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Unsatisfied with floor pour

00si2

Active member
Joined
Jan 29, 2009
Messages
41
Location
Pittsburgh, Pa
I just had my floor poured a few weeks ago and I'm not quite pleased with it and am not sure what to do about it. I've attached a drawing of what i gave the contractor prior to the pour. I went over everything and he had a good understanding of what i was going for and didn't have any problems with anything. I've known the contractor for a few years and is the same contractor that my dad used to pour his basement a few years ago. He also did all my block work and i am happy with that.

The drawing is pretty self explanatory but ill give a quick explanation and pretty much what was said to the contractor.

Its a 32' x 45' 2 stall garage, two trench drains in the center of each stall and 2 pads for a future lift installation. The stall with the lift is a "project area" and the other stall is for parking. I installed the trench drains keeping the purpose of each space in mind. The project stall has very minimal slope with the drain installed about 3/4" (1/8" per foot slope) below the finished floor and the parking bay is about 1.5" (1/4" per foot slope) below. The thinker lines are expansion joints. The top right corner is a bathroom with everything sloped to a corner drain.

floorpour.jpg


I was there for the pour but this is the first time I've watched concrete being poured. The only problem was the estimate on the amount of concrete. It took about 3 yards more than calculated. I couldn't figure out why it used more at the time because I took a lot of time leveling everything out using a laser level and actually sloping the gravel to the drains so i had a full 5" thick slab everywhere. I went back a couple days later not to happy with the results and realized why it used more concrete right away.

They got the perimeter height correct but about 2 or 3 feet inside the whole perimeter the concrete raises about an inch. It stays an inch high for a few feet and then tapers off to the drains. The strip down the center is the same way, about an inch high. Since the perimeter was raised an inch it pretty much doubled the floor slope in both stalls. I think it looks like a wavy mess. And on top of that I'm going to have something that looks like a moat if water gets to the perimeters.

I really don't know what to do at this point. Am i being overly picky? Was the slope layout to complicated (although nothing was said before the pour)? What are your guys thoughts?
 
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PecosBill

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2010
Messages
120
Location
Oregon
It can be fixed, using some products I've mentioned recently. But the first hurdle is determining whether the contractor accepts responsibility, and whether he will absorb the cost to fix it, which will be substantial. Have you discussed this with him?
 
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00si2

Active member
Joined
Jan 29, 2009
Messages
41
Location
Pittsburgh, Pa
It can be fixed, using some products I've mentioned recently. But the first hurdle is determining whether the contractor accepts responsibility, and whether he will absorb the cost to fix it, which will be substantial. Have you discussed this with him?

I haven't yet discussed with the contractor. He's been away for the holidays. I haven't paid him yet either so that should give me a little leverage.

Ill look around at you have mentioned.

Thanks!
 
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folgers

Active member
Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Messages
28
Location
Illinois
You said you were there for the pour...did they have grade stakes (rebar) set out 3 feet from the walls to show top of concrete and the start of the slope. I'm just wondering what if anything they set up to insure they got the placement right. The slope layout wasn't too complicated we do pours similar to that in 2 stall garages with 2 drains all the time. Sounds like the contractor screwed up and should make it right with you, even if he has to tear it out.
 

PecosBill

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2010
Messages
120
Location
Oregon
You can go over what he has poured with a self-leveling topping, and then on the sloped areas a slope and fill patch can be used.

I would recommend the following products, just remember to have whoever installs them to follow the instructions to the letter. You are lucky to have fresh clean concrete to work with, but priming, and possibly profiling the concrete to ensure a good mechanical bond is critical.

http://www.mapei.com/public/COM/products/Ultratop_TDS_EA.pdf
http://www.mapei.com/public/COM/products/MapecemQuickpatch_TDS_EA.pdf
 
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