Unusual Tips and Tricks

[kartracer55]

I saw a similar thread on another board, and figured I would start one over here. There are quite a few members who really know their **** and I would definetly like to learn from them. I would like to keep this leaning more towards automotive/repair type stuff

Here are my top 3...

1. Long Screwdrivers (and even prybars) are excellent for diagnosing noises. Wrap hand around grip and place thumb over the top, and place your ear to your thumb. They transfer noise very well.

2. Got a tough lugnut? (or any nut/bolt for that matter). Instead of hammering and hammering at it and risking beaking it, Try "rocking" the gun in forward and reverse a few times. Use a couple quick bursts. This helps to break the rust/oxidation between the threads. Of course, having a decently powerfull gun helps as well, but this seems to work just about every time I have tried it. Larger threads? Hammer just a tad longer each way. I usually run into problems on cars with lug "bolts," because the back of the hub is usually open, making them rust together quickly.

3. Got a gap in a floorpan or something you need to bridge? Either clamp or hold a small piece of aluminum the joint and tack the gaps together. The steel filler wire wont bond to the aluminum plate. It takes abit of getting used too, and it is still hard, but it makes it a bit easier with some practice.

Jim

 

[OctaneMotorsports]

My tip of the day:

Got flat tires? Put air in them!

So genius it deserves a patent.

 

[May Pop]

Locking lugnut but no key? Take a deep impact socket slightly larger than the regular size than beat it on to the locking lug. Remove as normal. Works every time. Ron

 

[muddy]

pilot bushing removal........put wheel bearing grease in the hole in center of pilot bushing. Use a steel rod,etc. that has an o.d. just smaller than the i.d. of the pilot bushing and put it in the hole of pilot bushing.
Use a hammer to whack the rod, and as it goes into pilot bushing, the wheel bearing grease hydraulics the pilot bushing out .......

 

[trunk37]

pilot bushing removal Part 2

If you don't want grease all over the place try a fresh slice of white bread.

 

[bmwpower]

Trying to remove a stuck bolt/nut with an impact:
Use to shortest/thickest extension you can. Less flex in the shaft equates to more torque at the bolt/nut.

 

[URY914]

Tip #1: If you can't figure something out-come here and ask a question.

 

[toxicz28]

3. Got a gap in a floorpan or something you need to bridge? Either clamp or hold a small piece of aluminum the joint and tack the gaps together. The steel filler wire wont bond to the aluminum plate. It takes abit of getting used too, and it is still hard, but it makes it a bit easier with some practice.

Jim

Try copper. It'll work better and won't melt from the heat.

 

[Rickster]

Locking lugnut but no key? Take a deep impact socket slightly larger than the regular size than beat it on to the locking lug. Remove as normal. Works every time. Ron

Hey, I've done that!

 

[JohnZ]

1. Variation for pilot bushing removal - run a 5/8" tap through the bushing to thread it, then install a 5/8" bolt until it bottoms out in the crank, then keep turning - will pull the bushing right out.

2. When you need to pull a Chevy 4-speed (T-10, Muncie, etc.), get a couple of 1/2"-13 bolts, cut the heads off, round them off on a grinder, then cut a screwdriver slot with a hacksaw. Pull the top two ****** bolts, replace with the 1/2" studs, remove the bottom bolts, and pull the ****** rearward; the studs will support the weight of the box as you pull, keeps the weight off the clutch disc. When installing, they help guide and center the ****** while keeping the weight off the clutch disc; when it's seated, remove the two studs and replace with the regular bolts. Get a plastic output shaft plug too - keeps the smelly lube off the floor while you're wrestling with the ******.

 

[bmwpower]

"Free" punches:
When removing/reinstalling a cylinder head that requires new head bolts during the reinstall, keep 2 or 3 of the old head bolts. These bolts are typically hardened, long and super durable. I use mine as punches. The large head makes it easy to whack with a hammer.

