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Undercabinet lighting

Pingel85

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Currently redoing the office in my house and I ran feeds and a switch for under cabinet lighting. ive used led tape lighting for this in the past and it's worked great. I've always plugged in a low voltage transformer and ran to the tape. I don't have a problem doing that again but wondering if there's a better way. I found a 12 volt 60watt xfrmer small enough that would fit in a single gang but would place in a 2 gang for air space. If I installed this in the box I could put a blank cover and only have the low voltage coming out of the wall. Would you be concerned with the cooling aspect of having it in the wall vs exposed in an outlet? Total draw would be approx 30w. How have others done this to look clean?
 
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Bert_

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Put a switched outlet above the cabinets. Plug/wire your power supply in up out of sight. Run the low voltage wire down and poke it out at the bottom of the cabinets.

This is how I've been doing all the kitchens I've wired lately, works well. I've put the transformer under the sink or in the basement but above the cabinets is nicest if possible.
 
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Pingel85

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Put a switched outlet above the cabinets. Plug/wire your power supply in up out of sight. Run the low voltage wire down and poke it out at the bottom of the cabinets.

This is how I've been doing all the kitchens I've wired lately, works well. I've put the transformer under the sink or in the basement but above the cabinets is nicest if possible.

That is how I roughed it in (switched plug below desk) just when I found the xformer that I could hardware and hide I was just trying to think if there was a better way.
 

JRC3

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You could just put an outlet inside the cabinet, it could also be used for other things in addition to the transformer like a charger or TV. This was done to hang a TV on a swing bracket to the side of the last wall cabinet. I also plan to use it for under cabinet lighting. If I was to do it from scratch the outlet would be recessed instead of the shallow box.
 
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ddawg16

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Having done both fixtures and LED tape.....tape wins out big time.

I attach it to the backside of the front lip of the cabinet. This way the light shines back AND down. Makes for more uniform lighting with less shadows.
 

Reit38

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I'm wanting to use the tape style. How do you go about splicing and connecting 2 separate runs ?

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
 

wssix99

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The professional solution is to install a "LED supply junction box" that separates the low and medium voltage components, per code. The 120V comes into the high side, and then your low voltage comes out the other side and then can be run through your walls:

lo-pro-junction-box-2_2.jpg


I've usually seen these installed in a corner base cabinet, or something out of the way. The catch is that typically, you'd want to plan for this before drywall.
 
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Pingel85

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I'm wanting to use the tape style. How do you go about splicing and connecting 2 separate runs ?

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

They do make pre made ends that you snap on to the end of the tape and then plug your low voltage wires into. Otherwise, I've always just soldered the low voltage wires onto the end of the light and then the wires can be wirenutted or crimped together.
 

ddawg16

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The tape comes with cut marks. Typically, you have 3 sets of LED's per section (for 12v tape). They have a line across a set of solder pads. I cut to length....soldered a short section of 16g speaker wire on it. Crimped a Molex connector on the other end....and ran the mating connector back to the PS

Let me know if you want a pic.

I love the tape.....it lets you run a section of tape the full width of the cabinet instead of having to settle on incremental size lights.
 

Bert_

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They do make pre made ends that you snap on to the end of the tape and then plug your low voltage wires into. Otherwise, I've always just soldered the low voltage wires onto the end of the light and then the wires can be wirenutted or crimped together.

^ this,

When I started installing this stuff several years ago I used the connectors. I have had to go back several times to deal with loose connections, not impressed with the connectors. Now I just solder a lead wire onto the strip and wirenut it to the wire coming out of the wall. It takes a little more time but I know I won't have to go back.
 

machsnell

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The tape varies widely in price. Any sources for good quality "cheap" tape?

I guess if ul listed all is well?

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Jim greengo

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Put a switched outlet above the cabinets. Plug/wire your power supply in up out of sight. Run the low voltage wire down and poke it out at the bottom of the cabinets.

This is how I've been doing all the kitchens I've wired lately, works well. I've put the transformer under the sink or in the basement but above the cabinets is nicest if possible.
:beer::beer::beer::beer:
 

ddawg16

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Put a switched outlet above the cabinets. Plug/wire your power supply in up out of sight. Run the low voltage wire down and poke it out at the bottom of the cabinets.

This is how I've been doing all the kitchens I've wired lately, works well. I've put the transformer under the sink or in the basement but above the cabinets is nicest if possible.

That is exactly how I did mine.

I used 16g speaker wire.....it's clean....color coded....thick insulating layer....easy to run
 

Bert_

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Stay far away from the cheap stuff on amazon, ect. I did that in my parent's kitchen thinking I would save some money, 16' roll for $25. That was about 4 years ago and they have dimmed a lot. I would guess they are 60-70% as bright as they were when new. In the lighting word that would be considered end of life.

I get the "Diode Led" brand from an electrical supplier and I have had no complaints about that. It's around $10 a foot for the 2.8 watt/foot version.
 
