unisaw - which one to get?

[bagged89s10]

i’m looking to get a unisaw soon.
what would you get between these options.
I’m looking at a few 1940s style single phase 1HP models. I’m also looking at a 1940s three phase 1HP with vfd. then there is a 1983 model, single phase, 3 HP. All about the same price. all around $500 and hoping a little less.

here is a picture of the 1940s 1HP 3phase with vfd and a picture of the 1983 3HP single phase

 

[Dumber than lumber]

Do they both tilt the same way?
Both have the same fence?
I would be inclined to go with the 1983 model.

 

[Bigblockyeti]

They're both right tilt and they both have the Unifence. I'd lean more toward the newer 1ph was as more power is always better and the 3ph has a better chance of seeing industrial duty. Looking at both would be a good idea so you can see how well they run.

 

[Whitworth]

3 horse, 1phase = no brainer.

 

[bagged89s10]

3 horse, 1phase = no brainer.

They're both right tilt and they both have the Unifence. I'd lean more toward the newer 1ph was as more power is always better and the 3ph has a better chance of seeing industrial duty. Looking at both would be a good idea so you can see how well they run.

so I just spoke to these sellers. the newer single phase 3HP is from a woodworking shop. It was actually bought from a woodworking shop by another woodworking shop, and hasn’t seen much use in the last few years.

the 3 phrase 1HP was from a wood shop teacher and cabinet maker.

the only advantage I see in the 3 phase unit is that it does have a vfd, which allows the saw to start and stop fast or as slow as you want it to.

both have a unifence which isn’t a biesemeyer, but still a good fence.

I hear ones built after the 1970s had quality that started slipping.

the older unit has the oval cut out and the newer one has a large rectangle cut out for the motor. both are missing the covers.

 

[bagged89s10]

I correct myself, the guy with the 1HP saw found the original motor cover and exhaust port that was made for it.












this one does look butchered though.

 

[Bigblockyeti]

That original goose egg motor cover has cool factor but I'd still want the 3hp saw. My experience with these are my 3hp models and the 5hp where I used to work, more power is always better.
I had two nearly identical saws, one with the Unifence and one with the Biesmeyer, Unifence > Biesmeyer every time!

 

[exmaxima1]

I have a late 60's Uni with Biesemeyer fence and the 3hp motor (it looks very much like the '83 model you posted). The motor is a special design and starts very smoothly. I cannot see the point with using a VFD on a table saw.

 

[bczygan]

Both!

Set up for different tasks.

The egg is worth half the asking price.

Bill

 

[gungatim]

quality didn't start slipping IMO until maybe the last 10 yrs. I've got a 90's model and it's rock solid.

while the 40's have a cool factor, I would go with a newer 3hp model if you plan to do a lot of work.

2 cast iron wing extensions are a bonus if you can find them, usually they only have one. mine had 2 and the side table, most people take off the 2nd wing when they add the side table and lose them, but you can cut down the side table and re-install after the 2nd wing and have a really nice surface that way, which is what I did.

the nose piece in the 2nd pic of the unifence has the adjustment slide on upside down. which means the entire fence is probably way out of alignment...

 

[bagged89s10]

thanks for all the input. if the 3hp model is in good condition when I go look at it. I will probably buy it.

 

[bagged89s10]

well it was as nice as expected so I brought it home. Wouldn’t fit in my truck since i have a slide out and a cap so had to take off the top. kept the motor in so had to carefully slide it out of my truck.





I will replace the belts because they are a cracked, and clean up the gunked up wood, which isn’t too bad.



not a big fan of the mobile base because it makes the saw sit a couple inches away from the wall but if i roll the saw in with the fence towards the wall, it might actually be perfect. But it just doesn’t roll that nicely.
I might just swap the base from jointer. I will assembly and align the top and fence after i clean it up.



I’m glad i had time to go get it.

 

[Whitworth]

Nice acquisition !

 

[shoot summ]

You chose the right one!

Don't buy the hype on purchasing "matched" belts for a premium. You can get good belts from vbeltsupply.com, I'm running the blue ones with Kevlar, work great and no vibration issues.

There is a guy on ebay that sells repo motors covers out of plastic.

 

[Dumber than lumber]

You did good. And we are proud to know you.
Hope you get lots of enjoyment out of that excellent purchase.

