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Understanding the differences among epoxy options...

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allthingsgiant

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Feb 11, 2023
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Project: 1500 sqft + 600 sqft garages; poured fresh 5 months ago. General light-medium duty residential garage + woodworking shop / RV bay.
Goal: Epoxy Flooring; medium gray finish
Budget: sub $3000
Experience: UCoatIt UGloss-AF; lasted 5 years before showing some minor tire peel and staining from cedar boards (temporarily stored on floor); happy with it overall. I did a medium flake / standard flake pattern, and didn't like losing small washers, nuts, etc. Afraid if I go with no flake, it will show more dirt, scuffs, and look 'tired' quicker.

I have quotes for each of the UCoatIt U-Glaze (more durable finish), Wolverine, and ArmorPoxy (two layer system + two layer topcoat). While I 'think' the Wolverine will give me the thickest epoxy, it's also over 40% more expensive. I have so far narrowed down my options to UCoatIt vs ArmorPoxy. Thing is, I can't tell from the information what is the real difference between these two systems. Any ideas?

Also, curious if there might be an alternate option out there I haven't discovered? Thinking about just a topcoat 'polish', darker epoxy color to minimize the 'tired' look, etc. Thanks for your recommendations / experience.
 
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FJ4FUN

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Consider two coats, ~5mil - 6mil each, of Wolverine Coatings' BondTite 1101 primer, one of which tinted , topped off with a coat of their EnduraShield 2254. The final appearance will be somewhat translucent so any variegations in the underlying slab will likely show through but that can be a cool look... BondTite 1101 is an extremely versatile 100% solids primer with great impact resistance all on it's own. A system like this would run you around $1.35 psf.
 
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thammel

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I did armorpoxy over 5 years ago and it is fantastic. I did 2 part epoxy primer followed by 2 part epoxy color coat and chips followed by 2 part military clear coat with anti slip.
 
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Jsf721

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I’d look at tiles. Epoxy has messed me up 2x and the 2nd was pro install.
 
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Shea

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allthingsgiant said:
Project: 1500 sqft + 600 sqft garages; poured fresh 5 months ago. General light-medium duty residential garage + woodworking shop / RV bay.
Goal: Epoxy Flooring; medium gray finish
Budget: sub $3000
Experience: UCoatIt UGloss-AF; lasted 5 years before showing some minor tire peel and staining from cedar boards (temporarily stored on floor); happy with it overall. I did a medium flake / standard flake pattern, and didn't like losing small washers, nuts, etc. Afraid if I go with no flake, it will show more dirt, scuffs, and look 'tired' quicker.

I have quotes for each of the UCoatIt U-Glaze (more durable finish), Wolverine, and ArmorPoxy (two layer system + two layer topcoat). While I 'think' the Wolverine will give me the thickest epoxy, it's also over 40% more expensive. I have so far narrowed down my options to UCoatIt vs ArmorPoxy. Thing is, I can't tell from the information what is the real difference between these two systems. Any ideas?

Also, curious if there might be an alternate option out there I haven't discovered? Thinking about just a topcoat 'polish', darker epoxy color to minimize the 'tired' look, etc. Thanks for your recommendations / experience.
Click to expand...
Can you provide a link or accurate description of the products to compare?
 
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allthingsgiant

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ucoatit.com

UGloss-AF

UGloss-AF is a two component, solvent based polyurethane top coat specifically formulated for light to medium traffic applications. Adding the UGloss-AF® top coat will provide additional chemical and abrasion resistance while also increasing light reflectionUGloss-AF® Clear can be used whenever...
ucoatit.com
ucoatit.com

UGlaze

UGlaze is a water based, non-yellowing polyurethane coating system can be used to seal concrete, wood, and metal as well as a top coat over any UCoat It floor coating system. UGlaze provides an outstanding hard, high gloss finish while retaining color retention, even under ultraviolet exposure...
ucoatit.com

armorpoxy.com

Job on a Pallet - Commercial Epoxy System - ArmorPoxy II 2-Layer - Per Sq Ft - Low & STD VOC

Job on a Pallet Kit. Comes with complete materials for self installation! Save up to 80% OFF! Complete 2 layer epoxy coating syste. Buy now!
armorpoxy.com armorpoxy.com
 
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Andy Smith Jr.

