Understanding different type 2x4 wood
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PassnThru
Well-known member
Google search this 'spruce pine versus whitewood'.
rancherbill
Well-known member
Jokingly in wood grades here, there is #1, #2, Stud, and firewood. Spruce stud grade here, has knots, blemishes and is really prone to warping. There has to be a reason the other is more expensive. I would go for it.
southalabama
Well-known member
Whatever you chose hand pick it.
Leaflessshadetree
Well-known member
I'd go with the cheaper ones and either hand pick or buy from a lumber yard where I could trust them to hand pick.
They will be fine for your use.
They will be fine for your use.
jblnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
When I need only a few pieces of lumber I go to Menards. When I need a bunch I order it from my local lumberyard and they’ll usually deliver it next time they’re in the area for free. They’ll almost always throw on 10% more than I need so we can return some and/or not be a piece short.
You’ll never regret getting nicer lumber and for sure hand picking it if you get it at a big box store. You’ll save more in frustration than it’ll add to the actual cost by getting nicer stuff.
You’ll never regret getting nicer lumber and for sure hand picking it if you get it at a big box store. You’ll save more in frustration than it’ll add to the actual cost by getting nicer stuff.
Rusted Nut
Well-known member
For non load bearing framing, which I assume this is, go with Spruce/Pine. Easy to work with, doesn’t split like Hemlock.
Old tool guy
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SPF … whitewood … has become the interior wood of choice. Lighter, cheaper than traditional studs. OP is east of the Rockies … SYP … pine … should be easy to get.
cmandp
Well-known member
The whitewood studs are generally higher quality (i.e. straighter) in my experience. That's all I buy for any non-structural framing. I don't have time to dig through the whole pile of even the Douglas fir 'prime' studs to fine somewhat straight ones.
southalabama
Well-known member
Problem I’ve found with studs is getting a full 1.5” of nailing surface on lower grades.
rlitman
Well-known member
For wall framing, I agree that the SYP stuff I've seen is much clearer and straighter than the SPF. For load bearing sistering of structural joists and rafters, the SPF is lighter, stronger and less likely to split, even if it isn't quite as pretty.
Whitewood is barely superior to a dry sponge. If these are just for partition walls (i.e. non-load bearing) just get the straightest lumber you can find and don't worry about grades. Working with warped/crooked lumber is bad for the soul.
dcg9381
Well-known member
Google "finger jointed studs" - something I learned from a neighbor trying to build a home during covid...
My barndo 2x4s are not load bearing.
My barndo 2x4s are not load bearing.
reader2580
Well-known member
How much do finger jointed studs cost? The custom builder who built my previous house for me said he had a client that wanted finger jointed studs.
These days I would use LSL studs if I wanted something very straight. These are not cheap compared to regular dimensional lumber.
dcg9381
Well-known member
I'm not up on the price of lumber, but during covid my neighbor used finger jointed studs (2x4) in his walls. He indicated that they cost less...
reader2580
Well-known member
Did they cost less than the sky high price of regular lumber during COVID, or less than regular lumber at today's prices? I would think they would be a lot more popular if they cost less than regular lumber. I would certainly buy them if they cost less.
A gas station near my house was torn down just before COVID hit. They had planned to use regular lumber, but switched to steel framing as it cost less than regular lumber. The building official was telling me how they had to have the building re-engineered after the blueprints were done due to the switch to steel. The extra engineering was still less than lumber.
If I ever win the lottery, my entire house will be built with engineered products like LSL's and LVL's. But until I do, if I need to frame anything, I'll be picking through my local Menards hoping they have enough straight boards for my task.
reader2580
Well-known member
My brother built a really fancy house with a sport court about four years ago. The house is at least 25% LSLs and LVLs because that is what the engineer specified. I am certain his lumber package alone cost more than the entire 24x60x16 garage I just built. He was lucky that the framing was done just before COVID hit so he didn't have to pay COVID prices for lumber.
billconner
Well-known member
And I've been happy building with rough sawn white pine - what around here they call Amish wood. Full sized and usually a foot or more longer than what you pay for, and about 2/3 the price of a lumber yard or big box store.
Rusted Nut
Well-known member
I did quite a few projects with finger jointed studs, about 20 years ago. I know back then they were cheaper. They were straighter than standard full length studs. Never heard any issues with them.
I didn’t mean non-longitudinal grain, but differences in grain curvature (as trees are cylindrical) when viewed on end. Like when you glue up a wide plank with several narrower boards, the grain is still more/less parallel to long edges of boards, but you try to alternate the curves to end up with a wide plank that stays flatter (especially if compared to a natural wide plank).
Our house was built with finger joined studs about 27 years ago. I did notice that they were all dead straight with no warping. I suspect all the short sections are kiln dried before they are joined and glued but I don't know that for certain.
A quick Google search indicates that my suspicion was correct but as always YMMV.
A quick Google search indicates that my suspicion was correct but as always YMMV.