a 10L one with 240W usonic power and 250W heating power for under $200.


A 250W heater with a 10L tank is real wimpy. Try to get at least 500 watts with that tank size or it'll take all day to get the bath to an effective cleaning temp.
 

macgee

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A 250W heater with a 10L tank is real wimpy. Try to get at least 500 watts with that tank size or it'll take all day to get the bath to an effective cleaning temp.

+1

Biggest obstacle using a u-cleaner is waiting for it to be warm enough, I always regret running the u-cleaner when its still warming up because I'm impatient.

I know you have a budget but something to think about, especially living so far north (burrr).
 

laser3kw

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+1

Biggest obstacle using a u-cleaner is waiting for it to be warm enough, I always regret running the u-cleaner when its still warming up because I'm impatient.

I know you have a budget but something to think about, especially living so far north (burrr).

I waited - the first time. The next time, I dumped hot water in it and used the heater to keep temp.
 
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eljay

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I wondered the same... just boil water in a kettle and dump it in the tank.
 

macgee

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I waited - the first time. The next time, I dumped hot water in it and used the heater to keep temp.

I wondered the same... just boil water in a kettle and dump it in the tank.

Both quotes just reinforced what I said. Whats the difference in time between the two? Aside from the added hassle dealing with hot pots of hot water, its extra steps, just turn on the U-cleaner heater and go post on GJ or something while getting rid of your coffee, it will be well ready when your done. Besides, heating up tap water is not the best way to go for u-cleaning but it can be done, distilled water is way better for your toasty warm item, it's mega cheap and less hassles to deal with your item that hard water on it after pulling the item out, for example; personally I would avoid using tap water to clean your injectors or carbs.
 
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joeturbo

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A degreaser called Buckeye Blue cut in half with water works well in my heated ultrasonic. It seems to have a mild acid in it.
 

Davefr

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I wondered the same... just boil water in a kettle and dump it in the tank.

Assuming your time is worth nothing to cook nearly 3 gallons of water and transfer it into the US cleaner. In addition you might have a special cleaning solution in the cleaner that you want to re-use. (some cleaning solutions can be quite expensive).


It's all a tradeoff.

There is one other solution. Before I purchased my Elma P120H, I had a L&R 3 gallon unit w/o heat. I added a 500 watt titanium aquarium heater and a temp controller. It was very effective at getting the bath heated fairly quickly.
 

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n8n

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Did you buy it on Ali or somewhere else? Can you list the make/model?

+1

Biggest obstacle using a u-cleaner is waiting for it to be warm enough, I always regret running the u-cleaner when its still warming up because I'm impatient.

I know you have a budget but something to think about, especially living so far north (burrr).

I have the opposite problem... just running mine makes it heat up and I primarily use it for cleaning LPs, I do not want to warp the vinyl! I always watch the temp display and double check with an IR thermometer to be safe. If it gets too hot I'm done for the day.
 

Super Mech

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I’ve got an old HF one. By old I mean this thing is made out of stainless steel. Entirely. Mechanical controls, heavy, and rectangular shape. I bought it used years ago. Maybe holds a few quarts in the tank. Works well for me. I use simple green and water.
 

laser3kw

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Both quotes just reinforced what I said. Whats the difference in time between the two? Aside from the added hassle dealing with hot pots of hot water, its extra steps, just turn on the U-cleaner heater and go post on GJ or something while getting rid of your coffee, it will be well ready when your done. Besides, heating up tap water is not the best way to go for u-cleaning but it can be done, distilled water is way better for your toasty warm item, it's mega cheap and less hassles to deal with your item that hard water on it after pulling the item out, for example; personally I would avoid using tap water to clean your injectors or carbs.
Yes if you want boiling water, there would be extra steps and wait times. My ultrasonic heating temp range is 68° to 180°, so anything above 180° is not possible from the internal heating element.
My hot tap water comes out at 130° which is plenty hot for starting ultrasonic cleaning. My hot tap water offsets any wait time of waiting to heat up cold water with the heating element.
 

isb cornbinder

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macgee

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Yes if you want boiling water, there would be extra steps and wait times. My ultrasonic heating temp range is 68° to 180°, so anything above 180° is not possible from the internal heating element.
My hot tap water comes out at 130° which is plenty hot for starting ultrasonic cleaning. My hot tap water offsets any wait time of waiting to heat up cold water with the heating element.

Okay, you mean you dilute your bath every time you want to heat up the Ultrasonic cleaner by adding more hot tap water to it? How many times do you do that before changing out the bath or do you empty it out after each use or just your ok with making a weaker bath as you go?
 

laser3kw

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Okay, you mean you dilute your bath every time you want to heat up the Ultrasonic cleaner by adding more hot tap water to it? How many times do you do that before changing out the bath or do you empty it out after each use or just your ok with making a weaker bath as you go?