 

[MyDomain]

A little dab of valve grinding compound (paste) on the end of a Phillips screwdriver will give it the grip you need to avoid stripping the head. Tough screws come right out.

 

[eschoendorff]

A little dab of valve grinding compound (paste) on the end of a Phillips screwdriver will give it the grip you need to avoid stripping the head. Tough screws come right out.

Damn, that's a good idea!

 

[TNToy]

Impact Drivers (aka Impact Screwdrivers) work better for that. Everyone should own one. One of my 10 favorite tools evaaar.

 

[MyDomain]

Damn, that's a good idea!

Thanks It has won me a lot of those tips contests

 

[eschoendorff]

Impact Drivers (aka Impact Screwdrivers) work better for that. Everyone should own one. One of my 10 favorite tools evaaar.

Is this what you mean?

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/LIS-29200.html

 

[Big_John]

If you have to get to a bolt in a tight space with an extension and a u-joint or swivel socket, wrap the u-joint with electrical tape.

That will stop the u-joint from flopping around, yet will still flex as needed.

 

[TNToy]

Is this what you mean?

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/LIS-29200.html

Yes. How do YOU not know about these?

Install the correct slot, torx, philips, etc bit on the end, twist it, and whack it with a hammer. Drives the bit down into the screw with a crapload of force at the exact same time it snaps to the side, really hard. They work great, as long as you don't strip the head completely trying to remove it with a screwdriver first.

You know those phillips screws the japanese stick in the brake rotors on their cars? The single tiny one that holds the rotor in place, that you always strip? They come right out.

Work great on stripped screws with button heads, too. Cut a slot in stirpped phillips head with a cutoff tool, and use a slot blade on the impact to whack it free. Works pretty much every time... as long as you can get in there. The only downside to an impact driver is that it's pretty bulky compared to a swerdriver, and you need room to hit it fairly hard with a hammer.

Mine is a Snap-On, so I don't know how well those bits will last. I would recommend getting a Snap-On #2 philips bit in 3/8" drive if that one's bits turn out to be less than awesome. My snappy bits have held up to a lot of beatings from one of these, and still look brand new. Who knows, though... the Lisle bits might be just as good.

Since they usually have a 3/8" drive on the end, they work pretty well on frozen bolts for those of you who don't have an impact wrench, too. Just stick a socket on the end, smack it, and spin it off iwth a ratchet.

 

[toolfreak]

An impact driver is a must have tool. I had a Husky brand when I was a teen for working on four wheelers and finally upgraded to Snap On about two years ago and there is no comparison between the two imo. The Husky works ok and the bits held up better than I thought they would but I recommend getting snap on if used very much.

 

[eschoendorff]

Yes. How do YOU not know about these?

Install the correct slot, torx, philips, etc bit on the end, twist it, and whack it with a hammer. Drives the bit down into the screw with a crapload of force at the exact same time it snaps to the side, really hard. They work great, as long as you don't strip the head completely trying to remove it with a screwdriver first.

You know those phillips screws the japanese stick in the brake rotors on their cars? The single tiny one that holds the rotor in place, that you always strip? They come right out.

Work great on stripped screws with button heads, too. Cut a slot in stirpped phillips head with a cutoff tool, and use a slot blade on the impact to whack it free. Works pretty much every time... as long as you can get in there. The only downside to an impact driver is that it's pretty bulky compared to a swerdriver, and you need room to hit it fairly hard with a hammer.

Mine is a Snap-On, so I don't know how well those bits will last. I would recommend getting a Snap-On #2 philips bit in 3/8" drive if that one's bits turn out to be less than awesome. My snappy bits have held up to a lot of beatings from one of these, and still look brand new. Who knows, though... the Lisle bits might be just as good.

Since they usually have a 3/8" drive on the end, they work pretty well on frozen bolts for those of you who don't have an impact wrench, too. Just stick a socket on the end, smack it, and spin it off iwth a ratchet.

Oh, I know about it... have one in my garage (the exact Lisle version that I posted). I was just trying to clarify that that is what you were talking about (sometimes I'm a little slow ).

