Uneven concrete garage wall advice

[Freefallin2000]

Hi all its been a while since I have been lurking, but I am back at improving the garage in the home my wife and I purchased a few years ago. Its a single pull in that was added in the late 80's. The remodel was shoddy at best and now I am trying to figure the best way to smooth out a jagged rock wall that was originally an exterior wall of the home before the garage was added.

That being said, here are some photos. I got some some quick set mortar to fill the low spots. However, the larger areas towards the bottom of the wall that protrude out are a little scary. I am a professional detailer and will use this space for paint correction. so I want this wall to be nice a smooth with nothing protruding from it so I can mount can lighting and misc. other items onto it.

Guy at HD was very helpful and recommended an angle grinder and a concrete wheel to remove uneven areas, but I do not see how grinding those larger protrusions will remove enough rock to make the wall flush after skimming with mortar. Can I go at these areas with a hammer and chisel? Any other suggestions would be great as I dont know the first thing about what I can and cannot remove on this wall in order to keep it structurally sound.

 

[tjdux]

Thats pretty sketchy looking. Its not generally good to the the aggregate in concrete and thats pretty large rock to be used in structural comcrete anyways... if you value your time and can afford to lose the 6ish inches i would just frame out a 2x4 wall and leave that concrete alone.

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[tjdux]

Edit above to read its not generally good to SEE the aggregate

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[cowboy73]

I would be inclined to frame out a wall like tjdux suggested. A 2x4 wall would be plenty. That concrete is pretty crappy looking,

 

[chamoisfive]

From the angle in the photos you've provided, it looks like you might be onto a hiding for nothing by trying to just mortar over the very bony concrete.
Are you in a position to create a false wall in front of the concrete one? That way you can run & hide your utilities like normal. A 2x4 wall would be my preferred option.

Edit: Oops, beaten to it. Too slow typing!

 

[Freefallin2000]

As mentioned guys, I detail cars and correct paint which means I need as much room side to side as possible. my initial thought was to frame over it so I wouldn't have to deal with the mess of concreting over the shoddy wall, but that would mean I loose space. Could I do 1x2 as my studs or would that make zero sense? I take it trying to chisel or remove the protruding areas in order to gain a few precious inches isn't a great idea?

 

[Dr Stan]

1 X 2's will probably not be enough to cover the protrusions and not give you enough room to run the wiring. Possibly 2X2's but that's even a stretch.

Temporally install a couple of vertical studs to use as a reference and run cord every foot and a half or so spacing them vertically. This will give you a way to measure the distance of the protrusions.

A concrete wheel on a disk grinder is a good idea. Make sure you wear proper PPE, especially to keep concrete dust out of your lungs. I'd also get a cheap angle grinder form Horror Freight instead of using a good one and ruining it with the dust.

A hammer drill would make sort work of the worst protrusions and I'd rent one instead of purchasing. Probably will not need it enough to justify the cost. It's going to be heavy so prepare to become very tired. If you can mount some sort of counter weight to take most of the weight of the hammer drill it would make life much easier. I'm thinking of something like the vertical hangers used in assembly to reduce weight and carpel tunnel syndrome.

I imagine you could MacGyver something with a stretch coil spring and rope, chain, etc.

 

[Radix2]

As mentioned guys, I detail cars and correct paint which means I need as much room side to side as possible. my initial thought was to frame over it so I wouldn't have to deal with the mess of concreting over the shoddy wall, but that would mean I loose space. Could I do 1x2 as my studs or would that make zero sense? I take it trying to chisel or remove the protruding areas in order to gain a few precious inches isn't a great idea?

I don't see any problem with chiseling off any offending protuberances if that is what you want to do.

The wall is rough because it was done manually, either hand mixed or in a small mixer, wheelbarrowed, and poured in a zillion pours, with poor forms and it looks like at the bottom, probably against the dirt trench.