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Pingel85

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I have purchased the $15 roll off amazon and love them. I only went with white and not the multicolor, and I do not dim them. I actually put a set in my truck cap here in Wisconsin and they have worked well for several years. The only issue is the adhesive is weak so I reinforced it with 3m automotive tape.
 

Raisedonadeere

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I have purchased the $15 roll off amazon and love them. I only went with white and not the multicolor, and I do not dim them. I actually put a set in my truck cap here in Wisconsin and they have worked well for several years. The only issue is the adhesive is weak so I reinforced it with 3m automotive tape.

I bought 4 rolls off Amazon about 4 or 5 years ago, something like $13-15 per roll and some connectors, 2 warm spools and 2 cool spools, crazy backward terminology, works for the technician but people who do other things have to stop and do a mess of thinking to sort it out, just me ranting, but anyway turns out the daylight ones were what my wife liked in the kitchen. There were already almost concealed switched outlets under the cabinets for some existing fluorescents one of which always buzzed, replace one then another until finally I said enough and then one I replaced whereby I went on a LED craze for the whole house which worked out using Costco bulbs. Yea $6-7/bulb.

The LED strips were the ticket for light under the cabinets, and they worked perfectly at least until we sold the house last summer.
One qualm though is that the bricks that power them stay warm and I suspect that the energy efficiency is not good, maybe better than incandescent. But it was cheap and it worked and made a big improvement in the kitchen because it was uniform everywhere. I kept intending to put them on a watt meter to see but really they worked so well I just did not want to know. I suspect the bricks will burn out first but maybe not.

The florescent nuisance drove me to it but it was the was low cost installation of the LED strips that sealed the deal, but at $10 a foot as Bert_ posted is out of line with me, for that particular use. Perhaps he is pulling our legs. I have about 23 feet I want to light in two different rooms in my new house, for under $50 not $230, Just saying. And thanks Bert for posting that, reality may set in and that is where I wind up using my soldering iron and speaker wire to hold line on cost. I do like the idea of a solid installation.

And I do know that the Amazon stuff is hit or miss. I have had several LED bulbs just start flickering and go out and my RV LED light have been a constant hassle and it is cheep Chinese stuff being pawned off on us at ridiculous prices because we pay it. I bought another string off Amazon for my RV to use just the same way as in house but a lot more work getting in in all the right places only to have some of the lights start flickering. And I had paid careful attention to get strips with the correct drivers for voltage variation from RV 12 volt power.

I really am interested it finding a supplier who will filter the junk for me and of course charge a fair price, and it will not be $10/foot for residential purposes. commercially it is worth it if truly installed and done.

If you want to make fun of me for splurging on $7 bulbs just be forewarned that It was just 3 or 4 bulbs at first for the stay on all the time ones and others as the prices kept coming down, and a few other defenses I can line up. Every time the price dropped I would throw another bulb or two in the cart. That way it is not real money, just play money.
 
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Bert_

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I'm just sharing my experience, the stuff I got off Amazon is essentially dead in less than 5 years use in a residential kitchen.

$10/ft really isn't as bad as it sounds. If you where buying individual fixtures they would probably be over $20 a piece for a 2' light

If you find a reputable brand that actually lists a spec sheet for less I wouldn't be afraid to buy it, but the no name stuff is junk.
 
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Raisedonadeere

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I'm just sharing my experience, the stuff I got off Amazon is essentially dead in less than 5 years use in a residential kitchen.

$10/ft really isn't as bad as it sounds. If you where buying individual fixtures they would probably be over $20 a piece for a 2' light

If you find a reputable brand that actually lists a spec sheet for less I wouldn't be afraid to buy it, but the no name stuff is junk.

I certainly agree that it is a jungle out there and I know your information is correct. My rambling was just to point out that the cost of new fixtures was just not on my immediate horizon with so many things taking money but the $30 strip upgrade was a play money thing that actually turned out really well. The lighting is ideal - but the frustration comes after a success, but when they eventually fail or you want to add on or do another project, what do you replace them with. Life can get overloaded with all the **** that comes our way and so as far as money in the long run it would be best to just go for the proven stuff.


Some days I just feel lucky and get lucky but 1 success out of 5 makes it hard to continue feeling lucky. I am going to keep watching our for reputable brand.
 

engineer2

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I put outlets in for under cabinet lighting, but I want fixtures rather than tape lights. I see lights come in lengths like 12", 18", 24", 36". The problem is, kitchen cabinets are recessed underneath, so take about 2" off of those dimensions. Apparently the Chinese guys who designed them are not familiar with American style kitchen cabinets. Anybody aware of any fixtures that are about 10" 16" or 34"?
 

ddawg16

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I put outlets in for under cabinet lighting, but I want fixtures rather than tape lights. I see lights come in lengths like 12", 18", 24", 36". The problem is, kitchen cabinets are recessed underneath, so take about 2" off of those dimensions. Apparently the Chinese guys who designed them are not familiar with American style kitchen cabinets. Anybody aware of any fixtures that are about 10" 16" or 34"?