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Houston, TX
allthingsgiant said:
Project: 1500 sqft + 600 sqft garages; poured fresh 5 months ago. General light-medium duty residential garage + woodworking shop / RV bay.
Goal: Epoxy Flooring; medium gray finish
Budget: sub $3000
Experience: UCoatIt UGloss-AF; lasted 5 years before showing some minor tire peel and staining from cedar boards (temporarily stored on floor); happy with it overall. I did a medium flake / standard flake pattern, and didn't like losing small washers, nuts, etc. Afraid if I go with no flake, it will show more dirt, scuffs, and look 'tired' quicker.

I have quotes for each of the UCoatIt U-Glaze (more durable finish), Wolverine, and ArmorPoxy (two layer system + two layer topcoat). While I 'think' the Wolverine will give me the thickest epoxy, it's also over 40% more expensive. I have so far narrowed down my options to UCoatIt vs ArmorPoxy. Thing is, I can't tell from the information what is the real difference between these two systems. Any ideas?

Also, curious if there might be an alternate option out there I haven't discovered? Thinking about just a topcoat 'polish', darker epoxy color to minimize the 'tired' look, etc. Thanks for your recommendations / experience.
Click to expand...
I used the Armorpoxy system on my floor almost 2.5 years ago and it looks great. I used 2 part primer, 100% solids epoxy with gray pigment pack, 2 part military grade clear. Floor has held up very well. Car tires do not effect the floor at all.
 
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FJ4FUN

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Shea said:
LOL... Yep, I know where to find that info ;) It's the other two that have more than one option.
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we've got a number of options as well and if you mess around with any of our configurators you can customize any of our systems to your specific interests/needs.
 
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Shea

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Location
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allthingsgiant said:
ucoatit.com

UGloss-AF

UGloss-AF is a two component, solvent based polyurethane top coat specifically formulated for light to medium traffic applications. Adding the UGloss-AF® top coat will provide additional chemical and abrasion resistance while also increasing light reflectionUGloss-AF® Clear can be used whenever...
ucoatit.com
ucoatit.com

UGlaze

UGlaze is a water based, non-yellowing polyurethane coating system can be used to seal concrete, wood, and metal as well as a top coat over any UCoat It floor coating system. UGlaze provides an outstanding hard, high gloss finish while retaining color retention, even under ultraviolet exposure...
ucoatit.com

armorpoxy.com

Job on a Pallet - Commercial Epoxy System - ArmorPoxy II 2-Layer - Per Sq Ft - Low & STD VOC

Job on a Pallet Kit. Comes with complete materials for self installation! Save up to 80% OFF! Complete 2 layer epoxy coating syste. Buy now!
armorpoxy.com armorpoxy.com
Click to expand...
It appears you want a solid color floor system? The UGlaze water-based polyurethane does not recommend a topcoat and the solvent-based UGloss requires a primer. Were you thinking of using the two of these together?

The ArmorPoxy II Job on a Pallet is a solid color system that uses a solvent-based epoxy for the base coat and their matching color tinted Military Grade polyurethane as the topcoat. The solvent-based epoxy is going to provide a thicker base coat than UGlaze. In addition, solvent-based epoxy adheres and prevents hot tire pickup much better than a water-based polyurethane.

Based on the recommended coverage rates of UGlaze, the ArmorPoxy system is going to be thicker overall. In addition, it will be a better performer. You can compare the data sheets below. Unfortunately, UCoat-It does not provide as much information as ArmorPoxy does in its data sheets.