If it is solid, a few inches knocked off the jaggies isn't going to hurt anything imo.

Then either put up your thin wall or trowel on some patching cement.

 

[Radix2]

1 X 2's will probably not be enough to cover the protrusions and not give you enough room to run the wiring. Possibly 2X2's but that's even a stretch.

Temporally install a couple of vertical studs to use as a reference and run cord every foot and a half or so spacing them vertically. This will give you a way to measure the distance of the protrusions.

A concrete wheel on a disk grinder is a good idea. Make sure you wear proper PPE, especially to keep concrete dust out of your lungs. I'd also get a cheap angle grinder form Horror Freight instead of using a good one and ruining it with the dust.

A hammer drill would make sort work of the worst protrusions and I'd rent one instead of purchasing. Probably will not need it enough to justify the cost. It's going to be heavy so prepare to become very tired. If you can mount some sort of counter weight to take most of the weight of the hammer drill it would make life much easier. I'm thinking of something like the vertical hangers used in assembly to reduce weight and carpel tunnel syndrome.

I imagine you could MacGyver something with a stretch coil spring and rope, chain, etc.

A cheap harbor freight SDS drill with a chisel on it works great and is inexpensive. 101 uses.

 

[Freefallin2000]

1 X 2's will probably not be enough to cover the protrusions and not give you enough room to run the wiring. Possibly 2X2's but that's even a stretch.

Temporally install a couple of vertical studs to use as a reference and run cord every foot and a half or so spacing them vertically. This will give you a way to measure the distance of the protrusions.

A concrete wheel on a disk grinder is a good idea. Make sure you wear proper PPE, especially to keep concrete dust out of your lungs. I'd also get a cheap angle grinder form Horror Freight instead of using a good one and ruining it with the dust.

A hammer drill would make sort work of the worst protrusions and I'd rent one instead of purchasing. Probably will not need it enough to justify the cost. It's going to be heavy so prepare to become very tired. If you can mount some sort of counter weight to take most of the weight of the hammer drill it would make life much easier. I'm thinking of something like the vertical hangers used in assembly to reduce weight and carpel tunnel syndrome.

I imagine you could MacGyver something with a stretch coil spring and rope, chain, etc.

Well, looks like framing with 2x4's is the recommended options at this point unless someone has an alternative idea. I have never done anything like this before but I have a neighbor who has and is willing to help so I should be fine. Very upsetting knowing I will be losing 6+" of VERY precious space side to side....

 

[tjdux]

Well, looks like framing with 2x4's is the recommended options at this point unless someone has an alternative idea. I have never done anything like this before but I have a neighbor who has and is willing to help so I should be fine. Very upsetting knowing I will be losing 6+" of VERY precious space side to side....

Sounds like the real solution is a bigger garage lol.

You cant wire "to code" with a 2x2 wall but it can be done with certain shallow remodel boxes and then 1/2 inch drywall and you really only lose 3 inches max.

Also you could use surface mount metal boxes for wiring and run the romex through the 2x2s and then through the back of the boxes.

If you are sure the wall is sound the harbor freight sds hammer drill is almost as cheap as a rental and then you own it for any other job that comes along. I have one and it works sweet. Grinding probably works well too but ive never personally done concrete grinding.

Good luck buddy.

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[buddyboy]

if space is your major concern, I'd paint the wall bright white and surface mount your electrical to the wall.

if you want to hang cabinets on the wall then I would surface mount 3/4" plywood, shimmed out to make sure it's level and plumb. I would make the plywood the same size as the back of the cabinet and then hang the cabinet on the plywood.

the other solution would be to scribe the 2x4's to the wall, making the wall plumb and only a little thicker than the farthest existing protrusion.

 

[Firebird 1]

Clean it well, put a coat of block filler paint, then top coat with white. You wont lose any floor space and it will brighten the area up.

 

[Freefallin2000]

Sounds like the real solution is a bigger garage lol.

