Unistrut question.

[FL Guy]

I’m in the process of hanging this Unistrut on a beam.
The beam is not perfectly level to the ground. It’s a tad more than a 1/8” off. Two small washers will fill the gap.

Does the unistrut need to be perfectly horizontal to the ground or will I be good to go with it being off center a little?
A small electric hoist will be mounted on a trolley.

 

[Shiftless]

I would shim it so that the sides of the unistrut are vertical. Otherwise, the trolley will not run evenly on the two edges. Do I understand your question?

 

[Old tool guy]

Why is the right side of the unistrut not touching the beam?

 

[readhead]

What is the strut hanging from? Do you realize that most tube steel buildings have no collateral load designed in the roof system. The roof system is designed to only hold up its self and a snow load if required. Maybe your building is different but you may want to find out or provide some support independent of the building to attach the strut to.

 

[FL Guy]

Why is the right side of the unistrut not touching the beam?

It’s flimsy 12ga steel. Once the bolts sandwich everything together it’ll all flatten out.

 

[FL Guy]

I would shim it so that the sides of the unistrut are vertical. Otherwise, the trolley will not run evenly on the two edges. Do I understand your question?

Yes you understood my question and it does make sense now that you mention it about the trolley not running evenly on the two edges

 

[PoorUB]

I would shim it, perhaps some composite door and window shims would work. They are tougher than they look!

Or hang it from short pieces of thresded rod and bend the rod slightly.

 

[ycgoat]

I second the concerns of what kind of load you are putting on it, but expect that when you do put a load on it it will self level.

 

[kngelv]

The strut should be level to start. Self leveling under load is just wishful thinking. A few questions. How much of a load are you planning, what is the size of the beam, and how are you attaching the strut? Also can that beam even be used to support an additional load? Can you post a pic of the ceiling? We have numerous trolley systems at work and if they are not level the the wheels are not going to roll well.

James

 

[FL Guy]

The strut should be level to start. Self leveling under load is just wishful thinking. A few questions. How much of a load are you planning, what is the size of the beam, and how are you attaching the strut? Also can that beam even be used to support an additional load? Can you post a pic of the ceiling? We have numerous trolley systems at work and if they are not level the the wheels are not going to roll well.

James

I have (6) 3/8” 9” long grade 8 bolts equally spaced out between the two rails.
Where the joints are connected with sheet metal screws, another 3/8” bolt is holding it securely together. The ends of the frame rail are sitting on top of other rails on each end that make up the opening. So the ceiling frame
Work is not ultimately bearing all the weight. I would say it’s probably holding 10-20% of the weight.
Maximum weight i need to lift is probably 150lbs.

 

[kngelv]

You should have no issues for that light of a load. If your off a little over an 1/8" then what about grabbing a piece of 10ga and see if that levels it since 10ga is just over an 1/8" thick. If that works you could weld a long thin strip of 10ga to the beam and then place the strut against it or you could use a bunch of steel wedges. I would also advise getting some two hole plates for the strut to use as hard stops for the trolley's versus the clevis pin setup you have now.

James

 

[FL Guy]

You should have no issues for that light of a load. If your off a little over an 1/8" then what about grabbing a piece of 10ga and see if that levels it since 10ga is just over an 1/8" thick. If that works you could weld a long thin strip of 10ga to the beam and then place the strut against it or you could use a bunch of steel wedges. I would also advise getting some two hole plates for the strut to use as hard stops for the trolley's versus the clevis pin setup you have now.

James

Thanks!
What are two hole plates?

 

[kngelv]

Thanks!
What are two hole plates?

Just mount one of these on each end with B-Line spring nuts or Hilti MQM's. This gives you a much more solid base to crash into if needed.

James

 

[dfiler2]

I would shim it also, just use a shim at every bolt point, I would also have a couple of correct length 4x4s ready to slide under the rail just in case you ever do need to lift something heavy. I have a similar rail for lifting heavy furniture that's been working great for a few years.

 

[manwithtools]

@kngelv The clevis pin is actually a better stop than the two hole plate.

 

[FL Guy]

I would shim it also, just use a shim at every bolt point, I would also have a couple of correct length 4x4s ready to slide under the rail just in case you ever do need to lift something heavy. I have a similar rail for lifting heavy furniture that's been working great for a few years.

Tell me more about the camera hanging from the extension cord..

 

[dfiler2]

Ha, I wanted a camera on the outside of my shop building to try and figure out who was dumping garbage there. They came in a 2 pack and it actually works pretty well , I was on vacation the past couple of weeks so I plugged one into that cord so I could watch the shop. Was easy to set up, just put their app on my phone, you can have them store the info for a fee, but I don't have a need for that. It comes with the 2 adapters for plugging in a cord or just screw it into a standard bulb socket.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BLMKDMVW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[kngelv]

@kngelv The clevis pin is actually a better stop than the two hole plate.

Not true. Also there is no end cap on the strut like you would have with unified rail. If the clevis pin goes then the whole shebang will come right out of the strut and hit the ground, equipment or someone. Not a good method at all.

James

 

[manwithtools]

No, it is true, look up double shear vs. tensioned connections. The clevis pin is not "going" unless it's fully sheard in two. It's a great method. Not going to push that pin through the walls of the strut or shear the pin. On the other hand, you could push the single bolt and nut clamping the two hole plate on to the strut off the end of the strut with enough force. The clamping bolt and nut will fail before the clevis pin.