 

[KeukaDan]

An impact driver is a must have tool. I had a Husky brand when I was a teen for working on four wheelers and finally upgraded to Snap On about two years ago and there is no comparison between the two imo. The Husky works ok and the bits held up better than I thought they would but I recommend getting snap on if used very much.

I have a Husky and am wondering how the Snap On is so much better? I dont want to hear the same, "Because SnapOn is better" because I dont consider that a good reason, I am wondering what makes it better mechanically so I can get one if I feel it is worth it. My Husky has never let me down so I dont have any reason to buy a new one but I never turn down the chance to upgrade if it is for more than just the name.

 

[TNToy]

No help here. Only ever had the Snappy version.

(I love how this turned from a discussion on random tips... into a thread on impact drivers. Behold, the homotastic power of internet conversion.)

 

[wilbilt]

When inflating a tubeless tire that won't "catch" air, wrap a piece of rope around the circumference of the tread. slide a bar or long screwdriver under the rope and twist it a few times. This will usually spread the beads enough to catch air.

Be ready to untwist it and remove the rope quickly as the tire inflates.


When removing axles from a c-clip rear end, the cross-pin retaining bolt is often broken. You can remove the "head" of the bolt, but the remainder often stays in the carrier. To easily remove it, get a short bolt of the same size and pitch of the retaining bolt. The broken bolt can be used, if necessary.

Drill a 9/64" hole through the bolt along the centerline. Threading it into a nut and clamping vertically in a drill press vise works well.

Thread the drilled bolt into the carrier housing, over the broken section of pin. It will now serve as a drill guide. A 12" long 1/8" bit can be used to drill into the pin, and the drilled bolt will keep it centered. The long length provides enough flexibility to work around obstructions, such as the rear end housing.

Once the pin is drilled 1/4" or so, remove the bolt and tap in a 1/8" screw extractor. Grab the extractor with some pliers and pull the pin out.

It sounds complicated, but is very simple and works well.

 

[Willy Victor]

I have a Sears hand impact driver made in the USA part no. 9 47634. It's at least 30yrs. old, still like new. Only drawback it's in a plastic pouch which is showing it's age. A very handy tool at times.

Willy

 

[lilpeenoiracer]

I have a Sears hand impact driver made in the USA part no. 9 47634. It's at least 30yrs. old, still like new. Only drawback it's in a plastic pouch which is showing it's age. A very handy tool at times.

Willy

at least your impact driver came with a case my craps man one didnt and i ended up getting a snap on one with my discount and sold my sears one to a friend for 20summin bucks. i havent used the snap on one yet but the sears on only came in use a few times ended up strpping out the head and a drill bit just the right size will wrk great for drilling out those 2 rusted philips screws that hold the damn rotors in place.

 

[TNToy]

Yeah, but why drill it if you can back it right out.

You're probably missing the important secret step:

1. Remove lugnuts & wheel from vehicle.
2. Run a couple lugnuts back onto the studs with an impact to take the clamping force off of the tiny phillips screw.
3. Use an impact driver to break the phillips screw in the brake rotor loose.

Step 2 is pretty important. The screw is usually under too much tension if you skip that one.

 

[bmwpower]

Kinda a tip:
Step 4: Replace rotor and screw. Don't crank down on the screw - it just needs to be snug enough to hold the rotor in place. A little dab of anti sieze on the threads will keep the rust away.

I've done my own share of drilling the heads off since I don't have an impact driver.

 

[toolfreak]

I have a Husky and am wondering how the Snap On is so much better? I dont want to hear the same, "Because SnapOn is better" because I dont consider that a good reason, I am wondering what makes it better mechanically so I can get one if I feel it is worth it. My Husky has never let me down so I dont have any reason to buy a new one but I never turn down the chance to upgrade if it is for more than just the name.

Before I bought the snap on impact driver I was using the husky trying to remove screws in the cab of an excavator and didn't have much luck. A guy in the shop handed me the snappy one and told me to try it. I removed all but one screw and then broke the tip off the bit.

