Unlevel Slab at Man-Door Opening

[Yookdew]

Looking for advice on how to deal with this issue.

My concrete in the area where the threshold for the man-door will go is slightly un-level from right to left. It is about 1/4" off which is enough to cause the door frame to be out of square when I get the hinge side of the frame level and plumb.

I have not started mounting the door yet, I was just taking a quick look to see how difficult it would be to install.

After reading about numerous ways to deal with this issue, the one way that looks pretty easy is to use a mastic for made setting tile in the area where the threshold goes. Then set the threshold in the mastic, level the threshold/attach the door and then let the mastic cure.

Does this sound like a reasonable fix to this issue or does anybody have any other ideas?

 

[Rusted Nut]

Shim the low side, install the door, then pack non shrink grout under the threshold.

 

[The Cobbler]

^^^X2 . that's what I would do

 

[Walkers]

X3

 

[Yookdew]

X3

Is this the type of grout that would work?

SAKRETE 50 lb. Non-Shrink Precision Grout 65450041 - The Home Depot

SAKRETE Non-Shrink Precision Grout is a high strength, non-metallic structural grout for anchoring machinery, bearing plates and more. Use in a variety of applications where high-strength grouting is necessary. This structural cement can also be used for concrete columns.

www.homedepot.com

What would be the process to "pack" it under the threshold. Would you use a trowel to force it under the threshold or is there better method?

Thanks for the advice. I'm hoping to get this door installed this weekend.

 

[Rusted Nut]

Yes, that grout would work. Mix it fairly dry, not soupy. Pack it in with a trowel, stick, finger…. Just make sure it ps key in good, rod off the edge with a trowel or mortar joint tool.

 

[rayra]

Yes, shim the door level for mounting and pack it after. Last thing you want to do is mess with leveling a door with mastic involved. Just be a mess to deal with.

Depending on how large of an area is out of level and needs correcting, you can also use 'self-leveling' cement and put a form board or sturdy tape barrier to the outside and pour that soup in to fill and level the floor area up to the bottom of the threshold. And using a small diamond trowel (with its offset handle) and an aid to working the self-leveling compound fully under the door sill would be helpful as well.
There's also a primer / bonding agent to put down first and it would be useful to apply it before mounting the door.

 

[The Bean]

Cut the door to match the slope. Hinge it on the low side. Done.

 

[Dig Doug]

Grind the concrete level

grout or leveling compound can / will eventually crack from expansion/ contraction

you could also trim the threshold ( bottom side ) w/ belt sander so it sits level

 

[CraigStu]

What about packing it w/ construction adhesive? That would easy to force into place and the stuff I use dries pretty dang hard. Maybe 2 shims, one at the center and one at the end held in place w/ adhesive and more adhesive in between.

 

[Yookdew]

Thanks for all of the recommendations.

I should have some time to look at it more today and see which method would work best. I'm not sure the gap will be big enough to pack grout under it and completely fill in the void. If the gap is too small to pack anything in, I may try the suggestion with construction adhesive but not packing it. I'm think if I use composite shims to get the door level, then trim and glue the shims in place. I could then put a thick coating of construction adhesive on the bottom of the threshold including filling in the voids. Then put some more construction adhesive on the concrete on the end where the gap is. Then I could set the threshold and pack a little more adhesive in to fill any small voids left. Does this sound like it would work?

 

[Yookdew]

Cut the door to match the slope. Hinge it on the low side. Done.

This is a pre-hung steel insulated door with an aluminum threshold so cutting the door and/or jamb wouldn't work in this case.

 

[Hank11]

Thanks for all of the recommendations.

I should have some time to look at it more today and see which method would work best. I'm not sure the gap will be big enough to pack grout under it and completely fill in the void. If the gap is too small to pack anything in, I may try the suggestion with construction adhesive but not packing it. I'm think if I use composite shims to get the door level, then trim and glue the shims in place. I could then put a thick coating of construction adhesive on the bottom of the threshold including filling in the voids. Then put some more construction adhesive on the concrete on the end where the gap is. Then I could set the threshold and pack a little more adhesive in to fill any small voids left. Does this sound like it would work?