You cant wire "to code" with a 2x2 wall but it can be done with certain shallow remodel boxes and then 1/2 inch drywall and you really only lose 3 inches max.

Also you could use surface mount metal boxes for wiring and run the romex through the 2x2s and then through the back of the boxes.

If you are sure the wall is sound the harbor freight sds hammer drill is almost as cheap as a rental and then you own it for any other job that comes along. I have one and it works sweet. Grinding probably works well too but ive never personally done concrete grinding.

Good luck buddy.

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I am not super concerned about hiding wiring behind the wall. I was just planning on running an extension cord to the row of can track lights. It is definitely a bonus if I can have an electrician come in to hard wire a switch in though, that would be way nice.

if space is your major concern, I'd paint the wall bright white and surface mount your electrical to the wall.

if you want to hang cabinets on the wall then I would surface mount 3/4" plywood, shimmed out to make sure it's level and plumb. I would make the plywood the same size as the back of the cabinet and then hang the cabinet on the plywood.

the other solution would be to scribe the 2x4's to the wall, making the wall plumb and only a little thicker than the farthest existing protrusion.

Scribe the 2x4's would be essentially notching them to fit the jaggedness of the wall correct? I dont want to simply paint the wall because I want it flat and without anything that will damage ea car door if it accidentally opened up int to the wall.

Clean it well, put a coat of block filler paint, then top coat with white. You wont lose any floor space and it will brighten the area up.

Nice idea but like I said above, I need it to be flat so its safe if a door bumped into it accidentally.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Nice idea but like I said above, I need it to be flat so its safe if a door bumped into it accidentally.

Is the garage reasonably dry? Maybe you could just hang a piece of carpet against the wall to provide a bump stop for opened doors, but if it's damp in there that may turn into a musty mess over time.

I'd be inclined to try the hammer drill and/or chisel method to level the wall out first.

 

[ddawg16]

I would chisel off high spots....pressure wash real good...then get some Stucco mix from HD and do what is basically called a scratch coat on top...but make it smooth.

Any good stucco guy could knock that out in a day

 

[KenC]

Good heavy duty grinder with a diamond cutting (not grinding) wheel. Cut downward at the largest places, break off pieces as you go until you reach the floor. Now , change to a grinding wheel and remove more/smooth. Now you can plaster/stucco to get the final look

 

[Hilltopmasonry]

As mentioned guys, I detail cars and correct paint which means I need as much room side to side as possible. my initial thought was to frame over it so I wouldn't have to deal with the mess of concreting over the shoddy wall, but that would mean I loose space. Could I do 1x2 as my studs or would that make zero sense? I take it trying to chisel or remove the protruding areas in order to gain a few precious inches isn't a great idea?

Flip the 2x4 on their sides instead of building it traditional. 2x2s **** to work with and good luck getting straight ones

If you want to parge mortar over it add a acrylic concrete bonder to the mix. It will stick like glue to the concrete


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[The Cobbler]

lots of options here
another one is strap with 1x3 and run string lines every 24" or so . shim the 1x3 to flush the wall and put drywall, osb or whatever ontop of that . knock off the absolute highest points is a good idea too

 

[wssix99]

lots of options here
another one is strap with 1x3 and run string lines every 24" or so . shim the 1x3 to flush the wall and put drywall, osb or whatever ontop of that . knock off the absolute highest points is a good idea too

+1

This is what I'm thinking. You could use a chipper to knock down the sections that jut out before you fir the wall. Getting the furring strips plumb and straight will be a PITA, but you'll get a lot of space back.

You could also knock down the high areas and then "plaster" a specialty top coat on top of the wall, but that material (and probably the skilled labor to apply it) will be really expensive.

 

[Freefallin2000]

What this boils down do is the fact that I know I wont be happy with anything less than a finished smooth wall. I know myself and my OCD well and anything short of drywall is pointless.