Ok - I finally figured out what your getting at. You are assuming I leave the same cleaning solution in the ultrasonic year around (or until it is no longer good). I do not. My ultrasonic sits in an unheated garage and has to survive 0° temps for a few months. It gets used maybe a handful off times a year.
I mix my solution - many times it is water based - every time I need to do a cleaning job. After I am done, I drain and clean the tank. I also do not use the same solution all the time. If I use something like 30% vinegar, which I may want to heat, I use the zip lock bag method in hot water.
 
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eljay

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So, it's decision time:

10L with 400W heater (240W Usonic)
Or
30L with 800W heater (600W Usonic)

Now, is bigger always better?
I just wonder if I would be wasting a lot of fluid and energy for small stuff.
I do have an old engine on a stand that I will be rebuilding. And the intake valve cover and oil pan would fit inside the 30L unit! I guess I could even clean the engine block if I turn it and clean it in sections, but perhaps the middle couldn't be submerged even if the ends can be.

Besides that, I would be cleaning the carburetor and other small bits from it.

I also have a BMW VANOS unit that would be a candidate for cleaning.

Then I would clean only rarely as I disassemble some suspension parts like wheel hubs and maybe brake calipers.

So, I'm really debating between these two options.
 

Davefr

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So, it's decision time:

10L with 400W heater (240W Usonic)
Or
30L with 800W heater (600W Usonic)

Now, is bigger always better?
I just wonder if I would be wasting a lot of fluid and energy for small stuff.
I do have an old engine on a stand that I will be rebuilding. And the intake valve cover and oil pan would fit inside the 30L unit! I guess I could even clean the engine block if I turn it and clean it in sections, but perhaps the middle couldn't be submerged even if the ends can be.

Besides that, I would be cleaning the carburetor and other small bits from it.

I also have a BMW VANOS unit that would be a candidate for cleaning.

Then I would clean only rarely as I disassemble some suspension parts like wheel hubs and maybe brake calipers.

So, I'm really debating between these two options.

An 800 watt heater on a big 30L unit will be pretty useless. 3X the capacity of the 10L unit with only 2X extra heat wattage. It'll take a looong time to get the bath temp. to an effective cleaning temp. (140F is usually close to the sweet spot)

I'd pick the unit with the capacity to clean the size of your parts. Keeping in mind that all parts to be cleaned should be in the middle of the bath. (ie at least 2" from bottom and all sides). Sure, you can leave half of the part sticking out the top and then reverse it. Whatever you do, just don't let any part touch the bottom of the unit. (it'll act like a jackhammer to the transducers).
 
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eljay

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Thank you.
I've watched and read more reviews and it's becoming clear that all of these Chinese units on the market do not even meet their advertised specs and also support your comments on taking forever to heat up.
Here's someone testing the actual power of the 30L unit I was considering:
Ultrasonic power advertised: 600W
Actual: 456W
Heating power advertised: 800W
Actual: 480W
Quote from the video:
"As I suspected, the ultrasonic mode is only 456w and the heater is only 480w. It takes 4 hours to heat up room temperature water from 30c to 60c."

So, maybe I need to resort to getting the right tank size (leaning towards the 30L still) and install an additional heater as you did. That's en extra $100 for the heater then. :(
Or I start my US journey with the wimpy built-in heater, use hot tap water to get a start on heating and use containers to immerse parts into a solution. Once I get to bigger parts that need the whole tank, yes, I'd have to boil 8 gals of distilled water to get a head start or invest into an aquarium heater. Hmm...
 
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eljay

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prior to my ultrasonic, if I needed hot water for cleaning, I used somethng like this:

bucket heater (link)

You can use a simple 120v timer with it to turn it off at a certain point.
Thank you. That's another good option.
I wonder if I can use one of these to heat up the solution and they remove it and whether the measly 500w heater would maintain the bath temp reasonably high for rhe 20-30 min cycle.

30L would be overkill size for me most of the time, so I plan to store it filled with distilled water pretty much always (to avoid dumping out 30L every time) and sumberge small things in glass containers as needed.
 

Davefr

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Thank you. That's another good option.
I wonder if I can use one of these to heat up the solution and they remove it and whether the measly 500w heater would maintain the bath temp reasonably high for rhe 20-30 min cycle.

I'm sure it would. Don't forget that ultrasonic action also produces heat.
 

laser3kw

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Thank you. That's another good option.
I wonder if I can use one of these to heat up the solution and they remove it and whether the measly 500w heater would maintain the bath temp reasonably high for rhe 20-30 min cycle.

30L would be overkill size for me most of the time, so I plan to store it filled with distilled water pretty much always (to avoid dumping out 30L every time) and sumberge small things in glass containers as needed.