Yes, that will work. Get the shims set so the door goes into place correctly, put down a bed of construction adhesive and set the door on it. Tape the area around the edges of the threshold for easier clean up. You might also put some adhesive on the bottom of the threshold so you get full contact. If you want it removable later, put a couple coats of paste wax on the bottom of the threshold before the glue.

 

[The Cobbler]

a strong no to cutting the door to fit. grinding concrete would be very very low on my list , too.
doesn't sound you're too out of level. I would shim the end & the middle, run a few good heavy beads of caulking and set it in place . Try to stay off the threshold until caulking is cured .

 

[Old tool guy]

What about packing it w/ construction adhesive? That would easy to force into place and the stuff I use dries pretty dang hard. Maybe 2 shims, one at the center and one at the end held in place w/ adhesive and more adhesive in between.

A cementitious product would be better.

 

[Yookdew]

I shimmed the threshold and as you can see in the pic, it's about 1/4 to 5/16 out.

I also posted a pic of the bottom of the threshold. It has some voids in it before there is the solid area made to sit on the floor. I'm worried that if I try to pack anything from the side, it won't actually get under the flat area to make a good base since the gap is so small and there are the voids the material would push up into instead being force under the flat area.

That leads me to thinking I could get the shins set and glued to the floor. Then use something I can get to stick to the bottom of the threshold and the concrete before I set the door in so I can build up enough material on the end with the bigger gap. Then set the door down onto the shins and whatever material is used and push the theeshold down until it's on the shins and level. I could use tape on the floor so any material that oozes out is easy to clean up once the door is set.

Now I'm trying to figure out what material would work best. Non-shrink grout, construction adhesive or something else?

Also for the more experienced, does this sound like a good plan to deal with this issue?

 

[Hank11]

While what I wrote previously is the most straightforward, you could build a little form and pour a level pad of self leveling compound just for the size of the threshold and then put the door down on that. But it’ll be real easy to pack it full of construction adhesive and leave it alone for a couple of days. I doubt you will ever have any trouble out of it.

 

[Old tool guy]

A series of plastic shims and blobs of liquid nails to keep them in place.

 

[Firstram]

Thanks for all of the recommendations.

I should have some time to look at it more today and see which method would work best. I'm not sure the gap will be big enough to pack grout under it and completely fill in the void. If the gap is too small to pack anything in, I may try the suggestion with construction adhesive but not packing it. I'm think if I use composite shims to get the door level, then trim and glue the shims in place. I could then put a thick coating of construction adhesive on the bottom of the threshold including filling in the voids. Then put some more construction adhesive on the concrete on the end where the gap is. Then I could set the threshold and pack a little more adhesive in to fill any small voids left. Does this sound like it would work?

Way too much work, you'll never such a tight area packed well.

Caulk a 1x2 down to the cement flush to the inside of the threshold and pull the door out. Spray the outside of the slab with 77 spray and make a tape dam on the exterior. Pour enough self leveling compound to get a level surface.

Once it's cured, install the pan or caulking bed and enjoy a non flexing threshold! That is if you step on it when entering. One of my pet peeves, don't wear it out before the homeowner even moves in!

 

[Yookdew]

Way too much work, you'll never such a tight area packed well.

Caulk a 1x2 down to the cement flush to the inside of the threshold and pull the door out. Spray the outside of the slab with 77 spray and make a tape dam on the exterior. Pour enough self leveling compound to get a level surface.

Once it's cured, install the pan or caulking bed and enjoy a non flexing threshold! That is if you step on it when entering. One of my pet peeves, don't wear it out before the homeowner even moves in!

I think self leveler is the answer here. As I continued to look at it, I realized even if I level the area made to sit on the floor, the front side of the aluminum would then have tp be shimmed separately and would be hard to get stable. If I self evel the whole area, I can just set the door in, shim it like normal and be done with it.

I can easily use wood on both sides as a dam for the self leveler. What would normally be used to seal the wood to the concrete so the self leveler doesn't run under the wood? or is it thick enough it won't run under?