The Wolverine coating systems by Alpha Garage are a few steps better and a complete commercial quality system. ArmorPoxy offers similar systems, but the ArmorPoxy II is not it.
 
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allthingsgiant

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Shea said:
It appears you want a solid color floor system? The UGlaze water-based polyurethane does not recommend a topcoat and the solvent-based UGloss requires a primer. Were you thinking of using the two of these together?

The ArmorPoxy II Job on a Pallet is a solid color system that uses a solvent-based epoxy for the base coat and their matching color tinted Military Grade polyurethane as the topcoat. The solvent-based epoxy is going to provide a thicker base coat than UGlaze. In addition, solvent-based epoxy adheres and prevents hot tire pickup much better than a water-based polyurethane.

Based on the recommended coverage rates of UGlaze, the ArmorPoxy system is going to be thicker overall. In addition, it will be a better performer. You can compare the data sheets below. Unfortunately, UCoat-It does not provide as much information as ArmorPoxy does in its data sheets.


The Wolverine coating systems by Alpha Garage are a few steps better and a complete commercial quality system. ArmorPoxy offers similar systems, but the ArmorPoxy II is not it.
Click to expand...
Thank you for confirming what I thought.

UCoatIt recommended the UGlaze as a topcoat to the UCoat base for better chemical resistance and wear. I think I misspoke - you are correct - it's either UGlaze or UGloss as the top coat. My experience with UGloss was that it had some tire peel after a few years and cedar boards stained the topcoat after sitting on the ground for a few days.

Now I think I need to decide if I do want the solid color effect, or perhaps just a sealer / topcoat. Ahh, the decisions...
 
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Armorpoxy

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Ucooat are thinner, water based products vs. the Armproxy...no comparison...we sell frequently to users of Ucoatit that have failed floors...We love selling against them! Solid colors are fine they do make it easier to find dropped parts, the flip side to that is that the flecks visually break up the floor so you don't see dirt and such.
 
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Youngandfree

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Dec 29, 2020
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Location
VA
Armorpoxy said:
Ucooat are thinner, water based products vs. the Armproxy...no comparison...we sell frequently to users of Ucoatit that have failed floors...We love selling against them! Solid colors are fine they do make it easier to find dropped parts, the flip side to that is that the flecks visually break up the floor so you don't see dirt and such.
Click to expand...
Does anyone ever do a solid color flake?
 
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stick70

Active member
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Jun 24, 2014
Messages
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Youngandfree said:
Does anyone ever do a solid color flake?
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We have a solid color light grey full flake at work and it looks fine visually, we were worried about the lost part issue. What's happened over time is you can see the floor wearing over the high spots in the clear over the full flake. It's not slick or awful looking, but it is noticeable. This is a floor that sees high traffic, fork lift, etc mind you. I don't think this would be as noticeable with a multi colored flake.
 
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FJ4FUN

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Properly done, solid color flake can turn out nice but it is very susceptible to uneven distribution of flakes. If the underlying receiver body coat has a lot of variance in thickness it will affect how the flakes lay down. Thinner coating thicknesses/areas tend to make the flakes stand up (tombstone) more were thicker coating areas promote the flakes to lay down flat as they tend to sink into the coating layer more. Given the self-leveling nature of high build epoxy coupled with the fact that no floor is perfectly flat, the opportunity for variation in appearance due to flake distribution is a concern.

There are a couple of ways to address this. One way to manage this is to make sure you aggressively scrape the flakes and consider a light sanding pass with a floor maintainer/sanding screen combo prior to a thick flood coat application and/or or multiple urethane coats. Another way is a double broadcast of flakes. Either one of these = more time and $...
 
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Armorpoxy

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Hi, most people that try to use a single color flake are not happy with the end visual result. Performance-wise a single color is same as multi color, but the multi color just does a terrifc job of hiding any installation irregularities and dirt/grime that gets on the floor from usage. A monolithic floor shows a lot more of any 'problems'.
 
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