Uneven Concrete: Door Threshold Ideas Needed

[pinbill]

Hello,

This is my first post to Garage Journal. I built an garage recently. It turned out really good except the concrete along the door was poured uneven. Really uneven. It is a shame but I am dealing with it well. I might sue but that is another story. My garage door installer said I can't put anything on the door to fill the gap. Another option is to grind the concrete down. I was told that would leave an non smooth surface and I would have to epoxy the floor. For right now I would like to make a strip and lay it across the entryway to make the door seal. There is a 2 in gap on the low side. Anyone have any ideas on what I should use?

Thanks,

Bill

 

[toolaholic]

I once used concrete resurfacer on my pitted sidewalks and it rained. It looked ugly I ground the resurfacer off w/ this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000719W8/?tag=atomicindus08-20 I used these wheels: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000TZX4E/?tag=atomicindus08-20 It was expensive at one wheel worn down per 2 sections of sidewalk but it was smooth. I hired a guy to put decorative concrete down after I ground quikrete concrete resurfacer off. Dust collection is nothing short of amazing w/ this grinder!

 

[bullnerd]

Check with Legacy,I think they make a self leveling product that may work for this.

Not positive, but he recomended something to me a while back for a similar problem.

 

[Slednut]

I don't know why the door installer said you can’t attach anything to the door. I would rip some wood stock down to the 2 inches, remove the door seal and screw the stock to the door. Close the door by hand set a scribe to 2 inches and mark the wood. Remove the wood and cut it with a skill saw on the mark. Attached it and the seal to the door. When you get the concrete fixed just remove the wood from the door.

 

[jshillin]

Don't know if it will fix it, but might help: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008WFT7/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[deter]

your concrete guy should be out there fixing that

 

[Mustangmike66]

I would use ardex. Or hire a concrete hand to put the ardex down.

 

[kbs2244]

slednut has the idea.
The door guy was in extream CYA mode.
You would be adding less than 2 lbs to the door.
Well within the spring adjustment range.

A little wood work is a lot easier than any kind of concrete work.

 

[KnurledNut]

Adjusting the door tracks to hang out of plumb a little helps. An installer i know will sometimes "pack" the hollow bottom rubber channels with plastic wrap on the high side.

 

[pinbill]

Hey Guys,

Thanks for the responses.

I can't attach anything to the bottom of the door or it will hit the top of the door opening and get ripped off. I didn't believe my door guy at first then I checked and it is true.

I am not sure about building the low side up with epoxy. I have a bad feeling it would start to peel up and be a mess to fix.

I am toying with the idea of grinding the concrete down, but don't want to do that until a later time.

I agree that my concrete guy should be fixing it. He didn't come to look at it after several calls. I went to his house once on a Friday night and in a drunken rage he threatened me. So that is why I am waiting to the winter to sue him. (if anyone has any experience suing a contractor please chime in)

The link to the door weather stripping is on the right track, but my gap is too big. I was hoping to find a good material that I can cut to fit and glue or epoxy in place and use as a threshold. Anyone have experience or ideas on what material to use and, or a good way to attach it.

Thanks,

Bill

 

[mpraddict]

If it's really off by 2" from one side to the other, I wouldn't be grinding it down for two reasons. One, grinding off 2" of concrete will be a lot of work! Two, if you have a typical4" slab, grinding it to half the original thickness may compromise the integrity of the slab and could expose the reinforcing.

 

[pinbill]

I know. The integrity was a concern. It is a monolithic pour that has five inches for the slabs in the center. The edges are tapered thicker and go down 16 inches. I just measured it and I could get away with grinding it 1 1/4 inches. I read about packing the weatherstripping under the door with something to make it come down a little farther. I guess I will just glue a strip there for the winter and see what happens in the fall.

Thanks,

Bill

 

[Zippercat]

Rip treated 2x4 on angle to fill gap. Affix to bottom of door and paint to match door. Put new weatherstrip on the new bottom.

