If it's zinc of any kind, it should visibly react with an acid. Vinegar might not be strong enough to see the bubbles, but a phos acid or Muriatic (hydrochloric) acid solution will show bubbles immediately. I use one of the two to clean galvanizing off before welding. Muriatic is much faster, but can cause serious rust problems down the line (like within the next hour) if not immediately and thoroughly cleaned with a lot of really hot water. I also use Muriatic acid to induce rust for that "weathered" look on outdoor ironwork.Clear zinc would be my first guess. Do the edges of the part have the exact same coating? How long was it soaking in vinegar?
And, unlike Muriatic, leaves a rust-resistant coating. I use Muriatic (hydrochloric) acid to make metal rust.Why fool with vinegar when there are much better options. Muriatic acid being one. Phosphoric acid being another. Phos. acid will strip zinc coatings in minutes.
good to know about phosphoric. I keep some in gel form as rust reformer but didn't know about stripping galvanized.And, unlike Muriatic, leaves a rust-resistant coating. I use Muriatic (hydrochloric) acid to make metal rust.
Yes, letting bare steel soak in phos acid solution and then air-dry--no rinse--will result in some level of phosphatization. Different steels react differently.good to know about phosphoric. I keep some in gel form as rust reformer but didn't know about stripping galvanized.
I'm still unsure about phosphoric. Should I wait for a rust layer to form to apply or will applying to bare steel also form an iron phosphate layer?

Some would say muriatic isn't a better option. Without a way to store it away from tools and machinery it can cause more trouble than it solves.Why fool with vinegar when there are much better options. Muriatic acid being one. Phosphoric acid being another. Phos. acid will strip zinc coatings in minutes.
I had a sealed jug of Muriatic acid stored next to a box of ****-weld pipe fittings for about a month. I had to toss the fittings as they rusted so badly just sitting a foot away from the sealed jug.Some would say muriatic isn't a better option. Without a way to store it away from tools and machinery it can cause more trouble than it solves.
Ospho by Skyco. I get it at Ace Hardware. Klean Strip makes a similar product. Marketed as concrete cleaner at the home box stores. Lowes HD etc.What % strength phosphoric acid do you all use? Where do you buy it?
I've never used it actually. I meant better as in working faster. When I need to use an acid product I stick with phos. acid.Some would say muriatic isn't a better option. Without a way to store it away from tools and machinery it can cause more trouble than it solves.
I have a vintage drill press that's 3/4 of the way through restoration. I had 4 gallons of muriatic nearby......I'll have to derust it again.I had a sealed jug of Muriatic acid stored next to a box of ****-weld pipe fittings for about a month. I had to toss the fittings as they rusted so badly just sitting a foot away from the sealed jug.
I use a glug or two from the jug per gallon. Phos is so innocuous that it doesn't seem to much matter--unless it's the cost. Those who measure seem to go around 10-20%.What % strength phosphoric acid do you all use? Where do you buy it?
This stuff is reasonably priced:I use a glug or two from the jug per gallon. Phos is so innocuous that it doesn't seem to much matter--unless it's the cost. Those who measure seem to go around 10-20%.
Google it. You can get 85% for around $40/gallon online. Auto body supply shops should also carry it.
I think Ospho is the same stuff but pre-diluted. SDS says it's H3PO4, which is phos acid.
That's HCl, hydrochloric acid, in 10-30% concentration, aka muriatic acid.This stuff is reasonably priced:
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Klean-Strip 1 Gal. Concrete Etch, Metal Prep and Rust Inhibitor Outdoor Cleaner GKPA30220 - The Home Depot
Remove rust from iron and steel surfaces with this Klean-Strip Phosphoric Prep and Etch. Features galvanized and aluminum finish.www.homedepot.com
That's HCl, hydrochloric acid, in 10-30% concentration, aka muriatic acid.
Sorry. Looked up concrete etch from the description.
Mostly Phos acid--and other ****--but not HCl.
not according to MSDS I linked. hcl goes for <10$/gal and has no rust inhibition.That's HCl, hydrochloric acid, in 10-30% concentration, aka muriatic acid.
Yeah I looked up the etch not prepnot according to MSDS I linked. hcl goes for <10$/gal and has no rust inhibition.
No idea but if it strips galvanizing as stated above....maybe? I've got some forged iron....let me run a test w/my gel phosphoric....Slightly off-topic question: Will H3PO4 'burn' millscale off of hot-rolled steel?
I know HCl will (I use it for that all the time), but it would be nice to be able to do so with something that's not an oxidizer.
Anyone know?
Not in my experience. Sorry.Slightly off-topic question: Will H3PO4 'burn' millscale off of hot-rolled steel?
I know HCl will (I use it for that all the time), but it would be nice to be able to do so with something that's not an oxidizer.
Anyone know?
When I was in the market the best source I found was https://alliancechemical.com/.What % strength phosphoric acid do you all use? Where do you buy it?
Manganese dioxide from a flashlight battery and phosphoric acid (Ospho) in a boiling solution will do "parkerizing" at home; this is best done outside. Lots of videos on youtube; no need to buy kits.You dont want to use if if you are rust bluing like the OP and its extremely lousy coating compared to a real zinc/manganese phosphate coating such as parkerizing