I'm going to coat my garage floor with a couple of coats of Tile-Clad HS epoxy. I see that it's common to top coat with a urethane product. Can someone explain why this is done? To my simple mind the epoxy would be a better surface than the urethane material. Is this not so?
Urethane top coats?
- Thread starter Dcmeigs
- Start date
Hi, epoxies by their nature are not stain, dirt or chemical resistant. Urethanes NJ polyaspartics are so hence why they are used. Epoxy adhere much better to concrete and is thicker so working together they make an excellent surface.
Thanks. My old coating was never topcoated and as you say it looks a bit stained.
One more thing, flakes. I don't really like them. Its difficult to find something dropped on the floor smaller than a beer cap. I'm thinking of using Sharkgrip instead.
I have to think the flakes serve a purpose other than nonskid. What might that be?
One more thing, flakes. I don't really like them. Its difficult to find something dropped on the floor smaller than a beer cap. I'm thinking of using Sharkgrip instead.
I have to think the flakes serve a purpose other than nonskid. What might that be?
Exactly, the urethane helps greatly to protect the floor. We have small particle size non skid to mix in that isn't gritty.
Flecks add non skid texture and also visually break up the floor so it's not so monolithic, and also hides imperfections in the floor. But.. they do make it difficult to find parts!
Flecks add non skid texture and also visually break up the floor so it's not so monolithic, and also hides imperfections in the floor. But.. they do make it difficult to find parts!
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Never rely upon flakes for COF. That is a mistake. Once they are sealed any value they offer for anti-skid is gone and if not sealed they will wear away over time, leaving you unprotected.
Epoxies are STAIN and CHEMICAL resistant.
Urethanes have a much higher molecular lock, that is why they are MORE chem/wear resistant than epoxies. They make epoxy (already a good product) better.
Epoxies are STAIN and CHEMICAL resistant.
Urethanes have a much higher molecular lock, that is why they are MORE chem/wear resistant than epoxies. They make epoxy (already a good product) better.
Radix2
Well-known member
I was under the impression that one of the main drivers of topcoating epoxy was UV protection, but neither of you mentioned that?
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Great question. It offers no UV protection to the epoxy. It acts like a window allowing the light to hit the floor.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Lelandwelds
Well-known member
Clear urethane doesnt filter UV? ****! Some clear things are opaque to some wavelengths of light.
I suppose gray urethane stops UV? Will clear urethane top coat gray urethane on top of gray epoxy on top of primer? ( That sounds like a silly amount of effort just for some sprinkles.)
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That is exactly how an airplane hangar or race shop system is done.
Primer, Epoxy, Pigmented Urethane, Clear Urethane.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Primer, Epoxy, Pigmented Urethane, Clear Urethane.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Lelandwelds
Well-known member
I guess no sprinkles for me.
Any advantage or problem with a second coat of colored urethane?
Any advantage or problem with a second coat of colored urethane?
JStar4
Well-known member
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
No issue. Always end with a clear coat if this will have vehicle traffic. You can get tire marks without the clearcoat.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Premium08
Well-known member
This is true. Epoxy chalks out in no time from UV if not topcoated
Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
ard
Well-known member
Lelandwelds
Well-known member
Isn't quartz just a $5 word for sand?
Lelandwelds
Well-known member
Where do the thick "high build epoxy" fit in the schedule? Is a finish that is "x" times thicker actually "x" times better? If so, where does diminishing returns kick in?
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
''
Returns diminish when you put down more coating than you need.
Our HD Garage Kit is used by many with no complaints.
Newer floor or in good condition? Can't go wrong IMO.
Lelandwelds
Well-known member
I guess it is unfair to ask a couple of vendors to speak for a whole industry worth of products. Gotta get old answering endless variations of the same dozen questions. Over. And over. And over again.
Some vendors (not on here) talk about "100% solids high build epoxy" and "polyaspartic" as if you're crazy to do all this prep work and not spend an extra $300 here and $300 there.
I am not sure what a 30 mil floor gets you that a 9 mil doesnt. Just longer wear through if a lift ramp rubs in the exact same three inches? I used to spend time in an aircraft paint depot. They used chemical strips that would attack tennis shoes so bad you left rubber footprints. Their gray epoxy like flooring was not affected. That has a strong appeal. I'm after oil resistance and easy cleanup but I do use a tiny bit of MEK, acetone, triclorathane, xylene, and nitromethane. (I have less than a pint of each and doubt those projects if repeated will be done inside. ) I am far from casual with these and rarely use. I do have any appreciation for chemical resistance.
I think what I really want most is a coating that won't fall off and I wont have to **** with ever again. (Fourty years ago we put up a heavy gauge steel roof with the first of the industrial super paints on it. It still is rust free and hasnt appreciably faded or chalked. It was expensive and hard to get.) I don't think I am going to host dinner parties in the garage so I can show off my speckled floor. I'd rather it just quietly sat there never to be thought of or noticed.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Focus on the prep and less on the product.
30 mils without good prep is pi$$ing in the wind.
30 mils without good prep is pi$$ing in the wind.
JStar4
Well-known member
The mil thickness just gives you a more glass like surface. I poured my garage floor thick on both coats cause i like the look od that instead of seeing waves in my floor but i know ppl that prep good n just paint the stuff on and it gives them a really good surface. If you use metallics higher mil thickness is good as it gives your floor depth
Lelandwelds
Well-known member
Mine will be new concrete so focusing on prep is easy. Glassy finish? Like I care. I'm after easily cleanable and easily presentable so this can be a multipurpose space.
So "f___ it" and do like thousands of guys have done. Got it. Thanks .
So "f___ it" and do like thousands of guys have done. Got it. Thanks .