My dad has a good, quick general contractor who only charges $35/hour. Does he do the greatest finish work? No. But I am on a very tight budget and want this garage to be smooth and clean for some up and coming jobs I have.

Pops spoke with the handyman today and he told him we should use 1x2's. I dont care how we stud the wall as long as that nasty thing gets covered and I have a nice clean, smooth surface. I would happily attack the protruding areas with a hammer and chisel if you all think its safe enough to do?

 

[wssix99]

My dad has a good, quick general contractor who only charges $35/hour. Does he do the greatest finish work? No. But I am on a very tight budget and want this garage to be smooth and clean for some up and coming jobs I have.

This doesn't sound like a situation that will result in customer satisfaction, or a straight wall...

I would happily attack the protruding areas with a hammer and chisel if you all think its safe enough to do?

Not safe. You'll die of a heart attack. . You'll want to rent a chipper. It's essentially a power chisel.

 

[The Cobbler]

.......

Pops spoke with the handyman today and he told him we should use 1x2's. .......

for the difference in cost, I strongly recommend 1x3 minimum. it's more stable and stronger than 1x2,you will need less shims per stick, and you don't have to be as concerned with getting them as plumb on the wall for your joints to line up .

 

[Freefallin2000]

Thanks guys, sorry its been a while since I have been on. Havent done anything with this yet but starting to think about it again since detailing season is finally upon us and I have some time to work on it now. I will keep everyone posted as to the progress.

Sean

 

[rayra]

Take down the high spots with your demo weapon of choice - the Harbor Freight 4" grinder for $10 on sale with a good toothed wheel is a miracle worker - and they go Old School plastering on it. 1st pass with a bonding mortar and grooved trowel, 2nd / 3rd with finish plaster or even just drywall mud.

Ought to be super easy for a bodywork guy.

/Bonus points for faking in some roughsawn 'Tudor' framing around the perimeter.

//without even a general region in your profile, no telling how appropriate or inappropriate that style choice is.

 

[Freefallin2000]

Take down the high spots with your demo weapon of choice - the Harbor Freight 4" grinder for $10 on sale with a good toothed wheel is a miracle worker - and they go Old School plastering on it. 1st pass with a bonding mortar and grooved trowel, 2nd / 3rd with finish plaster or even just drywall mud.

Ought to be super easy for a bodywork guy.

/Bonus points for faking in some roughsawn 'Tudor' framing around the perimeter.

//without even a general region in your profile, no telling how appropriate or inappropriate that style choice is.

Well, months have gone by and I am still staring at the same ugly rock wall lol. I am just trying to get the balls to tackle this. Problem does also come down to the fact that I get busy in spurts and cant have the garage in shambles.

I hit the protruding areas a few days ago with my BFH and it actually did start to remove some of the area to my surprise. I think I am just a bit scared because I dont want to compromise the integrity of this wall if I accidentally removed too much.

I will start to chisel away tonight and then go from there. I still think 1x3's and either water proof drywall is probably the best option for my wants/needs. I will keep everyone posted.

Oh, and I hope to order my Racedeck FreeFlow here soon also! Once the wall is covered and floor is down, then I need to paint the rest of the garage and figure out some lighting...

Sean

 

[Revtor]

Got to just jump in and build motivation to make a mess and "git er done"


Spend 10 minutes finding the worst 5 spots. Chisel them down. -20 minutes.

Decide if you want to attack the next batch of "worst" spots. yay or nay up to you. Using a BFH/Chisel? -Hows your arm feel?

Get a bag of mortar mix and acrylic bonder, mix up half a bag and go for it. Big trowel. Mix the other half and finish it off.

Figure out how many more bags you'll need, get 'em and finish this ugly wall.

Couple days later get two gallons of concrete/stucco paint from HD, (mixed to the color of your choice!) a 3/4" nap roller, and paint it.

easy stuff.
DO IT! (trying to motivate here..)


~steve