 

[bczygan]

Nice one.

Very clean.

Good choice!

Bill

 

[bagged89s10]

look at the size of this baldor 3HP motor!

 

[bagged89s10]

You chose the right one!

Don't buy the hype on purchasing "matched" belts for a premium. You can get good belts from vbeltsupply.com, I'm running the blue ones with Kevlar, work great and no vibration issues.

There is a guy on ebay that sells repo motors covers out of plastic.

good to know. i’ll try the blue belts.
found them on ebay for $16.13. i’m assuming they are the same thing.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/372712069324

there are also these really inexpensive ones for $9.71. seems a little too cheap.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/372672047573

for the motor cover, I think i’m just going to use the extension supports and enclose the motor. it will just take 3 pieces of thin plywood.m, which I should already have laying around. Will cost me basically nothing versus $100.

 

[gungatim]

My Uni came without the motor cover. I found a slew of NOS covers for cheap on ebay. they include mounting hardware, hinge door lock, etc. only one catch; they are silver, made for the anniversary models a while ago so the color/style doesn't match exactly but for me it didn't matter.

I see you have an aftermarket starter switch. when the originals wear out they are crazy expensive to replace from Delta. note my home made switch, a pair of buttons and grey power box from the hardware store. buttons available on amazon for <$10 for the pair and can be wired NO or NC. cut the ears off the box, drilled for conduit and remounted. <$17 for the whole setup if anyone needs to re-do theirs. I read a ton of threads on replacing the switch but the generic ones do not work with a magnetic starter. just FYI.

 

[bagged89s10]

My Uni came without the motor cover. I found a slew of NOS covers for cheap on ebay. they include mounting hardware, hinge door lock, etc. only one catch; they are silver, made for the anniversary models a while ago so the color/style doesn't match exactly but for me it didn't matter.



I see you have an aftermarket starter switch. when the originals wear out they are crazy expensive to replace from Delta. note my home made switch, a pair of buttons and grey power box from the hardware store. buttons available on amazon for <$10 for the pair and can be wired NO or NC. cut the ears off the box, drilled for conduit and remounted. <$17 for the whole setup if anyone needs to re-do theirs. I read a ton of threads on replacing the switch but the generic ones do not work with a magnetic starter. just FYI.

i’m just going to enclose the motor with the right side extension brackets. it will basically just take 3 pieces of whatever material I choose. probably 1/8” plywood since I have extra.

 

[Roberts210]

Just a note here for others trying to decide between older Unisaws or '80's models. The older ones, even tho rated at 1.5 H.P. (3450 rpm) have abundant torque for plenty of hard ripping. The 1 h.p., repulsion induction Unisaw motors spun at 1725 rpm, which got bigger drive pulleys. They are also torquey motors. Don't knock 'em if you haven't used one.

Here's the '65 Unisaw I bought (for $35) and restored.
The motor is rated at 1.5 h.p., 3450 rpm. But h.p. is a function of torque and rpm. TORQUE being more important than rpm when ripping.

Look at the fat little motor. The larger the rotor or armature is in diameter the more leverage it will exert on the shaft as the rotating magnetic field is energized, and the more leverage is exerted, the more torque is produced. This one cuts almost as strong as my 3 h.p. Unisaw. Yet it's "rated" at half the h.p. You might expect that the '80's 3 h.p. saw would have twice as much power as the '60's 1.5 h.p. saw. But that's not the case. Maybe they rated h.p. differently from the '60's to the '80's? All I know is from abundant use of both saws, ripping in oak, doug fir, etc is close to equal. The 3 h.p. saw does NOT cut twice as powerfully as the 1.5 h.p. saw.

'65 Uni right after I restored it 5 years ago. This one stays in my shop.

Here's my job saw. Yes I've hauled this one around to job sites.
It's a '62 Unisaw, but with an '80's 3 h.p. motor. Both saws have Biesemeyer fences which I have used for over 30 years--love the Bies fences.

Note how the motor is longer than the 1.5. That's how they get more h.p. out of it, they lengthen the armature and stator.

And last but not least. Here's a picture of a NEW Unisaw. Sitting at Tool Time, in Burbank, waiting to be sent back to the factory because one of the interior castings broke. Older is better IMO. If you're in So. Cal., Tool Time is a great place to go for tools. I also had them service my Milwaukee's from time to time.