 

[lilpeenoiracer]

Before I bought the snap on impact driver I was using the husky trying to remove screws in the cab of an excavator and didn't have much luck. A guy in the shop handed me the snappy one and told me to try it. I removed all but one screw and then broke the tip off the bit.

wow i was never told to do step 2 and never though about it. will try next time. thank u.

 

[ranger_dood]

If you're trying to sync up the carbs on a multi-carb vehicle, use a piece of hose. Hold one end to your ear, and put the other down by the carb opening. Adjust until they both **** the same

 

[Hurricane]

I have a Husky and am wondering how the Snap On is so much better? I dont want to hear the same, "Because SnapOn is better" because I dont consider that a good reason, I am wondering what makes it better mechanically so I can get one if I feel it is worth it. My Husky has never let me down so I dont have any reason to buy a new one but I never turn down the chance to upgrade if it is for more than just the name.

i have a snapon and a craftsman. they both work equally well, but where the snap on really shines is in the bits. when you beat on the craftsman the bits get twisted/boogered up thus stripping the head of the screw. when the bits get banged up, i just stop in at sears and swap for new ones w/o any hassle, which im sure snap on would do the same, but i dont work in a shop and its more convenient to stop by sears than find a truck
________
Yamaha XV1000

 

[stupidjet]

i cant find the craftsman one on the website, any help?

 

[strizzy]

Craftsman Impact Driver: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...Automotive+Specialty+Tools&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

I have a KD tool one, freebie, works alright, doesnt seem to compare to the old mans snappy though...

One thing I do a lot is when I need to shorten a bolt, first thread on the nut below where you're going to cut, then cut it, and back the nut off and it cleans the threads...

 

[eschoendorff]

One thing I do a lot is when I need to shorten a bolt, first thread on the nut below where you're going to cut, then cut it, and back the nut off and it cleans the threads...

Good point. I've done this many times with great success.

 

[Buck_nekid]

Got a stuck, stripped, rounded off drain plug? If it is the "internal" kind tap in a old unused extension into it and run a bead around it. (careful of the aluminum or magnesium case) It it is a "square outie" do the same with a cheap socket. It makes you buy a new plug, but at least the old one is out. Plus a little heat doesn't hurt freeing it.

 

[russlaferrera]

My trick is ...on front shock absorbers, the top nut that holds the shock in place, place a proper sizes deep socket with a 2 foot extension and rock back and forth until it snaps off. This is the fastest and easy way to do it...russ

 

[bmwpower]

My trick is ...on front shock absorbers, the top nut that holds the shock in place, place a proper sizes deep socket with a 2 foot extension and rock back and forth until it snaps off. This is the fastest and easy way to do it...russ

I'm not sure I follow... you're trying to snap the top nut off a shock??

 

[Special55]

I'm not sure I follow... you're trying to snap the top nut off a shock??

If you are going to be replacing the shock there is no need to save it. As such, you just snap the top of the shock post off along with the nut.

 

[mjribeiro]

When inflating a tubeless tire that won't "catch" air, wrap a piece of rope around the circumference of the tread. slide a bar or long screwdriver under the rope and twist it a few times. This will usually spread the beads enough to catch air.

Variant of the same - I use a racheting tie down strap. Wrap it around the tread and cinch down till the sidewall touches the rim, apply air to get the tire to hold. No need for quick reaction times for either method. Once you get the sidewall to touch, simply release pressure on the strap or rope, and inflate to the correct psi.

 

[russellmn]

Variant of the same - I use a racheting tie down strap. Wrap it around the tread and cinch down till the sidewall touches the rim, apply air to get the tire to hold. No need for quick reaction times for either method. Once you get the sidewall to touch, simply release pressure on the strap or rope, and inflate to the correct psi.

I'm a fan of a liberal application of starting fluid (ether) inside the tire, then toss in a match or touch it with a torch. Stand back when you do this if you like your eyebrows though!