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Unusual Jackshaft Opener Install Help/Ideas Requested

kngelv

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May 25, 2011
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Location
Detroit, MI
I'm in the process of installing a MaxJax lift in my garage and want to remove my belt-drive Liftmaster opener and switch to a jackshaft type so I have more lift height available. Unfortunately I don't have any side room for the install. I'm thinking of notching out a corner wall stud so I can fit either a Genie or Liftmaster opener. I only have 6" to the wall but would notch out another 3-4" so it would fit. Has anyone done this? Any downsides? My other idea was to possibly mount it on the ceiling and get a Liftmaster 480 LM kit as pictured with a longer chain. I'm open to any suggestions like another method. Side mounting the existing opener or going with a Genie or other brand that might work.

James
 

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Mikes61

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Dec 25, 2023
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234
One of the garage door opener companies have a side mount opener that mounts below the spring tube and attaches to the tube with a chain and sprocket. By looking at your pics, that would work for you
 

rsanter

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Dec 22, 2007
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visalia ca
I have need people take the standard type garage door opener and move or to the side by the track and t work fine.
Since you have it I think I would give that a shot first.

Also I see you don’t have much ceiling heigh, I would also look at mounting direct to the ceiling
 

larry4406

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Jan 27, 2006
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Northern Virginia
Similar thread - OP cut the torsion tube and some drywall that was in his way (no drywall for you).

If you have a torsion spring, this link indicates that you can move your existing opener fully to the side next to your track.

Here is another setup where the overhead opener was moved fully to the side next to the track. Not sure what spring setup it has.

It is important that the arm be attached to a reinforced part of the door.

Keep us posted.
 

kbuhagiar

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Dec 27, 2005
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Escondido, CA
It is important that the arm be attached to a reinforced part of the door.

^^^This^^^

My in-laws' garage door opener (on their 8 x 16 door) had been relocated off to the far right side years ago by a well-meaning relative in an attempt to 'fix' some undetermined problem. One day I was called over to help figure out why the door wouldn't open. In its fully closed position, the bottom right edge of the door (where the opener was attached) sat almost an inch off the ground; the opening force applied to one side of the door over the years had literally transformed it from a rectangle to a parallelogram. The door did have a reinforcing bracket running along the top over its entire length, and the opener bracket was attached to it, but it didn't appear to help. (The lift assist springs were also badly out of adjustment, which I'm sure also contributed to the problem).

I oversaw the installation of a new door and opener, and consulted with the installer; we could not determine why the opener had been moved in the first place. The new opener was installed in the customary location and door and opener operated flawlessly for years until they sold the house.
 
OP
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kngelv

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May 25, 2011
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Detroit, MI
Similar thread - OP cut the torsion tube and some drywall that was in his way (no drywall for you).

If you have a torsion spring, this link indicates that you can move your existing opener fully to the side next to your track.

Here is another setup where the overhead opener was moved fully to the side next to the track. Not sure what spring setup it has.

It is important that the arm be attached to a reinforced part of the door.

Keep us posted.
Thanks for the links. I had seen the first one before but not the others. I also saw one where someone had a large wheel on the torsion bar end and the opener was hanging sideways with the belt going directly to the gear wheel. Can't find that again though. I'm installing the MaxJax today so I'm taking the current opener down. I might go buy the new Liftmaster Jackshaft and see if it fits. I really need the exact width of the unit body by itself. Not including the coupler.

James
 

andyvh1959

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Feb 15, 2020
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Location
Green Bay WI
Thinking a bit out of the corner, would a right angle gearbox be an option? Install the gearbox to operate on the torsion spring shaft. Other side of the gearbox attaches to the opener mounted on the side wall. A garage door is a pretty low duty cycle, steady power application, generally around 1/2 HP to maybe 2HP, low speed when in operation.

Perhaps not this actual company, but there are other right angle gearboxes rated for much higherduty cycle than a garage door opener:

 
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M.Wong

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May 5, 2021
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Seattle, WA
I really need the exact width of the unit body by itself. Not including the coupler.
I just measured mine and the plastic body looks 6" wide (well, 6.01" per the spec sheet.) It's not perfectly square, the front is slightly wider than the main body. There are couplers (spindles?) on both sides, they stick out about .75" each way (.75" left of the body and .75" right of the body.)

Not 100% precise, but these photos might help?

IMG_3383.jpg

IMG_3384.jpg
Scale ruler against the right side of the plastic body near the coupler...
IMG_3382.jpg
IMG_3381.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
K

kngelv

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May 25, 2011
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Location
Detroit, MI
I just measured mine and the plastic body looks 6" wide (well, 6.01" per the spec sheet.) It's not perfectly square, the front is slightly wider than the main body. There are couplers (spindles?) on both sides, they stick out about .75" each way (.75" left of the body and .75" right of the body.)

Not 100% precise, but these photos might help?

IMG_3383.jpg

IMG_3384.jpg
Scale ruler against the right side of the plastic body near the coupler...
IMG_3382.jpg
IMG_3381.jpg
Thank you so much. This is exactly what I needed.

James
 

Dakota00

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Joined
Mar 9, 2008
Messages
1,078
Location
Woodbridge, Ontario
OP, I did exactly what you are thinking of doing for a buddy of mine a few years ago. Cut a portion of the torsion tube to make the installation of the opener easier. Here's a couple of pictures of the install and the finished job, with the removeable access panel in place.

P-20160812-184247.jpg

P-20170715-134540.jpg
 

Century

Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2011
Messages
7
I had to do the same with one of mine. Here is a picture. No issues other than not really being able to insulate the cavity. I painted the OSB black so it blends in.

1714503187582.jpeg
 
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