Also, does this look like what I need? it is rated for outdoor use.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-...-Self-Leveling-Underlayment-LQ50/100192482oes

Do you think I would need one of these primers also. The first primer appears to be a sealer for porous material and I don't think I need that since my concrete is smooth and doesn't soak up water. The second one is a bonding primer which is what I would think I need, if i do need a primer. I hate to spend $50 on a gallon of primer for such a small area but I will if that is what it takes to do it right.

Custom Building Products LevelQuik 1 qt. Acrylic Primer and Sealer CPQT - The Home Depot

Make use of this Custom Building Products LevelQuik Latex Primer for residential and commercial applications. Provides durability.

www.homedepot.com

Custom Building Products MBP 1 Gal. Multi-Surface Bonding Primer CPMBP1 - The Home Depot

Multi-Surface Bonding Primer from Custom Building Products is suitable for commercial and residential usage. Easy to use.

www.homedepot.com

Thanks for all the help and ideas so far.

 

[pcmeiners]

I would grind it with a circular diamond disk on a 4" grinder, everything else is a temporary fix.

 

[Sumboodie]

Way too much work, you'll never such a tight area packed well.

Caulk a 1x2 down to the cement flush to the inside of the threshold and pull the door out. Spray the outside of the slab with 77 spray and make a tape dam on the exterior. Pour enough self leveling compound to get a level surface.

Once it's cured, install the pan or caulking bed and enjoy a non flexing threshold! That is if you step on it when entering. One of my pet peeves, don't wear it out before the homeowner even moves in!

No idea why people step on the threshold

 

[Firstram]

I think self leveler is the answer here. As I continued to look at it, I realized even if I level the area made to sit on the floor, the front side of the aluminum would then have tp be shimmed separately and would be hard to get stable. If I self evel the whole area, I can just set the door in, shim it like normal and be done with it.

I can easily use wood on both sides as a dam for the self leveler. What would normally be used to seal the wood to the concrete so the self leveler doesn't run under the wood? or is it thick enough it won't run under?

Also, does this look like what I need? it is rated for outdoor use.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-...-Self-Leveling-Underlayment-LQ50/100192482oes

Do you think I would need one of these primers also. The first primer appears to be a sealer for porous material and I don't think I need that since my concrete is smooth and doesn't soak up water. The second one is a bonding primer which is what I would think I need, if i do need a primer. I hate to spend $50 on a gallon of primer for such a small area but I will if that is what it takes to do it right.

Custom Building Products LevelQuik 1 qt. Acrylic Primer and Sealer CPQT - The Home Depot

Make use of this Custom Building Products LevelQuik Latex Primer for residential and commercial applications. Provides durability.

www.homedepot.com

Custom Building Products MBP 1 Gal. Multi-Surface Bonding Primer CPMBP1 - The Home Depot

Multi-Surface Bonding Primer from Custom Building Products is suitable for commercial and residential usage. Easy to use.

www.homedepot.com

Thanks for all the help and ideas so far.

To be honest, I'd scuff the area with a grinder/diamond blade to give it some tooth and skip the primer. I would also set the exterior "form board" level elevated to 3/16ish higher than the low side and just fill with Versabond LFT thinset. The Versabond is heavy bodied and quite sticky by itself. If you have any portland cement, a slurry brushed on to rough concrete just before you apply thinset makes a fantastic bonding agent.

Custom Building Products VersaBond-LFT 50 lb. Gray Fast-Setting Medium Bed Mortar for Large Format Tile and Stone VBLFTMG50 - The Home Depot

VersaBond-LFT Fortified Medium Bed Mortar is a general purpose, economical, polymer-modified medium bed mortar for use with large format porcelain, ceramic and natural stone tile. With a non-slumping formula to eliminate lippage, VersaBond-LFT can be applied to 3/4 in. (19 mm) thick on...

www.homedepot.com

That's just me, I seem to do a lot of tile and stone and have this stuff on hand and I trust it to be durable. The cheaper primer and self leveler would do just fine as long as it's exterior rated!

 

[Hank11]

The self leveler will likely crack some, but won't really matter as it will still do its job. Don't put any wood under there.