I searched and couldn't find a thread on this. I an considering putting down unfinished hardwood flooring in a really nice shed build and not finishing it. Obviously moisture and staining would be a concern but I think that might add to the rustic look. I'm wondering if anyone has done this and how it worked out.
Unfinished unfinished flooring
- Thread starter jhendric
- Start date
RegeSullivan
Well-known member
It would look great! You might try a few flooring to see if they have open boxes or discontinued product. Lumber Liquidators is good about that. You could even mix species and it would still great.
it will be fine, but any spills will leave their marks.
Seems like a waste of money.
Why spend $$$ to put down a premium floor and then not finish it?
I'm pretty sure lumber liquidators went out of business.
Not sure what their new name is or what the current business model is
I put oak T&G flooring in a shed that I used to have. Suggest at least sealing it with a basic polyurethane at min. Will help with any moisture/spills and also make it much easier to sweep/vacuum in future. Red Oak is fairly porous and dirt/dust will just fill it up in short order.
ETA sorry read this thread a few days ago and thought you said red oak. I'd still seal it if it were mine. Good luck.
ETA sorry read this thread a few days ago and thought you said red oak. I'd still seal it if it were mine. Good luck.
WisJim
Well-known member
What will be underneath the hardwood flooring? Subflooring of some kind, gravel, dirt, vapor barrier, etc.? I might be more concerned with a finish on the underside than on the top side if there is a chance of moisture from underneath. But we don't have any info or details of this "shed" and how or where it is built.
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jar944
Well-known member
Why not just use hardwood plank /barn flooring?
Under the (future) hardwood is Advantec and the shed floor is a minimum 12"above the ground.
I am not familiar with Hardwood Plank/barn flooring. That may be an option. In my experience the cheapest form of hardwood is 2"flooring, but if it can be done cheaper I'm all ears.
I am not familiar with Hardwood Plank/barn flooring. That may be an option. In my experience the cheapest form of hardwood is 2"flooring, but if it can be done cheaper I'm all ears.
duneslider
Well-known member
My local HD has unfinished 2-1/4 #2 red oak for about 3.20sqft. It would be durable finished or unfinished but just note that moisture coming up from the ground will affect it, I would for sure put down some heavy tar paper under it.
I honestly kind of like the unfinished look but I still might consider putting a coat or two of matte finish on it. I did do a rustic floor once where we didn't sand the floor and just hit it real quick with the buffer and screen to help with splinters and then we put a coat of poly on it, I think it was satin at the time. It was a cool floor I thought.
I honestly kind of like the unfinished look but I still might consider putting a coat or two of matte finish on it. I did do a rustic floor once where we didn't sand the floor and just hit it real quick with the buffer and screen to help with splinters and then we put a coat of poly on it, I think it was satin at the time. It was a cool floor I thought.
RegeSullivan
Well-known member
There are 2 Lumber Liquidators within 20 miles of me. My son just picked up some discontinued plank for a storage area a couple of week ago.
Huh, I swear the Lumber Liquidators went belly up years back, and "LL flooring" filed chapter 11 about a year ago.
I looked it up:
LL Flooring, formerly Lumber Liquidators, is liquidating after failing to find a buyer
LL Flooring, once North America's largest specialty seller of hardwood floors, is closing its doors after 30 years in business.
www.cbsnews.com
If it's cheap, nail it down, maybe belt sand it with 36 grit and go with it. Our grandfathers didn't stress about having exquisitely finished glossy floors in their garages in order to impress their imaginary internet friends. Solid oak is tough and has served as garage floors ever since there were garages, and for centuries before that.
GJ does tend to lean toward the precious rather than utilitarian.
jar944
Well-known member
It's typically 4-6" wide and 10' long tongue and groove or just random width square edge 3-8" x random length boards. Typically 5/4.
In my workshop I put down some cheapish white oak flooring and then finished it with an exterior grade penetrating oil finish. I did not sand the floor before oiling it. It looks rustic while still giving some protection and making it easier to clean up
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
It's worked fine for hundreds of years. Go for it. Personally, I'd mop on some kind of penetrating oil finish, just to let it age more gracefully.
Our first shop was very low budget. We picked up used tongue and groove 2x6 roof decking, put it down and mopped several coats of linseed oil on it. It was just fine.
This is the penetrating oil I used. I am happy with it. I would not use poly unless you wanted a real high end finish and are willing to sand and refinish as needed
I installed the wood floor over old fashioned roofing felt/ tar paper and used stainless steel flooring cleats.
Thanks for all the replies guys, I'm not hearing anyone say don't do it. I still have time to decide. One thing that is appealing to me it that Oak, for instance, would actually make the floor stronger versus other options like vinyl.