Trust me....you would be a lot happier with LED Tape....

Inlaws have under cab lights....lighting is sub-par....and they stick down too far
 

engineer2

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Do you make cut in the bottom sides of the cabinets to hide the tape where it jumps across to another cabinet?
Is there tape with diffusers so you don't see the dots?
 

ddawg16

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Do you make cut in the bottom sides of the cabinets to hide the tape where it jumps across to another cabinet?
Is there tape with diffusers so you don't see the dots?

I cut a small notch...easy with a multi tool...you only need about 1/8".

I mounted my LED tape against the backside of the lower face frame. The light from the LED's shine towards the back splash. Hence, the lighting is diffused quite nicely. No glare from the counter top.
 

dcg9381

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Chevy-SS

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Old thread, I know, but relevant to me now.

How does the tape stick to the underside of cabinets? That surface does not look like it would be able to allow any type of tape to stick. Do the LED strips actually stick, or are you guys using glue or epoxy to hold the strips in place??

Thanks
 

signcrafter

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The tape has decent stick to it but in cases where it doesn't stick that well I have used additional two sided tape. Have used this one before, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0723F4Y3Q/?tag=atomicindus08-20. I also have this tape gun that is really nice when you can use it, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071R98DMJ/?tag=atomicindus08-20. I have used both of these to put the led strip lights on. I have them in my enclosed trailer on the ceiling and also have them in the bed of the truck up under the sides.
 

ddawg16

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Old thread, I know, but relevant to me now.

How does the tape stick to the underside of cabinets? That surface does not look like it would be able to allow any type of tape to stick. Do the LED strips actually stick, or are you guys using glue or epoxy to hold the strips in place??

Thanks

Valid question....

In my case, the tape was good....and my cabinets new, so no oils from the cooking. If it's older cabinets, I'd give the surface a good clean using a good degreaser

And/or, you could use a hot melt glue gun. I used one to cover the pads where the wires were soldered.
 

kabinenroller

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There is some good information here, but I have a question that no one else has asked.
What is the preferred method of connecting LED strips between cabinets that are across the room from the main run of cabinets? Our kitchen has cabinets either side of the range/microwave, and the sink, and also some uppers that are on the opposite wall. Would it be correct to attach a “jumper” wire from one run of strips into the basement and comes up the other side of the room to feed the strips on the opposite wall? What type of wire should be used? Stranded I would presume. Hopefully I explained this so your are able to understand what I am asking.
Thanks
 

ddawg16

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There is some good information here, but I have a question that no one else has asked.
What is the preferred method of connecting LED strips between cabinets that are across the room from the main run of cabinets? Our kitchen has cabinets either side of the range/microwave, and the sink, and also some uppers that are on the opposite wall. Would it be correct to attach a “jumper” wire from one run of strips into the basement and comes up the other side of the room to feed the strips on the opposite wall? What type of wire should be used? Stranded I would presume. Hopefully I explained this so your are able to understand what I am asking.
Thanks

That is pretty much my kitchen setup.

When I did my last remodel, I installed an outlet above one of the cabinets that was connected to a light switch.

The power supply for the lights plugs into that outlet.

I used speaker wire to connect all the LED lights together. To get across the room, I ran the speaker wire under some molding.

To get to the bottom of the cabinets, I drilled a hole in the top corner of the cabinet and ran the speaker wire down the inside corner. In most cases, it was the front inside corner, so you don't see it.

I'm using 16awg speaker wire....it's all DC....and those LED's don't pull much current.
 

pioneer1

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Kansas City, MO
Old thread, I know, but relevant to me now.

How does the tape stick to the underside of cabinets? That surface does not look like it would be able to allow any type of tape to stick. Do the LED strips actually stick, or are you guys using glue or epoxy to hold the strips in place??

Thanks

I have used this(https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company...002385+3293194218&preselect=3293786499&rt=rud) with ALL my led strip lights. Clean with alcohol first then apply a thin layer of the primer.

Have never had any come loose.
 

yeldogt

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You can get various junction boxes to house the LED driver -- the long ones are around $30. If it's inspected you can not have flying splices -- and if you have a dimmer it's easy to just wire it all together .. with a real dimmer switch.

There is a lot of variables w/ tape lights .. it's hit or miss. Many are too blue for me ...
 

JRC3

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There is a lot of variables w/ tape lights .. it's hit or miss. Many are too blue for me ...
Gotta look at the Kelvin ratings.

kelvinscale.jpg


As my eyes get older I'm really liking the 3000K instead of the classic 2700 incandescent for living room, bedroom, etc lighting and around 4000K for work areas. Anything else is just too blaring. Haven't decided what to do for under cabinet lighting. I'm about to redo the kitchen so I'll have to decide on 3000K or 4000K because the kitchen is both a living and work space.
 
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