 

[pinbill]

I would love to do that but the piece would hit the top of the door opening and get ripped off. I checked it.

 

[SALIV8]

Can you try sled nuts idea on the inside of the door to give more clearance? If not make a bracket on inside of door or bottom to extend inside a bit and attach the gap filler to this bracket for the extra clearance..

Pipe insulation? Regular door weatherstripping lengths on inside to eat up the gap?

 

[b wojo]

rip a piece of treated 2x4, redwood or cedar and attach as already suggested. Adjust the opener of the door so that the bottom of the door opens to just below the top of the door opening,if there is enough clearance with your vehicle to still get in. You shouldnt be that tight getting a vehicle in there unless its a tall truck or suv. It will only be about 4" difference if that. The openers are easy to adjust for the opening height. Then consult with another concrete pro. Would'nt even waste my energy on suing the drunk guy.... word of mouth and Karma are a *****.....

 

[CNGsaves]

Is that your sidewalk right there with GIANT stub-your-toe difference of about 2 inches??

Also, can you post more pics (properly oriented) from looking straight forward at garage door??

So your problem is right side of concrete is proper but left side slopes down leaving gap under the garage door . . . right ??

What in the world is that diagonal cut line ??

 

[pinbill]

I will take a picture or two tomorrow of the whole opening from the front. I can't garauntee they will be the correct orientation. I tried to get those pics right but couldn't figure it out.

The angled cuts are there because the driveway started cracking and my buddy who did the framing said it would help.

I like the side walk. There is a four inch step that goes up to the driveway.

Yes, you are correct. The left side of the garage door opening slopes down. The whole left side of the garage slopes down in the front but I am really only concerned with the door.

Thanks,

Bill

 

[bullnerd]

Its epoxy mortar.

 

[expoman55]

Pinbill. I poured a floor in an old clearspan building last sept. and have 16 doors.. While my doors are level side to side ( concrete guy friend was OCD and I am glad) however it was hard to keep the 16 feet level and flat and even.. I have a few imperfections(waves) in mine as well. I cant sue myself so I needed to fix to keep the snow and wind out as I have heat in the floor as well. I purchased the strips from EBAY on the link above for amazon for 16' doors and that REALLLY hellped. I packed the strip on bottom of door in center where my problem existed and now door is sealed. Sooo for now I am pretty pleased.. we will see when snow falls and blows here in UPSTATE NY

 

[pinbill]

Thanks for the responses guys. It is nice to have a few ideas to kick around and have some options to choose from. I will go get a pressure treated 2x4 saw it down and glue the strip to the top. It will seal and be OK for the winter. The downside would be driving over the strip. It will be almost 2" on the one side. I am pretty sure it would get dislodged driving over it. So I would lose a garage bay. For the winter it will be OK.

The winter is also a good time to sue someone. I haven't ever done it before so it seems exciting. It is better than having a long term resentment at some jerk who is hoping I will live with his crappy work. He knows the statute is two years and is hoping it runs out. I am going to take a bunch of time and really get my ducks in a row. I wouldnt sue but I keep calling and he keeps ducking me. In the last phone call he said "someone might have stepped on the form" the night before they poured. He was trying to blame it on me. Anyway, it is not my fault he didn't check the level right before they poured the concrete.

I spoke to a concrete grinder/ leveler in Denver they do big jobs and have a minimum trip charge. They could grind it in 3-4 hours and the cost would be $600. The aggregate will show but I could always paint it when I sell the place. I am thinking I will be OK concerning the metal. The guy I spoke to said most concrete people dont use a spacer or riser to get the mesh and rebar in the middle of the concrete. I remember the mesh was low to the ground and didn't have spacers. Also the concrete was 5" thick in the middle of the slab when we drilled to put up the lift. I am thinking we will be OK. I have to risk it though or I am only going to have a 24x26 one car garage.

Thanks again for the support.

Bill