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update breakers in Westinghouse B10 1620CT panel?

rickpaulos

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Mar 4, 2019
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85
Location
Iowa
Westinghouse B10 1620CT panel
currently has Type BR120 breakers, new when the panel was installed, date unknown, but perhaps over 20 years ago. The installer did not write the date on the label. I don't see a date code on the label. Is there on on the breakers?

Looking to replace all the breakers with newer technology that has arc fault detection and ground fault in addition to the regular overload protection. I believe you can have a faulty connection or bad insulation in any circuit or any item plugged into any circuit so every circuit should have arc fault detection. GFI is fine for wet areas.

Main reason is this house had a fire long ago that was caused by a lamp where the wire insulation got cut by the metal base. Sparked enough to start the fire but not enough to blow the fuse. IMO, many house fires could be prevented if all the breakers had arc fault detection. I just took a clock radio away from the house owner who thought nothing of the sparks flying out of the broken feed wire. yeah, it's my mom's house. I don't want to see it burn again. Modern breakers seem to be a very cheap way to reduce the fire risk from electrical appliances.

I see there are some double breakers and some vacant spots. I'm okay with changing those doubles for singles.

There are no 220 circuits. Typical for clothes dryer, range, Air Conditioning.

I know that Westinghouse since got bought out, sold, name changed, etc. And that breakers are box brand specific. My local big box store carries 7 brands of breakers. This is nearly as bad as looking for a starter for a chevy. What do I need to look for specs wise for a proper fit? Are there specific breaker type codes for combo breakers.

And what is that screw holding the mains in about?

Westinghouse.B10.1620CT (1).jpegWestinghouse.B10.1620CT (2).jpegWestinghouse.BR120.breakers.jpeg
 
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sparky 1971

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Eaton BR series will work and should be available at any box store

The screw holding the main in is there so that it can't be taken out. I'm sure some idiot somewhere along the line pulled a main and got tickled. Unless the POCO kills the power the wires connected to the breaker are hot. There could also be a disconnect between the meter and the main but it's old enough that I doubt that's the case here.
 
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sparky 1971

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I just looked at this again from my desktop and see the two tandem breakers and two filler plates and have to ask why. My guess is that there are burned up bus stabs behind the fillers based on the locations. However, that doesn't explain the one unused space.

For those that think there are three available spaces, the "do not remove this ko" sticker that is stuck to the inside of the door is supposed to be on the ko's across from the main. And it shows on the diagram.
 
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Bert_

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Dec 24, 2016
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NW Iowa
I just looked at this again from my desktop and see the two tandem breakers and two filler plates and have to ask why. My guess is that there are burned up bus stabs behind the fillers based on the locations. However, that doesn't explain the one unused space.

For those that think there are three available spaces, the "do not remove this ko" sticker that is stuck to the inside of the door is supposed to be on the ko's across from the main. And it shows on the diagram.
These are bad about burnt aluminum buss, but I'm a little surprised that it would happen on a 20A outlet/lighting circuit.
 

sparky 1971

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I might be wrong about it, but it makes no sense to me to have the tandems if there is available space for normal breakers. And the filler plates make me wonder what's going on. With no AC breaker, if I weren't a cheapskate, I'd be willing to bet there were or are window AC's blasting all summer and possibly space heaters all winter.
 
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