Sure you could - even use a pair of them if you want a faster warm up time. I would unplug mine and pull it out of the bucket and lay it down to cool. The water / cleaner would stay hot for a long time.
 
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eljay

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I'm sure it would. Don't forget that ultrasonic action also produces heat.
Ah, yes, good point.

What's a minimum amount fluid to run in these? Would half fill be sufficient without damaging anything?
 

n8n

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Thank you. That's another good option.
I wonder if I can use one of these to heat up the solution and they remove it and whether the measly 500w heater would maintain the bath temp reasonably high for rhe 20-30 min cycle.

30L would be overkill size for me most of the time, so I plan to store it filled with distilled water pretty much always (to avoid dumping out 30L every time) and sumberge small things in glass containers as needed.

My 10L tank will heat up with use, with the heater turned off. As I mentioned before, I use it for cleaning LPs so I would like it to maintain a warm but not hot temp; a long session will get it hot enough I'll quit for the day to avoid warpage.
 

Davefr

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Ah, yes, good point.

What's a minimum amount fluid to run in these? Would half fill be sufficient without damaging anything?


It might depend on the unit, but I wouldn't let the fluid level drop more then a couple inches from the full line.

These are highly tuned circuits and the load (ie water level) is one of the critical parameters.
 

Rinspeed

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My 10L tank will heat up with use, with the heater turned off. As I mentioned before, I use it for cleaning LPs so I would like it to maintain a warm but not hot temp; a long session will get it hot enough I'll quit for the day to avoid warpage.





Shouldn't hurt anything with the transducers but the heat is most likely mounted to the side of the tank. If you run it with the water level below the top of the heater bad things will happen. Some of the cheaper units use a rubber heater and they are fairly wide.
 

isb cornbinder

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My 10 and 30 liter ultrasonic units came with instruction on the fill level. The instructions suggest "Damage will happen if the level of liquid is lower.
I bought my two ultrasonic units and after filling them with cold water, turning them on I set the temperature and started to clean parts. The water was hot to the touch in a few minutes. The ultrasonic action and the heater both add heat.
Rather than using glass jars, ZipLoc bags work better. You can use the cleaning agent or solvent inside the bag and leave the water clear.
Like the Ronco Showtime Rotisserie commercial said, " Set it and forget it." Easy stuff.
 

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bugnut

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isb is on it. Fill with water then parts in solution and bagged. If water color changes toss the bag and change thewater. Evaporust usually gets double bagged.
 

Davefr

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Rather than using glass jars, ZipLoc bags work better. You can use the cleaning agent or solvent inside the bag and leave the water clear.
Like the Ronco Showtime Rotisserie commercial said, " Set it and forget it." Easy stuff.


No, plastic absorbs/attenuates ultrasonic energy. Glass is a much more effective secondary container.
 
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eljay

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My 30L is inbound! :)
Thanks for answering my dumb questions so far, more dumb questions to follow as I start learning hands-on.
 

isb cornbinder

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No, plastic absorbs/attenuates ultrasonic energy. Glass is a much more effective secondary container.

I must be very lucky, because my plastic ZipLoc bags work really well.
I derusted some old square head bolts from about 1883. The accelerated Evaporust action had the bolts and nuts done in less than 10 minutes.
I am not comfortable with glass because of the way ultrasonic works. I have to think this may raise the possibility of the glass shattering. I am reminded of the commercial for recording tape. Is it live or is it Memorex?
 
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eljay

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No, plastic absorbs/attenuates ultrasonic energy. Glass is a much more effective secondary container.
That makes sense to me as well that rigid material transmits vibration better.
 

macgee

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I vote for Simple Green Extreme Aircraft. It's totally aluminum safe and very well regarded in the aviation world. I really like it.

Not nearly as expensive as pro solutions that can be $60-150+ per gallon (11 liters) like Branson GP solution in Canada and others.

I would be very leery using Awesome as a solution for aluminum in a U-cleaner, its very cheap but caustic to breathe especially when heated and can eat aluminum. Fine for surface cleaning but then I found others that work just as well.
 

M6erfan

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I vote for Simple Green Extreme Aircraft. It's totally aluminum safe and very well regarded in the aviation world. I really like it.

Not nearly as expensive as pro solutions that can be $60-150+ per gallon (11 liters) like Branson GP solution in Canada and others.

I would be very leery using Awesome as a solution for aluminum in a U-cleaner, its very cheap but caustic to breathe especially when heated and can eat aluminum. Fine for surface cleaning but then I found others that work just as well.

Well, kind of. Read the label. It is safe at dilution ratios of 13:1 or greater.

It's great stuff

BTW, Totally Awesome has a pH of 11-12. SGPA has a pH of 10-11.5. Not a huge difference in alkalinity.

I've never used TA Degreaser.
 
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